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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I've been experiencing a slight warble/wobble in the steering wheel. It's mostly nonexistent when driving in a straight line, but on a smooth road at about 45mph it lightly wobbles when I turn the wheel gently either direction. I bought the car new and it started out undetectable but after several thousand miles it was annoying. The dealer blamed road force and RF balanced all four wheels. This fixed another vibration in the car and greatly improved, but did not eliminate the warble feedback.

I changed to new snow tires for winter and the warble was gone, but is now coming back after a few thousand miles and I'm getting a warble tone from one of the front tires as well. Dealer says everything is in spec, including alignment, but there must be something wrong that's causing the tires to wear-in over time. I'm thinking it's probably the same thing that causes the feedback in the wheel and the snow tires are just sucking up most of the feedback at the moment since they're so soft. Could this be a hub slightly out of round? Bad ball joint or stabilizer?

Any feedback would be awesome as this is one of two issues annoying me with this car and the dealer doesn't really feel it.

thanks!
 

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Ball Joint or Stabilizers would be my first pick. But you'd notice them even with brand new tires.

Actually the RF balance thing would be the thing to check here...
 

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something to keep in mind is the gen 11 car sufffers from similar problems in the suspension depart as the gen 1 car at least according to razors edge suspension and they make the factory rear strut bar brace so I am inclind to believe what he says. Had a long conversaion with him regarding the suspension and chassis stiffness etc and he has been to Chrysler engineering and done testing on various parts of the chassis and suspension.
 

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I had a situation a couple years ago where the RF Bal tech just did not get it right. Anyway, another tech had a crack at it and "bingo" problem solved.

Can't say if this is your problem but training of a RFB tech is important, more so than with the usual machine.

If you are using the same wheel on both the snows and Summer tires you could have a bent wheel. The tech has to remember to check for that as a regular part of the set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All,

Thanks for the comments. I'll answer your questions more or less in order:

RF was done on both sets of tires, at different shops. The shop that did the current set (snows) has been doing road force for me on all my cars for years and I trust them. Current RF numbers RF, PF, RR, PR are 9,10,16,12 lb-f, respectively. Even the 16 isn't high for SUV snows so I think were good there.

Tire size is stock 225-60/18, both cases and stock, running on same stock rims.

Car is RWD.

12,000 miles on car, 8,000 on original Firestones, 4,000 on Yokohama Ice Guards.

I don't think that it's the snow tires as the issue actually improved with them. Moreover I've driven more than 150,000 miles on snows and this would be a new experience.

I hear you on the RF tech thing and it's possible that two attempts didn't get it right, but it's coming back and two shops had a crack at two sets of tires. Wheels are the same, but were very likely re-ordered on the car. I didn't mark them, but the RF machine suggests placement so it's pretty likely that you won't get them on the same corner unless those are your instructions or the wheels are staggered and neither was the case.

Wheel could be bent, I suppose, but it would have had to come from the factory that way as I haven't hit anything serious and have never otherwise bent a wheel myself. This same shop has found bent wheels I've purchased before and in most cases bent rims produce higher RF values than these, or at least higher than the 9-12 readings.

I think I'm going to put the car up and start checking the rims and then hubs for runout. I hate to do this in the winter though as my garage is filthy from the snow and road grime.

Any more ideas, keep 'em coming!

Thanks guys.
 
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