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There is a fused lead that gets the output of the alternator to the battery. It looks like an ordinary wire but actually acts as a fuse.

Its possible the cable has actually done its job and acted as a fuse because of a fault or past fault.
Just check the lead for continuity with an ohmmeter.

If your man is capable of testing an alternator to prove it works I would have thought he should be capable of pinpointing where the fault is.

The fault has to be traced and located while everything is connected to the car though. Its no good testing each item while not connected to the system.


Jack
 

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well I'm doing it myself. I had to take the alternator to auto zone to get it tested there and the battery also. Is there any chance u can post a picture of how the wire looks ?
 

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Sorry no pictures ^^^^^^^^^

There are 2 thick wires connected to the alternator. One goes from the Alternator to the Glow Plug Module, the other runs from the Alternator to the Starter Motor (Basically the Battery). I'm not sure where the join is but you need to check that the thick wire from the Alternator to the Starter/Battery has not fused.


Jack
 

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Have you tried connecting a multimeter directly to the battery terminals?

With the engine running you should see 13.7 to 14.7 volts with electrical accessories off and battery well charged. This will confirm that your alternator is connected to the battery.

With the engine stopped and on light load (eg sidelights), the voltage shouldn't drop below 12.6 volts. If this is not the case then either something is draining the battery, or the battery is faulty.

You might also try charging the battery with an external charger to rule out any alternator problem.

Have just seen your latest post, so what was the fix?
 

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Ah bad news. Had new alternator, tensioner and belt. IT hass cleared the alternator code, also fitted new glowplugs, which again has cleared them codes. It has sso far cost me £539 to find out it wasn't alternator or voltage causing gearbox to slump into limp mode. Last few days it has been very good and not messed me about until yesterday when it went into limp mode again (349.9 miles) since new alternator it took 19.1 miles to start messing about. Bit unhappy as now it is a gearbox out job to change elctro-plate on valve body. Chrysler specialist says his mate "Jim" can do it for £400, will book it in with him for when I go on holiday in 4 weeks time so he can have it for a week.

At least I am whittling the problems down : ( just expensive way to find out it isn't the fault
 

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someone will correct me if wrong but i dont think box has to come out to change valve block have done on merc with same box. valve blocks used to be for sale on ebay not that expensive


Roy
 

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Drop the transmission pan, pull electrical plug, pull filter, unbolt valve body and remove... Conductor plate clips on. Maybe an hour to remove if you've never done one before, then it's just bolt it back together in reverse order, fluid and jobs a good one.

Sounds like someone is taking you for a ride. Four hundred quid isn't bad if they are including fluid and the plate, labor only it is a little steep imo.
 

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Ah your right last commenter! Just spoke to Jim and he said he'll do a cash job for £400 and replace it and yes it stay on the car. Booked in for a day next week.

I really will be crying my little eyes out if this doesn't solve this problem.
 

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So the same thing happened to mine after replacing the alternator with a (new one) the car started acting weird the lights on the dash kept coming on and off as well as the windshield wipers. I than replaced the alternator with a used one from the junk yard to get an idea of what the issue may be. And after I put the used alternator along with a new battery the lights on the dash came of and the windshield wipers weren’t going crazy but I still had a battery light on. ??‍♂ if anyone has any info please let me know
 
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