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2017 Chrysler 300c
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So, I did a thing.... I replaced my "Alpine" 6 speakers with JBL club speakers in my 2017 300c. I use quotes on Alpine because I seriously doubt the factory speakers have any relation to Alpine. They are exactly the same part numbers as the "Beats" system speakers in the same locations. I'd be fairly confident that any non-branded systems use the same speakers too (without the amp though).

Changing the speakers was probably the hardest speaker swap I've ever done in any car (not that I've done that many). The rears were by far the worst since I had to remove the rear sunshade. Thanks to posts on this forum with instructions and pictures, or I would definitely have broken something. Further, Due to JBL's "plus one" sized speakers, the mounting holes are smaller and didn't exactly line up with the factory mounting holes in either the doors or the rear deck. I managed to make them both work by using the screws that came with the speakers to hold them in the front doors - drilling out the back side of the plastic screw holes in the door mounting bracket. The rears were worse and I ended up reusing the factory screws and just angling them and cross threading them to get all four in each speaker.

Originally, I just swapped the front four and didn't get the back two until a week later. When I first swapped the fronts, it sounded AWFUL. I had checked, double checked, and triple checked to make sure that the wires listed as positive went to the positive terminal on the new speakers and the wires listed as negative went to the negative terminal. I used both the Crutchfield sheets for wire colors and googled for factory wiring diagrams. I ended up putting a battery to the terminals on the factory speakers to verify which terminal was actually positive. Turns out, the wire colors are backwards on the crutchfield sheet and the online diagrams OR Mopar has wired all the speakers with reversed polarity. I then went back to the car and checked a fourth time to confirm. I ended up swapping the pins in the harnesses so the positive on the new speaker went to the same wire as the positive on the old speaker (the negative based on the wiring colors). It sounded a lot better after that - though not perfect. Turns out the front 4 speakers really aren't too bad from the factory. Better is a subjective term, so while I think the JBL's sound "better", it's not perfect...

It will take a bit to get used to, but the new JBL 3.5" dash speakers (322f) have a "bite" in the 4k-6k range. It's not horrendous, but does make some music a bit "harsh" sounding at times. Still, it's an overall improvement compared to the factory Mopar speakers that pretend to be Alpines. Although I will note that podcasts sound fantastic on the new speakers. That presence boost in the 4-6k range really makes spoken voices crystal clear.

The rears are a different story. The factory speakers sounded downright awful. I measured them and they start rolling off heavily above 8k and are non-existent above 12k. The new JBLs (9632) are much more flat and don't start dropping too much until 15-16k. Simply swapping the rears has made the back come alive and the whole car sounds more full and vibrant. It also helps to "soften" the bite from the fronts by having them swapped since I can run the overall volume a bit lower.

That's another thing, the new speakers all around are a bit louder than the factory so I can cut the volume on the factory head unit back a couple notches for the same volume/SPL level.

Overall, I'm satisfied. Though I'm wondering if that presence bite is coming in from some custom EQ in the factory amp. However, my limited research of that has led me to "AlfaOBD" as a possible solution, but I still have a long way to go to understand how that all works or even what the different factory EQ options actually do to know which one I'd need to switch to... assuming I even want to go that far.

I have attached some measurement traces that I took for each of the fronts and rears, before and after the speaker swap. One note, I also have an Infinity 12" sub in the trunk pulling its signal from the rears, so ignore the large bump in the below 100Hz range of the two rear speaker traces. I really need to adjust that amp and lower the volume level. Also, ignore the SPL levels on the left. I didn't bother to tune REW and my mic inputs to accurate SPL levels. I just wanted the frequency traces. The front traces were from each of the two front speakers, measured individually with the audio faded all the way forward and to each side. The two separate speaker traces were then averaged and smoothed to 1/12 octave for what is shown here. Same for the rears... the two separate speaker measurements were averaged for what I posted here. In case it matters, I used an Audix TM-1 microphone into a Focusrite USB 2i4 interface to capture the sound for REW. The microphone was placed just in front of the driver's headrest for all measurements.

Also, I'm aware that the front door speakers are low passed, but a second pair of 9632's is a lot cheaper than special component woofers. With the low pass on them, and my sub in the trunk, I really didn't care to spend anything more on the speakers for the doors.

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