Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 51 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, I've had the car like 2 weeks. A couple of days ago driving to work the battery light came on (and "chimed") about twice. Enough to freak me a little. Drove the rest of the way in with the heater and stereo off.

Coming home tonight it did it again. Lots. The light comes on, then is on about 3 or 4 sec and goes off again. Then 30 seconds later its on again.

Thoughts?

I'm suspecting its the battery or the alternator.

Is this a "known fault"

What does the battery light actually signify?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,083 Posts
OK, I've had the car like 2 weeks. A couple of days ago driving to work the battery light came on (and "chimed") about twice. Enough to freak me a little. Drove the rest of the way in with the heater and stereo off.

Coming home tonight it did it again. Lots. The light comes on, then is on about 3 or 4 sec and goes off again. Then 30 seconds later its on again.

Thoughts?

I'm suspecting its the battery or the alternator.

Is this a "known fault"

What does the battery light actually signify?
Hi,

As you suspect: Battery light indicates that the Alternator is failing to charge the battery for some reason.

Could possibly be a bad connection or rarely a battery fault but the most likely cause is a failing alternator.
On the 300C the alternator is sited directly below the engine oil filler hole and if the engine is filled carelessly oil can run down onto the alternator, get into the brush assy. and the alternator then fails. There are also two diesel fuel pies in the alternator area and they are also prone to leak and sometimes spray the alternator causing premature failure.
An (add on Chrysler modification) alternator plastic clip on shield was made for the top of the alternator to try and prevent spilled engine oil getting into the alternator. If you have a look from the top of the engine down onto the alternator (LH side when stood at the front of the engine facing the windscreen), if you can clearly see the alternator casing, the plastic cover mod has not been fitted. (If the cover has been fitted you will just see a black plastic clip on cover).

Hope you have some form of guarantee. However if you bought it from a garage they should repair it for you anyway after such a short period. Alternators and fitting is very expensive for the 300C .

Hope it goes OK for you.
Don't ignore the warning light though. It is advising you of a problem that needs sorting.

Jack
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,945 Posts
If I was to hazard a guess, I say you have a problem with alternator. If its oem battery throw in some tablets to aid the battery, whilst you sort the problem :yup:
 

·
Currently Away From 300C Forum
Joined
·
19,574 Posts
Before you start testing alternators and such, make sure your battery main connections are tight, clean and not corroded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
In my opinion its 99.9% alternator failure.

same happened to mine and i ignored it....for a week or two then it failed altogether.

the copper slip rings wear down to nothing and rip the brushes to powder which gets damp and clogs the brush carrier

new alternator around £300 to £400 plus labour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,619 Posts
You can check the alternator volts using the "hidden menu". Press the music and compass buttons simultaneously for several seconds until the hidden menu appears on the instrument panel. You can then monitor the alternator output; should be around 14.5V to 14.9V. One possible cause for an erratic reading is a slipping/worn drive belt and/or a faulty tensioner. Do you know if the belt has been renewed? Should be at 5yrs/62,500 miles. If the belt is the problem this will be an easier fix than the alternator. Another sign of a slipping belt is variation in power steering force, which will be further exacerbated if you switch the A/C on, as the belt has to drive all these pulleys.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,945 Posts
Takes about 5 or 6 seconds & the hidden menu pops up. May take a couple of tries though because both button need to be pressed at the same time as above ^^^
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks chaps, it does have a basic warranty with it which hopefully should cover it. I'll check the charge voltage using the menu option, I assumed you'd be able to find that info somewhere.

Typically I need the car over the weekend and I'm going to be driving round worrying about this now :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm popping the battery on charge, it seemed a little low. Will monitor the situation over the weekend. Annoyingly I couldn't find my digital multimeter so couldn't check the sitting voltage on the battery this morning.

I'm in Nottingham.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,753 Posts
My money is on the alternator. If you bought it from a garage they have a responsibility to fix it as its within 3 mths of you purchasing it whether you have a warranty or not (sales of goods act).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
You can check the alternator volts using the "hidden menu". Press the music and compass buttons simultaneously for several seconds until the hidden menu appears on the instrument panel. You can then monitor the alternator output; should be around 14.5V to 14.9V. One possible cause for an erratic reading is a slipping/worn drive belt and/or a faulty tensioner. Do you know if the belt has been renewed? Should be at 5yrs/62,500 miles. If the belt is the problem this will be an easier fix than the alternator. Another sign of a slipping belt is variation in power steering force, which will be further exacerbated if you switch the A/C on, as the belt has to drive all these pulleys.
I've had problems like this that were caused by sticking brushes in the alternator. WD40 - or a sharp tap with a mallet - would cure it for a short while...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
654 Posts
I'm popping the battery on charge, it seemed a little low. Will monitor the situation over the weekend. Annoyingly I couldn't find my digital multimeter so couldn't check the sitting voltage on the battery this morning.

I'm in Nottingham.
Don't let the battery go flat! The alarm has its own internal power supply and mine went off when the car battery went flat. You can't turn the alarm off, because the car has no power to receive remote commands. It resets after a while, then starts all over again when presumably there's a glimmer of power from the car battery again. Of course this all happens in the middle of the night when temperatures are at their lowest and embarassment is at a maximum.

And with no battery power, you'll have to use the "proper" key to get into the car (via the passenger door, as that's the driver's door across the pond and the only one with a keyhole!), open the bonnet, and connect a spare battery to the terminals under the bonnet to get some power to open the boot.. to replace the battery!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Blimey, I'm well warned. Its stuff like this makes me want to go back to driving a Cortina....

I have put the diagnostic with the voltage display on and for the most part it reads 15.0V (with the lights off) and coming home 14.8V (headlights lights on).

Occasionally the voltage drops to 11.8V and the dash illumination goes dim at which point I turn off the stereo, HVAC, anything else and only once I got the actual warning light on. Then after a little it works its way back up to 14.8V again.

I know garages well enough that I'll take time off work, go take the car in, come back, be told there was nothing wrong and nothing will have been done and it will continue until we get a full on "failure to proceed".

Pah.

This is risking spoiling my enjoyment of an otherwise great car.

I will phone them tomorrow and see what they say but with the odd fluctuations and higher than I would expect charging voltage I suspect its the regulator in the alternator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
(clipped) I suspect its the regulator in the alternator. (clipped)


sorry, there is no regulator in the alternator as the system is 'smart charge'.

the voltage/current regulation is controlled by the ECU or whatever Chrysler call it.

the ECU decides how much voltage to send to the alternators field/exciter coils to increase or decrease current produced
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,083 Posts
Blimey, I'm well warned. Its stuff like this makes me want to go back to driving a Cortina....

I have put the diagnostic with the voltage display on and for the most part it reads 15.0V (with the lights off) and coming home 14.8V (headlights lights on).

Occasionally the voltage drops to 11.8V and the dash illumination goes dim at which point I turn off the stereo, HVAC, anything else and only once I got the actual warning light on. Then after a little it works its way back up to 14.8V again.

I know garages well enough that I'll take time off work, go take the car in, come back, be told there was nothing wrong and nothing will have been done and it will continue until we get a full on "failure to proceed".

Pah.

This is risking spoiling my enjoyment of an otherwise great car.

I will phone them tomorrow and see what they say but with the odd fluctuations and higher than I would expect charging voltage I suspect its the regulator in the alternator.

Charging voltage is about right (Poss a bit high) should be 14.7V, but 15V will not cause serious problems.
Don't think regulator will be faulty. Brushes and slip-rings have given many problems though.

There should be some error codes recorded with the warning light coming on. This should help you to get the garage to sort it without it failing completely.

Jack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Same thing happened to me last week, battery light on for a few days then failed altogether. Regulator had gone, there was oil in there probably from before I owned the car as the shroud was not fitted until I bought it. Cost me £160 all in to get someone to strip down the alternator, change the regulator and put it back.

Sent from my Evo 3D GSM using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Mine is same right now. I turn on in morning and get to the end of the road and slow and brake and the battery light comes on. I pull away and it goes off for the rest of the day.

HOWEVER - new Bosch battery last week, followed by gear box going in to limp mode, and. It waited until I was other side of channel coming of Le Shuttle. Got it back home and had codes read. Alternator came up on scan + glowplugs and other minor things like egr and dpf.

Went to a Chrysler specialist and he removed active and historical codes. Cleared gearbox issue but it came back again with 100 miles, and it played up all day. I could clear gearbox limp by turning of then back on, but it went into proper limp mode again next day.

Got to go back to specialist to check codes from his own fresh flash of them. I think I'll have an alternator and belt to hand.

He also dipped my gearbox oil which was in clean condition and not burnt out, also right level.

Had a battery check a few times. What iss annoying is I paid £80 for a new Bosch battery and there probably is nothing wrong with the Chrysler branded one I took out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,619 Posts
When my alternator failed, it went gradually. In the meantime, it failed to charge the battery completely and I replaced the battery first and then the alternator. However, Chrysler batteries have a typical life of 5 to 6 yrs, so if it was the original, it would have needed replacing soon, so that's one less problem out of the way.
 
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
Top