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Meister said:
Well, 330toSRT8, with those numbers stamped in her, we know she's a fit and in the proper heat range.

Does the center orfice appear fairly large? The ones with the smaller center holes truly look small, disproportionately so.

If so you should be good to go.

I'll try to get by NAPA later today and see if I can track one down, as well as the 191, and get some pictures.

Thanks much for the info. Pls. let us know where EVIC shows her to be opening.
This new thermostat looks very similar to the NAPA 191. It has a relatively small inner diameter compared to stock. I do not have the fan mod so I had to use the 100% free fan mod, i.e. turning on the AC compressor, which only activates the lower fan on low! :naughty:
Ambient temp: 64 degrees.
After installing the new tstat I let the car warm up to 217 then turned on the AC. After approx. ten minutes the temp was down to 190. Cruising on the freeway at 70MPH it was 185-186 with AC on and 185 with AC off. At low speeds it was 186-190, but it would rise rapidly if I floored it. BTW, cost was $8.

One more thing. The 13mm socket was loose on my bolts. A 1/2" worked much better to avoid stripping the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
330toSRT8 said:
Update regarding the Weir-Stat II (Standard-Thomson):
I did the 25 cent fan mod with both fans on high and the temp stabilized at 185 on the highway and surface streets. A couple times it briefly hit 183.
Good info, 330toSRT8, thanks.

And our juiced Moose ;) is right - it's 114 degrees f on my side of town and even with flipping the radiator fan on just after engine start the in-town coolant temp soon exceeds 200 degrees.

But that sure beats the 230s.
 

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Meister said:
Good info, 330toSRT8, thanks.

And our juiced Moose ;) is right - it's 114 degrees f on my side of town and even with flipping the radiator fan on just after engine start the in-town coolant temp soon exceeds 200 degrees.

But that sure beats the 230s.
Well, we just had a heat wave over here in Monterey. Yesterday it got up to 75 and I had to take off my jacket! :wall: Seriously, I know what it's like since I lived in Tucson for 22 years.
Meister, when you say you turn on the radiator fan and it still exceeds 200, is that on high or low? And is the other fan?
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
330toSRT8 said:
Well, we just had a heat wave over here in Monterey. Yesterday it got up to 75 and I had to take off my jacket! :wall: Seriously, I know what it's like since I lived in Tucson for 22 years.
Meister, when you say you turn on the radiator fan and it still exceeds 200, is that on high or low? And is the other fan?
The larger of the two fans, 330toSRT8, is the "radiator fan", the smaller of the two fans is the "A/C fan".

The simple manual fan mod (the "$.25 fan mod"), and the GSM fan mod both command the radiator fan to maximum speed.
 

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New test results

I decided to do the fan mod that nCHARGE posted on the Chargerforums here:
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=243842&postcount=11
It is much easier than Jim Turner's mod and it turns on the fans the same as the GSM mod and is easily removed. I just used a mini add-a-circuit to get the power lead to the relay. Within 10 seconds I can remove all the wiring except for one ground wire that runs from the engine compartment to under my dash for the switch.

And then my 170 Prestone thermostat came in that I ordered since Meister highly recommended it. Now my car settles around 177-179 and will rise up to 186 if I floor it a few times. The major difference with this tstat over the Napa HD 180 is how quickly the temp will get back to normal. After hitting 186, it will get back to 177-179 in a matter of seconds (like less than 10). I think the larger inner diameter really helps. With the Napa HD 180 the normal temp was 185-186 and it would rise into the 190s but would take a minute to get back to 185. The Prestone 170 is fantastic!
Meister, thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
330toSRT8 said:
I decided to do the fan mod that nCHARGE posted on the Chargerforums here:
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=243842&postcount=11
It is much easier than Jim Turner's mod and it turns on the fans the same as the GSM mod and is easily removed. I just used a mini add-a-circuit to get the power lead to the relay. Within 10 seconds I can remove all the wiring except for one ground wire that runs from the engine compartment to under my dash for the switch.

And then my 170 Prestone thermostat came in that I ordered since Meister highly recommended it. Now my car settles around 177-179 and will rise up to 186 if I floor it a few times. The major difference with this tstat over the Napa HD 180 is how quickly the temp will get back to normal. After hitting 186, it will get back to 177-179 in a matter of seconds (like less than 10). I think the larger inner diameter really helps. With the Napa HD 180 the normal temp was 185-186 and it would rise into the 190s but would take a minute to get back to 185. The Prestone 170 is fantastic!
Meister, thanks for your help.
Thank you for that very thorough write up on the simple fan mod and the effectiveness of the Prestone 170-degree tstat, 330toSRT8.

How long would you say the fan mod took you to install?
 

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Meister said:
Thank you for that very thorough write up on the simple fan mod and the effectiveness of the Prestone 170-degree tstat, 330toSRT8.

How long would you say the fan mod took you to install?
With all the parts in hand it should take less than one hour. Here is the schematic from nCHARGE that I used. I added a few comments to the image. This install requires several male and female disconnects for the connections. The sheetmetal tab already has a 1/8" hole but will need to be enlarged to approx. 1/2" for most switches. The strip panel on the driver side doorway can be easily removed by pulling it (it is held by 2 tangs). Then remove the large panel under the steering wheel by removing the two screws and gently pulling (it is held by about 4 tangs). Removing these two pieces allows good access to route the switch wire and you can remove the entire piece of sheetmetal for easier drilling (held on my 4 bolts). Jim Turner's Fan Mod instructions contains photos of what I describe.

Here is the schematic:


And here's what my fusebox looks like. You can see there is only one wire entering the box and the box closes with no problem when the wire is positioned on the metal tab.


Here is the switch above the gas pedal area:
 

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I ordered my Robert Shaw thermostat today and they said it should be in tomorrow evening, now time to get a handle on this fan mod:naughty:

My wife's eyes are already rolling - she'll be allright though:biggrin:

Eric
 

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The oil temperature is considerably cooler now that my engine is running around 180. Before the mod I saw the oil temp get up to 250 up in hot Napa Valley. Yesterday I did about six 0-60 runs back-to-back and the oil temp reached 213 with the engine temp 177-181 at the beginning of each run. Then I turned off the fan mod and did several more runs. The engine temp reached 221 and the oil temp got up to 234.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
330toSRT8 said:
The oil temperature is considerably cooler now that my engine is running around 180. Before the mod I saw the oil temp get up to 250 up in hot Napa Valley. Yesterday I did about six 0-60 runs back-to-back and the oil temp reached 213 with the engine temp 177-181 at the beginning of each run. Then I turned off the fan mod and did several more runs. The engine temp reached 221 and the oil temp got up to 234.
The entire car benefits from the reduction in coolant temp, 330toSRT8. Thanks for sharing you observation.

Now to get serious about getting a pillar gauge mount and installing an oil temp gauge and a tranny temp gauge.
 

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Was just on the Advance Auto Parts online store and I typed in 383170 into their search box. This is what it returned: Fram 383-170 STANDARD THERMOSTAT
Part Number: 383170
Is this the same as the Prestone 383-170?
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 · (Edited)
Driven2WIN said:
Was just on the Advance Auto Parts online store and I typed in 383170 into their search box. This is what it returned: Fram 383-170 STANDARD THERMOSTAT
Part Number: 383170
Is this the same as the Prestone 383-170?
I'm looking at that right now, Driven. They show no specs, but based on the premium price and the exact parts number I'd say it's highly likely that you have found the Robert Shaw unit.

Still uneasy? You could try calling them at 1-877-808-0698 and seeing if they can verify manufacturer as Robert Shaw, Germany. Or if they can verify the atypical 63.5mm diameter. Also, the heat range is a nominal 170 (actual 176 degrees or so).

Or simply order it. It will have 63.5mm clearly stamped on it if it's the Robert Shaw unit. If it's the wrong item (not likely) return it.

Or wait for me to receive mine. I just now placed an order so that I can verify it for you.

Edit: Several days later I received an email stating that the tstat was not available. So the order option is presently, at least, unavailable.

Are there no AutoZones near you, Driven? They're much less costly there plus you don't pay shipping. Post #1 describes how to special order this tstat from them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·

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Meister said:
At the same time, the cooler the thermostat (I'd again make the cut off 176 degrees) the more likely one is to encounter a P0128 code and and a check engine light (CEL) at least once while Adaptive Learning is getting acquanted with the new, cooler, tstat. A quick pull of fuse 11 for a half minute clears the clutter and speeds the process of getting to the point where no more codes are generated.
I got my first code this weekend. Started her up and drove to San Francisco in the morning and 5-10 minutes after leaving I got the engine light. Pulled fuse #11 and it went away. I guess I should search for the procedure to determine what particular code it is.
 

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Meister said:
It makes no sense to spend $30 for this thermostat when you can get it locally at any AutoZone for $12.

(Special order item - 2 to 3 days, no extra charge.)
I caved in today as I went to two more store yesteday and argued with the managers...

I ordered online at the link above. I ordered online once before and after a week I got an email saying they discontinued the item. We'll see this time. With the time I personally have spent trying to get this tstat, I could have just built one, lol. Everyone else seems to be able to just walk in a store and pick up a six pack of them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 · (Edited)
Note my edit to post #134: Received an email back from the online store that the tstat is not available from them.

330toSRT8 said:
I got my first code this weekend. Started her up and drove to San Francisco in the morning and 5-10 minutes after leaving I got the engine light. Pulled fuse #11 and it went away. I guess I should search for the procedure to determine what particular code it is.
It's just about guaranteed, 330toSRT8, that you received the code which signifies that the PCM didn't see the coolant temp that it expected to see during a drive cycle. If, either through early manual activation of a fan mod, or a near-immediate entry onto a highway on a cool day, coolant temp doesn't reach 180 degrees for a short while it will throw this code.

Treated just as you did, with a brief removal of fuse 11, both the CEL and the code will be cleared. Adaptive learning makes it less likely that you'll encounter another one.

Moose said:
I caved in today as I went to two more store yesteday and argued with the managers...

I ordered online at the link above. I ordered online once before and after a week I got an email saying they discontinued the item. We'll see this time. With the time I personally have spent trying to get this tstat, I could have just built one, lol. Everyone else seems to be able to just walk in a store and pick up a six pack of them...
Moose, ol' buddy, I can't believe what a drill this has been for you. Based on my recent experience, you've probably already received your Dear John letter from the online supplier stating that you are, once again, hosed.

I've placed a 383-170, new (but tested by me for a day to insure perfection) in box, in my trunk with your name on it. When we meet up at the drags soon, it's yours.
 

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I just picked up the 383-170 Tstat that I special ordered from AutoZone. Got it in three days. The Tstat cost 12.99 plus tax.

The box that it came in says CST on it and has the number 4127 and "made in Germany". On the Tstat it has the words "MotoRad" and "Germany". It appears to have a small back-pressure valve on it. I have not found anywhere that it has 63.5mm stamped into it.

I will install it tomorrow morning.
 
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