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Discussion Starter #1
I have wanted the auto headlights since getting the car, but I didnt like the idea of chipping off the plastic stop in the switch to create a new switch position as is the norm, so i tried a different approach.

I ordered the whole switch for the facelift model with the "A" position which cost £38, and bought a set of 3 plastic spreader tools from B & Q for 98p, and then spent about 1 hour in the car park of B & Q, trying to get the catches to pop, by pressing the spreader tool above and below the switch.

very early on there was a pop, but it was one of the springclips on the top of the switch pinging off and falling behind the dashboard, luckily it fell down to the floor by the pedals, eventually I managed to get the switch off but it was hard and I was persistent and because the tools were plastic, not a mark was made on the switch or the dash.

the switch has 3 springclips to hold it on, 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom, but the top clips are not that securely held to the switch but difficult to beat with the tool and after much effort you end up pushing them off with the tool, but eventually they gave in, this was the best moment.

anyhow, the next problem was that the cable attached to the back was very tight and it was hard to get my hand round the back to release it, and it has a little red locking tab that needs sliding back first, but eventually that succumbed too.

the new switch is deeper, so the tight cable was less of a problem, and the socket is at a 90 degree angle to the old one. also the separate fog light switch is gone and is replaced by the main switch itself being pressed in sequentially.

having tested in daylight, all the lights work fine, now I am just waiting for dark to check the auto headlights work ok. the threshold in the secret menu is set to 190, I am pretty confident it will work, but will let you know if it doesnt.

anyhow I feel pretty proud of myself because they fit this kind of trim to try and defeat people doing things like this and it is nice when it works out.

I can post pictures of the relevant parts if anyone is interested.

err thats it really

regards

elpirata
 

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Would it not have been easier to remove the plastic trim at the driver's door and then the lower panel below the dash - I had this to remove to put in concealed wiring to my Talex and mobile phone and while as usual with these things, heartstoppingly tense, it was a very easy task with no damage done. This would have let you put your hand up behind the switch and push it out. I would however agree about removing any of the trim - frightening!! I have tended to download as PDF files or Word files any articles I see with photographs etc which involve trim removal. You then have good reference material with photographs which give you some idea of what you are letting yourself in for.
Cheers John
 

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What he said ^^^^^^^^^.its a piece of cake,couple of bolts and push the switch out
 

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If any of you guys have pictures etc I'd appreciate it as I'm looking to do the auto headlights but haven't a clue on what to do.

regards

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for comments, I knew that I could get at it by taking out the trim, but I have had so many bad experiences of breaking trim, that I deliberately chose not to do it that way.

also other times when I have managed to get the trim back and a mysterious rattle or creak appears, at present I have no noises at all like that :)

regards

elpirata
 

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Trim

Elpirata
If you want a real heart stopper, try taking out the silver trim around the radio. It's large, flimsy and well secured around the top of the clock. The rest fair drops off until you get to the top and then you start trying figure out what time the Parts Dept opens.

:pat:
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
hey silver,

the stress of not damaging that silver trim would be too much for me.

question:-

dide we ever establish what the TC setting in the EVIC secret menu did to the auto headlights?
I have it set to 60 at moment but have no idea what it means

also someone said on another thread, that you should be careful not to leave the switch in the A position when you leave the vehicle, why is this ? the handbook says it only works while the engine is running, so why does it matter ?

regards

elpirata
 

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Mines on "A" all the time,unless its going back to the stealerships of course
 

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So is mine - it stays there all the time and has done so since about two weeks after I bought the car when I finally plucked up the courage to pull the switch apart and give myself auto headlights.
Cheers John
 

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Hey guys - all this hard work !!!

Just e-a-s-e the switch out enough to get past the lug (small screwdriver or similar with a credit card behind to protect the plastic) and turn it to the left. It stays there all on its own and if you want to move it back - mind you why would you- just very slight finger and thumb pressure lets you ease the switch out again so it can be turned one to the right. Mines only ever been turned back once just to prove it could be .

Good luck
erick

I set all figures as high as they would go and the auto lights come on and go off just about as I would expect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I couldnt get the switch to move on the old one no matter how much i tried to lever and pull it, it felt like it was cemented on.

but the new switch has an A position and looks the part, so i am well happy

regards

elpirata
 

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I have mine in auto most of the time but am used to having the headlamps on all the time which go off with the ignition so I over-ride it occasionally. This is not an option in any switch position on the 300 but was available on my Saab. Its a "visability" thing which comes from riding a motorcycle.

I can't see a problem with having it in the A position all the time in the UK. Multi -tunnel work on the continent might upset the Xenons but a longer damping setting between lamp starts would avoid any problems.

The proof that it is fine, for me, is that it is standard on the new model. I get the feeling that Chrysler just held it back as an easy upgrade. It' also great fodder for folks like us. Agreed. It's good for the marqie to have an enthusiastic fan base.

Just off topic. I had the wheels swapped two weeks ago due to the corrosion problem experienced by lots of others. The parts man identified corrosion on the grille also. After a short conversation it became an option that the grille would be replaced , under warranty, with an S.tech version for only the price of the upgrade. £93.00 as it turned out. It looks good and I am grateful to the parts guy that pointed out my options. Worth knowing when the standard price is about £500 I think.
 

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you got any pics of your new car yet propus?or are they on another thread?
 

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you got any pics of your new car yet propus?or are they on another thread?
Only got the one pic taken today when I squeezed into a carpark only to realise there was a grassy mound lined with rocks just inside the enterance that would make it impossible for me to line up and drive straight out again. I had to squeeze through the barrier at a kinda squinty on way which ment I had to fold the mirrors in to get past! On folding the mirrors out and tilting down I realised I had about 1" clearance at each side. Not the kinda thing you should be doing within a week of going from a Micra to a 300C, haha! Everyone on the golf course across the road stopped playing and wathced me as I slowly slowly eased my way out. I won't be parking in there again!!!!!!!

Da Pimp or anyone in the Aberdeen area should take a drive past the Girdleness Lighthouse and have a look at just how tight the barriers are at the carpark just along from it.
 

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I'm glad it wasn't a photo of the big gouges along the side of your precious new car. You should now be quite competent at driving it in heavy traffic and judging tight gaps to wheel it through. Take car as your car looks great (just now). :)
Cheers John
 

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Ray, you have words with Propus and leave Gordon Brownstuff to me. To put it in the old Scots vernacular - Gordies needin' his erse kicked up his back fur a humph.
Cheers John
 
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