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Yeah my battery is probably original, just chasing the faults around in the form of cash.

What they say is right, " you don't own a car, it owns you." haha
 

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Voltage on start-up this morning was 11v but after a few minutes raised to 14.4-14.7 and fluctuated?

Now I am confused? 14.5 average is enough to keep everything ticketyboo, but why only on start-up is it terrible? No wonder my gearbox keeps going into limp mode?

Going to change tensioner and belt and then bite bullet if it continues and replace alternator.
 

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Voltage on start-up this morning was 11v but after a few minutes raised to 14.4-14.7 and fluctuated?
Start-up volts can be as low as 9 in cold weather, but shouldn't take "minutes" to recover to 14+ with engine running. As you have already had alternator warnings it looks as if the alternator is working intermittently and eventually the warning light will not extinguish. When this happened to me, I made sure the battery was fully charged, using an external charger and then drove post-haste to the garage to have the alternator replaced.
 

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Alternator, tensioner and belt ordered through brother-in-laws garage. £246 + VAT and I'll get my other brother in law to fit for a Hundy. If it isn't this I'll cry I am sure.
 

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Tell him it comes out from the top......I know this because......lol
 

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Tell him to remove all the gubbins from the front left of the engine and then you can get to the alternator,a couple of bolts from underneath and to the side (some plastic panels have to be removed for acess to the side) and it's up and out from the top but watch out for that air con pipe that's very close by......
 

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He knows how to do it from underside by dropping cross-member.

Wierd thing is the gearbox has been well behaved for a full two day since having codes cleared, starting to bum me out!

Well just can't wait to get to bottom of of this - in garage Monday
 

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NOOOOO,don't drop the crossmember and take it from underneath,you can damage ball joints and the like when you remove them to drop the subframe,it's way easier from the top and way quicker....trust me I know this because............lol
 

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^ agreed completely! Bad call on dropping the cross member.
 

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Hey guys I had a question. I'm having a major problem with my battery not charging. I already switched the alternator and bought a new battery and it still keeps discharging. I messed with the fuses. I also changed the light switch on the car. Any suggestions ? I would gladly appreciated it. It's on a 2006 Chrysler 300 v6 3.5.
 

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What volts have you got with the car running,if it's 14 odd then I would say it's your battery that's the problem,if it's reading 12 ish then the alternator is likely to be at fault even though you say you've changed it
 

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thanks for the feedback. I'm stuck tho cause there both good. i had just put the new alternator in and it didn't work so I took it out and got it tested and they said it was good. I really appreciate it guys
 

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Hey guys I had a question. I'm having a major problem with my battery not charging. I already switched the alternator and bought a new battery and it still keeps discharging. I messed with the fuses. I also changed the light switch on the car. Any suggestions ? I would gladly appreciated it. It's on a 2006 Chrysler 300 v6 3.5.
Is it definitely your battery NOT charging or is it that something is discharging your battery over a period of hours/days while it is stationary.

Measure charging current or as a minimum the charging voltage on the EVIC (Should be about 14.7V when charging). Then the Battery open circuit voltage just after being charged (By a charger, then by the Alternator, should be about 12.7Volts when fully charged.)

After that the current drawn from the battery could be measured just after the ignition switch is turned off (Should be very low at around 30m/A)

The ECU does play a part in the 300C charging circuit but I would be surprised if that's the problem. It needs a few basic checks to pinpoint the problem.
 

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Hey guys I had a question. I'm having a major problem with my battery not charging. I already switched the alternator and bought a new battery and it still keeps discharging. I messed with the fuses. I also changed the light switch on the car. Any suggestions ? I would gladly appreciated it. It's on a 2006 Chrysler 300 v6 3.5.
Is it definitely your battery NOT charging or is it that something is discharging your battery over a period of hours/days while it is stationary.

Measure charging current or as a minimum the charging voltage on the EVIC (Should be about 14.7V when charging). Then the Battery open circuit voltage just after being charged (By a charger, then by the Alternator, should be about 12.7Volts when fully charged.)

After that the current drawn from the battery could be measured just after the ignition switch is turned off (Should be very low at around 30m/A)

The ECU does play a part in the 300C charging circuit but I would be surprised if that's the problem. It needs a few basic checks to pinpoint the problem.





I just got the battery checked and they said it was good. But as soon as I plug it in and start the car. It starts loosing charge right away.
 

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As soon as I have the car running the battery starts loosing charge. It's at 12v but keeps dropping quickly. Now the abs light turned on and the lightining bolt logo turned on in the dashboard. I tried un plugging all the connections under the seats also to see maybe if there was a shortage somewhere and nothing. It won't keep the battery charged. It also does this clicking sound as soon as ur about to start the car I was thinking maybe it's loosing power with the ignition switch.
 
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