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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2010 300c, I bought this car and have had nothing but issues. Drove it ten minutes alternator pooped the bed (or I thought).

Dropped a new alternator and battery in it, the starter went. Replaced that. Now I'm having the same issue. The alternator is not charging the battery. Or so it appears.

This time I am able to jump it but it and run it. Will shutoff when running when the battery dies. I don't get a warning battery light or a light stating the alternator isn't doing its job. I did make sure the alternator was in correctly along with the serpentine belt. Could it be a bad ground or maybe pcm? I have had this thing 4 months now and literally have driven it tops an hour. I'm getting frustrated ( not as much as my wife). I need to figure this out so I can have fun and stop wasting money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also when I test drove it ( private sale) buddy had a jump pack on the battery. Then 4 hours later he drops it off on a flatbed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did check that all wires were reconnected. I'm going to chase the line today to have a better look.
 

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With engine stopped, EVIC will show battery voltage. Fully charged battery with light load should be 12.6 V.
Cranking voltage will drop to about 10 V.

Have you checked for DTCs (fault codes)? There are a couple relating to battery/alternator performance and these can be set if faults are intermittent.
 

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I'm not getting any codes at all with a reader.

Could I just run a power wire to the positive jump post instead of chasing the power wire back to rule out If that's the problem?
 

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Have you tried checking voltage output on EVIC? Should see 14.5 V with engine running.
Did you try this?
I'm not getting any codes at all with a reader.
What code reader did you use? I would have thought P065A (Generator Performance) would have been set and your battery warning lamp permanently illuminated.
Could I just run a power wire to the positive jump post instead of chasing the power wire back to rule out If that's the problem?
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I wouldn't recommend connecting any new wiring.
 

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Did you try this?

What code reader did you use? I would have thought P065A (Generator Performance) would have been set and your battery warning lamp permanently illuminated.
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I wouldn't recommend connecting any new wiring.
I concur exactly with all of the above.

This is strange that there is no warning lights on.

But a car battery almost flat will run a car, (for a while) but not charge it. That is the likely explanation for what is happening above. Battery is half flat. Enough to light dash lights, little else. You jump car. That puts a bit into battery for the short time it is on there. Jump battery starts car. Car runs on what little is in battery for a while, then dies. You bring home, do again, small charge put in while connected when jumped runs car for short time = cycle repeated.

But going any further/changing anything else without checking alternator output is just a complete waste of time. As said above, use the EVIC readouts. (I assume most on here know how to bring that up, but finger on "music" button and "compass" button at same time for ten seconds = open EVIC displays.) Then cycle to display that shows voltage.

Should be anywhere from 12 to 12.6 volts, depending on state of charge. Start car. Should jump to approx 14 volts. If it doesn't, alternator either isn't working; or there is a break somewhere in it's line.

If it DOES show 14 volts on EVIC - take a multimeter and place it on the battery terminals. (Not the lugs, on the terminals). If 14 volts THERE; battery is being charged. If NOT - then you have a break/high resistance joint between the alternator and the battery.

Move meter to the battery lead lugs. If that is 14 volts = bad joint, power getting to the leads, NOT to the terminals; so then move the meter to one on pos lug, one on neg terminal/then try the inverse. Whichever one shows the lower reading, THAT is the dirty joint.

If the lugs show same as battery (14 volts approx while running); then the problem is further away, ie problem with heavy lead from Neg to body or Neg to engine block for starter. Could also be bad joint between alternator and block (HIGHLY unlikely, as would need a lot of corrosion); or could be problem with main pos feed to front of car.

But progressive checks at battery and then further "fanning out" should find it.

But BEFORE doing all that; you MUST check 12 volt level with key on/engine off, and then watch it jump to 14 volts once started. Use EVIC.

Not doing that = you have no idea what is going on, and pointless speculating further..
 
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