Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys and DGO if your around,

Service due, lots of small stuff I want doing and 61k on the clock and running great.
Sounds like I should get the ATF and filter changed, but just read 8 pages of thread "Transmission Fluid change".That thread goes back years and lots of great info on it from some very helpful guys, but now im scared stiff.Dealers,your own regular reliable mechanic, etc,etc, the thread says be super careful and also lots of conflicting info.Most or all posts, are from the States and maybe im wrong but all the guys posting seem to have Hemis.The Trans they refer to is a 722.6 Nag 1.
Some horror stories on there,soooooo,where do I go to get this done,Merc in Watford?my own guy? who is great ,but it sounds like you need the correct kit and prob need to have experience in these tranys on 300c,and lets face it we are a bit of a rare beast.
Or leave it ,as its only 60K on clock,I don't thrash it and only do 5K PA.
Its running like a dream and I don't want to ruin things.
Any advice please.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,550 Posts
I have a Chrysler service schedule which covers the first 100,000 miles and there is no mention of ATF and/or filter change. Maybe the transmission is "filled for life", or you just wait for a problem? In any event, it is not possible to remove all the fluid, unlike the oil in the sump. If you want some advice re servicing, I can recommend Hughes of Beaconsfield, they used to be a Chrysler dealership but are now Mercedes/Jeep. They have done a few jobs for me, including AirCon and coolant changes and if you give them a bit of notice they will provide a courtesy car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,708 Posts
The owner's manual for my '05 says change the tranny fluid and filter at 60K mile intervals. You're right on it, so 'giter dun'. I held off until 65K miles, at which point it went into a limp mode. Had the work done and no issues up to now at 86K miles.

It's generally not a DIY-type project partly because a dipstick doesn't come with the car, and the fluid level is affected by its temperature, so you need some equipment. But if you are into DIYing it you can find out how to prepare and proceed here on the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,153 Posts
Yes all our 300c CRDs in the UK have Nag1 gearboxes. You can do an oil change yourself. As above you need a dipstick, infrared thermometer, a clip to reseal the transmission dipstick cover (bought the clip for mine from Mercedes in Waford).

You need the sheet for the temperature in the thread here: Link

Some people extract the oil with a suction pump, only part of the oil comes out if you do that but a couple of changes will change the majority. Others take the pan off (though the bolts are a little fragile)

This is the set of what you're looking for if you want to do the change:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for that, but I would not trust myself and not capable anyway,I spoke to my regular mechanic and he is checking all
my concerns and assures me he won't attempt it unless he is satisfied he can do a proper job.Its a bit of an insult me even asking him whether he is up for it or not as he owns and works on the biggest most expensive Jags and Audis you can imagine,(not actually owns them, buys and sells them, but keeps them if he loves them).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,153 Posts
If he's used to working on Mercedes, preferably earlyish 2000's E classes (or similar), that's where our engines and gearboxes came from
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Got your reply on pm,thanks,and I will tell him which merc the trans is most similar to and see what he thinks, great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I went through all this with mine. Bought it 7 years ago with 100,000 k's. Got to 200,000 ks.

Now - firstly - let me say that here (Oz), most local auto's are "sealed". The reason for that is the makers had more trouble from "overfill/wrong fluid" than any other cause. So they gave up and passed it to mechanics only. No, it wasn't a conspiracy "so you'd have to go back to..." they just had a lot of stuff ups.

But at least the Chrysler has the dipstick tube.

The Chrysler service schedule is "all or nothing". Schedule "A" (normal use) says "never". Schedule "B" (Police/taxi/dusty/heavy use) says to change it.

I am very wary of "never/last forever" because are they assuming that the average consumer buys a new car every 5 years?

So I investigated.

Firstly, fluid. Half the mobs here sell "universal/compatible with all" fluids. Nah, not worth it. I bought the Chrysler stuff. You may have access to other ATF4 fluids, but here it is very rare, so I had no choice. I DO NOT trust the "She'll be right/one fluid fits all" the aftermarkets advertise. Each to their own.

There are two ways to do it.

You COULD just suck out the fluid and replace it. You'll only get 1/2 to a 2/3 of it, as converter remains full. You could do this a few times running in between (costly for fluid) but that should flush it out. Problem is filter remains in box.

With other auto's I have had to flush, I have removed the cooler return line, filled trans, started, drained dirty fluid until fluid runs clean. THAT is the best way, and the way Mercedes recommend, but you never know if they have done it.

On mine the unions were very hard to get at, and didn't want to introduce a leak on a 12 year old car. (Yeah, coward, I know :) )

I removed the sump. Changed the filter (old one was Mercedes badged, so looked original). Refilled.

The fluid was cheaper buying 2 x 5 litres than buying the exact amount needed in 1 litre bottles, so I had some to play with. Was still almost $200 for the 10 litres, but the cost of a new box - to me worth it.

I refilled. Ran for a few thousand k's. sucked out fluid through dipstick (removes just on 3 litres) and replaced. Did that three times, so now on third fill and have some in reserve.

Extreme I know, but the $200 in flush fluid and $50 for filter and gasket were zillions under what dealer wanted and I wasn't sure they would flush - their book just says "change filter/fluid."

Level is extremely important, and temp related. MAKE SURE you understand how the dipstick works re level.

BE AWARE there are 3 types of dipstick getting around. The one in the pic above is a "hot/cold" level one and is a bit ambiguous. How "hot" is "hot?" I think they are the wrong one and are for Mercedes, where a "step" lodges with a stop in the dipstick tube, but can't confirm. DON'T use it.

The book has a very detailed graph labelled in cms, so you need a dipstick in mm. The Chrysler method has the dipstick touch the bottom of the sump, and hence measures directly in cm. Again, there are TWO dipsticks on Ebay. I wouldn't use the plastic one. That looks like the Mercedes one and just has "cm" marks instead. Problem is, they aren't in cms, they are compressed. AND - plastic end is pushed on - can fall off inside sump - not good.

Third one is metal. It is calibrated in cms and actually measures in cms. This is the one that I have seen on sites where they are actually doing the job. Still cheap enough on Ebay.

My car was actually down on fluid for years. Once I did all the research and understood what the level should be, I did the drain/filter change and it is now perfect.

I can relax until the NEXT 200,000 ks (I'll be so old I probably won't care :) )

All other auto caveats apply. Read the manual regarding car running, cycle through park/drive/reverse etc, check running in park. If you don't fully understand, don't add fluid, as level/type are critical and can do more harm than good.

I won't do anything on my car unless I completely understand how it works. With an aerospace equip background I am lucky enough to be able to work some stuff out.

Hope that helps. I know it goes on a lot, but if I leave anything out, and someone stuffs something up cos of it, would feel worse than "raving on."

Cheers guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
PS - I have both dipsticks here and can take a pic if you are interested. (And if I can work out how to attach :p old blokes )

They are completely different and both labelled "cms" but would give completely different readings.

I am assuming that the "compressed" one is one that was made copying the Mercedes "zoned" one (stepped and "hot/ cold" ) and just replacing the temp zones with "cms" but as an assumption I could be wrong.

Chrysler go to all the trouble to produce a very detailed graph to show correct level with temp, so makes sense for me to use a correctly graduated cm dipstick to make the most of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Thanks OzKen for super informative posts! Did you notice any symptoms from your fluid being low? I sometimes get what I can only describe as a groaning noise from the transmission after a cold start when lifting off the gas and cruising to a junction. Car's done 130,000km (81,000m) and I doubt anyone's ever touched the auto box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Hello mate;

Yes, I did. I have mentioned it on another thread, but so many here. My reply from there is HERE

"My car did similar for a few years, but so intermittently that was hard to check.

About once a year (yep, once a year!!!) it would feel like running on half the cylinders for about 15 seconds, then ok. No fault codes, nothing else.

It ALWAYS did it within a couple of miles from home, always when cold, and always after a left hand turn. Talk about specific.......

I checked the trans fluid level, and it was down a bit, but not overly so. I avoided topping up as car normally ran perfect, and so many stories about "don't overfill/don't top up for life/if it's ok leave it/etc."

Also, here in Aust, ATF4 (apparently common in the US) is very hard to get here. While the "universal" ones say "are ok/fit all" I don't trust that, so put it off until I could filter change/flush/buy new fluid from Chrysler - so I KNEW was same fluid to mix with the small amount left in the trans.

A year ago, I wanted to do a filter/fluid change, so read up again/researched how much to put in, so as not to over fill.

When I pulled the pan off, I noticed that the pickup is slightly off to the left side.

When I refilled the trans, it took almost a litre extra to get it to the level it SHOULD be. Note that the level between cold/hot is quite different.

Therefore I deduce from this that while the level is ok normally, when very cold, level is low enough to slosh to one side on a left turn, and temporarily starve the feed for a few seconds.

Going into a corner with no throttle the trans will be in a high gear, as soon as you turn and accelerate, it should kick down. If mine has no fluid temporarily, it could stay in a high gear, and would therefore be trying to take off from slow in 3rd or 4th, so the "missing" isn't the engine, it is a cold engine struggling in too high a gear."

I surmise that is what my intermittent "stumbling/missing" problem was.

Full thread on that HERE

https://www.300cforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/276621-2006-300c-car-sometimes-goes-into-some-sort-limp-mode.html?utm_source=threadloom&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ed191&utm_content=iss44#post2791447
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top