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Hello, I am looking for some help. I have a 2005 300C. I have purchased a Pioneer DEH-4400HD head unit, a PAC RP4-CH11 Chrysler Radio Replacement Interface (for keeping steering wheel controls), and the antennae adapter.

I need to know which wires to connect and which ones I will not use.
A little help goes a long ways, if you can help me I will greatly appreciate it.
 

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I just used the same PAC device to install my Clarion NX602. Can you list what wires you have in your Pioneer harness and I can probably tell you what you need and don't need.
 

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I just looked up your headunit on Pioneer's website... hard to tell for sure because their install instructions are confusing, but it looks like they list that the only wires you have are...

- all the speaker wires
- black = ground
- yellow = constant 12v
- red = ignition 12v
- blue/white = amp or antenna

Could that be right? If so, you won't be using a lot of the PAC wires.

As far as the speaker wires, just match those up to the harness... FL, FR, RL, RR... or however you are planning to run the speakers and/or amp. I do see that your unit has some specific instructions if you are trying to run a sub directly off of the headunit.

For your black = ground, you can actually connect it to BOTH of the black = ground wires on the PAC harness.

For your yellow = constant 12v, connect to the yellow = Battery +12V on the PAC

For your red = ignition switch 12v, connect to the red = ACC Output on the PAC

For your blue/white = amp or antenna, I'm pretty sure you need to connect that to the blue/white = amp turn on input on the PAC. Reason I say that is because when I talked to PAC, I told the guy that I am running an aftermarket amp off of the headunit and not using the stock amp - but he told me the harness still needs the amp turn on lead regardless. So I split that line to the PAC harness and to my aftermarket amp.

Other than that, you won't be using any of the other harness wires, if I'm understanding your setup correctly. You did mention steering wheel controls - for that you need to use a small screwdriver and turn the little dial on the blue steering wheel control device to "7" - which is for Pioneer... controls come preloaded so you won't need to program them as long as you set the dial. Then you just plug the steering wheel control device into the harness and the other side has a 3.5mm jack to plug into your Pioneer. You won't use that blue/yellow wire on the steering wheel control device.

The other wires on the PAC you apparently won't be using because you don't have the options... Vehicle Speed Sensor, Parking Brake, Reverse Output = that's all stuff for in car video, back up camera, etc. It is strange you don't have an orange/white illumination wire I think.

Hope this helps!
 
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hey thanks, that is the kind of answer I was looking for. Except now one more question....I have an additional aftermarket amplifier and sub I am PLanning on running in my trunk. The remote wire from the amp used for the sub is supposed to tie into which other wire....?
 

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I have 2 yellow wires left on the PAC and 1 red and 1 yellow left coming from the head unit. I do not know what other red wire there is to attach to...
 

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hey thanks, that is the kind of answer I was looking for. Except now one more question....I have an additional aftermarket amplifier and sub I am PLanning on running in my trunk. The remote wire from the amp used for the sub is supposed to tie into which other wire....?
Well, like I said above, I used the blue/white remote wire from my headunit and split it = one part going to the blue/white wire from the PAC harness and then another running back to the remote turn on for the aftermarket amp. I'll save you the confusion why I did that, and just tell you that it is much easier to run a wire from the fuse box in your trunk to the remote turn on for your amp. Fuse 18 (and I think fuse 35) are only hot upon ignition, so they will work fine for your amp's remote turn on if you want.
I have 2 yellow wires left on the PAC and 1 red and 1 yellow left coming from the head unit. I do not know what other red wire there is to attach to...
I only used one of the yellow wires on the PAC. PAC told me I don't need the other one, so I capped it off.

But you say you have a red and yellow wire left from the headunit - I assumed that you only had 1 red and 1 yellow in total coming from the headunit... am I wrong? If you only have one set of red and yellow wires, they just hook up to the same color on the PAC. If you have two sets of red and yellow wires coming from the headunit, then I'm not sure what the second set would be for. From the manual, it looks like there is only one set.
 
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there is only 1 yellow and 1 red coming from the headunit. The PAC has 2 yellows and no red.

I plugged it in by connecting 1 yellow to a yellow and the red to the other yellow. the headunit turned on before the car was turned on...
 

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there is only 1 yellow and 1 red coming from the headunit. The PAC has 2 yellows and no red.

I plugged it in by connecting 1 yellow to a yellow and the red to the other yellow. the headunit turned on before the car was turned on...
The RP4-CH11 definitely has a red wire for 12V ACC output. That's an essential wire in any harness. There is also a red/white wire with this harness, so don't mix that up - but that one is for the parking brake and you really only would use that if you are hooking up in-motion stuff.

Here is the install manual from PAC, it shows all the wires: http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/RP4-CH11/1_Instructions/rp4-ch11_instructions_112811.pdf

You sure you have a RP4-CH11? If it's missing a wire, call PAC. They have great customer service... and tech help!! ;)

And don't hook up your headunit the way you described. Both the yellow and red are simply 12v power wires. The difference is that the yellow is ALWAYS on, and the red is ONLY on when the ignition is on. Basically, the yellow keeps enough power to retain your stereo settings, etc. If you hook up the red from the headunit to the the yellow, then your headunit is going to think the car is ALWAYS on... as you noticed. :) Good way to drain a battery.

Just hook the yellow to the yellow, and cap off the second yellow from the harness. And that red wire should be hooked to the red wire in the harness... and there should be a red wire in the harness!!! :) Got a pic?
 
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I have figured it out. Thanks a lot for the help. It seems to be a lot easier than I figured it to be haha. My sound is amazingly better, thank you again!
 

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I could use help with my subwoofer now. Remote wire is working correctly, it is connected to fuse box in rear.. The RCA's are connnected to the rear of my pioneeer head unit. The Ground from my aftermarket apline 850 amp is connected to the same bolt as my ground from my battery is connected to. And the positive from the amp is connected directly to the positive post on the main battery.

The subwoofer makes a humming static noise when turned down low and even continues to make the noise after I turn the subwoofer to off on the headunit. No fuses are blown, all connections are tight and secure. amp turns on/off along with ignition. door and reardeck speakers work correctly. subwoofer is wired correctly to amp.
 

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I have figured it out. Thanks a lot for the help. It seems to be a lot easier than I figured it to be haha. My sound is amazingly better, thank you again!
Good to hear. Happy to help man. :fing02:
I could use help with my subwoofer now. Remote wire is working correctly, it is connected to fuse box in rear.. The RCA's are connnected to the rear of my pioneeer head unit. The Ground from my aftermarket apline 850 amp is connected to the same bolt as my ground from my battery is connected to. And the positive from the amp is connected directly to the positive post on the main battery.

The subwoofer makes a humming static noise when turned down low and even continues to make the noise after I turn the subwoofer to off on the headunit. No fuses are blown, all connections are tight and secure. amp turns on/off along with ignition. door and reardeck speakers work correctly. subwoofer is wired correctly to amp.
Sounds like interference with RCA's or a ground loop/bad ground. Make sure you aren't running your RCA's near your power cables or the factory power cables. That will certainly give a humming noise if that signal cable is picking up interference from the power cable.

And as far as the ground, if your ground cable is running back to the battery ground post anyways, you may want to think about just grounding it directly to the battery - which is what it is doing anyways, just through that bolt. You could add a terminal to the battery post... here's what I did...

 
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