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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here are the Dyno results.

I will say that I made one critical mistake. I did not disconnect the battery or pull Fuse 11 for 20 minutes like I should have (found out how inportant this is). The results ended up effecting my post install dyno runs. The net / net is that there is a performance increase, but the higher end was effected by what appears to be engine management.

EDIT: I ran all pulls in 4th gear slowly going from 2000 RPM's up. First 3 runs were with fuse 17 pulled.

ALSO the shop ground off the old clamps from the stock exhaust instead of using the ones that Magnoflow supplied. Worked like a charm.



There was a gain in the mid range. The peak was 15 HP.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I wanted to add something else for those interested...

Download the Dynojet Viewer to review my dynos

If you would like to view my dyno runs, they are attached.

The best way is to open both files and then click on the right hand side of the screen "None" section and select the Torque to see the Torque graph.

Have fun!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Similar Results as others

As shown by others...

Weedo said:
The results are in!! The runs were done yesterday and today, same time, same temperature, same dyno.

Stock:
347.61 hp
349.16 tq

Magnaflow:
367.16 hp
369.92 tq

19.55 hp gain :banana:
20.76 tq gain :banana:

The torque gains appear to be roughly 10rwhp at the start of the run (2,000rpm in 4th) and gradually go up from there.

The horse power gains are about 3rwhp at 2,000 rpm and are at about 10rwhp at around 3,300 rpm. At about 4,500 rpm the 20hp peak is roughly there and stays until the 6250 limiter.

This is by far the best hp/tq I've seen on any normally aspirated car that I've owned, and even more than any turbo or supercharged cars I've put an aftermarket exhaust on!

The sound is great. Not too loud, not too quiet, just where it should be!
This looks like some good numbers all the way around, at a very affordable price point. I plan on going back next week and doing another hour of pulls, after pulling Fuse 11 for 20 minutes and this time I plan on doing some runs in 3rd gear to see what difference that might make of the numbers.
 

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XCITsNU said:
As shown by others...



This looks like some good numbers all the way around, at a very affordable price point. I plan on going back next week and doing another hour of pulls, after pulling Fuse 11 for 20 minutes and this time I plan on doing some runs in 3rd gear to see what difference that might make of the numbers.
Congrats! Nice results. I think you'll find that 3rd gear actually shows the best RWHP. I don't understand why, as the 1:1 ratio in 4th should theoretically show the best numbers. Perhaps there's just that much more driveline loss trying to spin our heavy, large rear wheels up to 160 mph?
 

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I had a chance to review your passes and it looks like the cat-back is fucntioning as your A/F was altered about .25 leaner. What i do see that is not so good is that you have a very dramtice change in timing that occurs @ 4500 rpm. Do you know if the dyno facility monitored your engine coolant temp? It would appear that the vehicle dropped substantia timeing due to either IAT or ECT. Your dyno pass 4 should look like it does before 4500 without that drop ALL the way to redline. Your graphs both before and after show high heat conditions and how the ECM reacts. The only way to show your true benefits are to control the variable a little more. Good luck in your next dyno session.
 

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You guys are showing around 350 hp, I thought the srt-8 had 420-450?? Isn't that the same hp as the regular C? Sorry if it may be a silly question, I'm just kind of confused. I don't know much about reading those dynos.
 

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Cars are advertised as crank HP. Dyno's give wheel HP(how much gets put to the ground). Yes SRT-8's are advertised as 425 HP but thats crank HP without the drivetrain loss. So if you Dyno a regular C you will see they probably have like 280-290 Wheel HP
 

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marlinspike said:
So wait, am I reading these wrong, or did you only gain 2hp at the peak hp number? Also, what does pulling fuse 11 do?
Pulling fuse 11 removes power specifically from the PCM, forcing a re-boot of sorts, without clearing your custom memory settings (Sat radio, etc.) and necessitating other re-calibrations that often result from a complete power interruption, ie., pulling the battery's negative lead.

FNKYCHKN looked that one up for us at my request. Thanks again FC!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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XCITsNU said:
The engine coolant temp was roughly 230 to 240. I wanted to get HP dyno runs based on fairly normal driving conditions.
Sorry for going off subject here, but are you saying that my SRT8 should be running around 230-240 degrees on the engine temp guage? I keep getting conflicting info on this and am ready to have my water pump replaced because my MSRT8 runs consistantly around those numbers. Is that normal?

Thanks!
KK
 

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XCITsNU said:
That is the normal operating range. Should be anywhere from 220 up to 240.
XC,
Thank you!
KK
 

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That is NOT normal operating temperatures, that is PEAK. The car starts to remove timing and over fuel when temps get to 225.* The drops in power you are seeing because the PCM is reacting and tryin to keep the car cool. All the data logging I have done shows driving temps to be in around 195-215 with temps climbing under full throttle runs to 220. On the dyno numbers get higher due to insufficient airflow @ the 110-130 mph needed to reach 4th peak rpm.

I can't see how it can be considered normal operating temp if the car is intervening to remove power. These 20-30 HP drops seen on the dyno are there because the PCM is interpreting the conditions as marginal or outside of safe.

As seen on your chart the motor is reacting FAST to keep your car from suffereing and damage. @ 230* you are running 25* outside of the openign temp of your thermostat. I'm not a MOPAR engineer BUT i do understand why tuners build in certain safety's in the programming (I am a GM tuner myself.)
 

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btlfed1500 said:
That is NOT normal operating temperatures, that is PEAK. The car starts to remove timing and over fuel when temps get to 225.* The drops in power you are seeing because the PCM is reacting and tryin to keep the car cool...
A classic example of where the GSM mod would have been a huge help, apparently.
 

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GSM Mod and thermostat

Don't you need a lower range thermostat with the GSM mod. I think 180???

Is the stock TS a 220?

Meister said:
A classic example of where the GSM mod would have been a huge help, apparently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
btlfed1500 said:
That is NOT normal operating temperatures, that is PEAK. The car starts to remove timing and over fuel when temps get to 225.* The drops in power you are seeing because the PCM is reacting and tryin to keep the car cool. All the data logging I have done shows driving temps to be in around 195-215 with temps climbing under full throttle runs to 220. On the dyno numbers get higher due to insufficient airflow @ the 110-130 mph needed to reach 4th peak rpm.

I can't see how it can be considered normal operating temp if the car is intervening to remove power. These 20-30 HP drops seen on the dyno are there because the PCM is interpreting the conditions as marginal or outside of safe.

As seen on your chart the motor is reacting FAST to keep your car from suffereing and damage. @ 230* you are running 25* outside of the openign temp of your thermostat. I'm not a MOPAR engineer BUT i do understand why tuners build in certain safety's in the programming (I am a GM tuner myself.)
I have yet to see EITHER of my SRT-8's running at 190 or even 215 at normal coolant operating tempature. SO, something must be off somewhere. During normal driving I have only done WOT a couple of times and that was getting on the freeway. I've never really been into WOT street racing. Too dangerous. I have opened the excellerator up a few times on the freeway though, but not total WOT. I am more a track WOT driver. I work out of the home so I am rarely in my car without our children.

The only other times I have done WOT is at the track getting 1/4 times and the dyno. Help me out here. So if I am seeing average temperatures in the 220 to 235 range, are my two SRT-8's not running right?

Also let me clarify something. In diagnostic mode on the EVIC, my average operating temperature is 204 to 215. Which are you basing your statements on. Water Coolant Temperature or Engine Temperature?
 

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XCITsNU said:
I have yet to see EITHER of my SRT-8's running at 190 or even 215 at normal coolant operating tempature. SO, something must be off somewhere. During normal driving I have only done WOT a couple of times and that was getting on the freeway. I've never really been into WOT street racing. Too dangerous. I have opened the excellerator up a few times on the freeway though, but not total WOT. I am more a track WOT driver. I work out of the home so I am rarely in my car without our children.

The only other times I have done WOT is at the track getting 1/4 times and the dyno. Help me out here. So if I am seeing average temperatures in the 220 to 235 range, are my two SRT-8's not running right?

Also let me clarify something. In diagnostic mode on the EVIC, my average operating temperature is 204 to 215. Which are you basing your statements on. Water Coolant Temperature or Engine Temperature?
I am monitoring sensor directly through the PCM ALDL on my handheld scanner not through the user interface and dash functions
 

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This ocntinues to be an area of confusion and cross-talk. The normal temperature indicator is the engine oil temperate indicator. It typically reads 230. Using EVIC, we can see engine coolant temperature, which gets to about 215 before the fans turn on, lowering the temp closer to 200.

I think btlfed is reading coolant emperature, and XCITsNU is reporting oil temperature.
 
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