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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my AVIC D3 today with the wiring harness Metra CHTO-01
Now here is my problem:
1. There is no sound coming out at all but everything else is working fine
2. The radio is always on even with no key in the ignition I figure it is probably just the wiring ACC and BATTERY but everything is according with the wiring diagram
3. My last question is behind my OEM radio there is two harness one which goes into the metra harness and what about the other one?

Any help will be appreciated
Thank you
Steve
 

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I just got my AVIC D3 today with the wiring harness Metra CHTO-01
Now here is my problem:
1. There is no sound coming out at all but everything else is working fine
From the Metra instructions.

* Important:​
Before beginning any of the following, disconnect the negative
battery terminal to prevent accidental short circuit.

**NOTE: THE ACCESSORY POWER SOURCE OF MOST ALL CHRYLSER VEHICLES KEEPS
THE RADIO ON UNTIL ONE OF THE DOORS IS OPENED. THIS IS CALLED R.A.P.
(RETAINED ACCESSORY POWER). THE CHTO-01 IS DESIGNED TO RETAIN THIS FEATURE.​
*​
NOTE: THE VEHICLES IGNITION SWITCH MUST BE IN THE OFF POSITION BEFORE

PLUGGING THE CHTO-01 MODULE IN. ALSO THE KEY MUST BE CYCLED

Many people have had this same issue and this fixed it. I bet that is your problem.

2. The radio is always on even with no key in the ignition I figure it is probably just the wiring ACC and BATTERY but everything is according with the wiring diagram

You must connect the red wire (ignition/accessory wire correctly)> This will tell the unit when to turn off or on.

3. My last question is behind my OEM radio there is two harness one which goes into the metra harness and what about the other one?

The second harnes is not used. I believe it is for factory satellite radio and ves (audio and aux) if you have it. I actually cut these wires for my VES and am in the process of creating RCA inputs for my Z2 from the VES wires...

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Discussion Starter #3
All the wire are connected correctly I just double check them

Do you really need to unplug the negative battery terminal because I never did that in the past to all my other car, that is the only thing I did not do

I found on the web too, that you only suppose to hook up the Front RCA cable from the radio to the Rear RCA on the 22 pin harness and you do not use the other RCA cable.
 

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All the wire are connected correctly I just double check them

Do you really need to unplug the negative battery terminal because I never did that in the past to all my other car, that is the only thing I did not do

I found on the web too, that you only suppose to hook up the Front RCA cable from the radio to the Rear RCA on the 22 pin harness and you do not use the other RCA cable.
No, you use all 4 RCA outputs from the metra harness and connect them to the RCA outputs from your D3 on the 14 pin harness. I see where you went wrong. The harness/controller does the fade control so when you connect all 4 rca's to the 14 pin side to the controller it only outputs 2 signals with the fade control included. The harness does fade control via the canbus. You need to hook up all 4 RCAS to the 14 pin side and then the controller will send 2 signals out via the 4 wires (+ and - for both sides) through the 22 pin harness. My point is that you should NOT be connecting to the 22 pin side of the harness. To find out which rca from the Metra haness controls which speaker it is a trial and error thing.

You have an upgraded system with a seperate amp correct?

You may not need to do the negative thing if your audio wires are not connected correctly (which is what it sounds like). The audio wires should be just rca plugs.

You are making all connections to the 14 pin side correct? The only connections on the 22 pin side should be the yellow power, black ground, and orange illum.... Did you connect the ignition wire (red) to the 22 pin side of the harness? It should be on the 14 pin side....

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The only thing I am upgrading in my car is the front deck everything else is stock.

I have the Boston acoustic system in the car I think is the big one because I have a center speaker in the front


Yes I did connect all 3 wires correctly to the 22 pin harness, the ground (Black), illumination(Orange) and the battery(Yellow)

On the 14 pin harness I have all my 4 RCA hook up the the RCA of the radio, the turn ON amp to the system remote control(Radio), VSS to VSS, the reverse to reverse and ACC to ACC on radio

The only wire which I did not hook up is the brown(Mute) and the green (Parking brake) that on the 14 pin harness

I did do the bypass on the wiring on the radio side which is the mute(Yellow black) move on slot up and hook up to the ground and the parking brake(Green ) to the ground

Let me know, the only thing I was considering was to do a reset on the unit itself which I did not do

Thank for the help

And do I still need to unplug my battery because I did not do it the first time
 

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Sounds like you have everything right. Do exactly what the directions say with the removing the negative to the battery and it may work. People said they had your same problem and did this to make it work. Sound stupid but supposedly works. Let us know..

BTW to disconnect the battery is like a 2 second process (really). remove the floorboard and get out a wrench and remove the negative.... Disconnect and reconnect the harness.. connect the negative again. Make sure you go upfront and put your keys in and cycle from off to the accessory position 2-3 times. Do not turn on the car. Once that is complete it should theoretically work lmao....


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Discussion Starter #8
I did talk with the tech at metra and it look like I have a bad metra box. I did try with the battery unplug for 10 minutes and still the same problem, the radio is always ON and no sound. I also check the voltage at the amp turn on and I had 11.2 volts

Also none of my wheel control are working? I taught with that kit it was suppose to work

Anyway if anybody else can give me advice let me know
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anyone know if I still need to hook up the parking and mute wire form the metra harness after you have done the By-Pass method, that is the only two wire which I did not hook up
 

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I don't believe I hooked them up and have no issue. I may have hooked up the mute wire but am pretty sure I didn't. You of course grounded the parking brake wire from the d3 correct?

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes I did grounded the parking brake and I also grounded the Mute one after it was move up in the wiring harness.

So basically it look like I will have to buy a new metra harness
 

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I recommend Crutchfield since you can return it if it does not work and they will make sure you get the correct harness. I wanted mine same day so I bought mine in town....
 

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Good question. Was it solved?

Mine died this weekend, exactly the same way. Unit was on but no sound. Metra is blaming the CHTO-01 unit not turning on the amp, so a new one is on its way from Crutchfield. Hopefully that will solve my issue.
 

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i just got my d3 done yesterday doing all of the install myself...btw you dont have to have the mute or parking break wire grounded from the chto-01.just tape them up.i did the bypass too and it is working great. ill put pics up soon
 

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Definetly ground the Mute and Ebrake connectors. The mute is only important if you install the bluetooth module, but the eBrake one is required. If you don't hook it up or ground it, the system will stop working. Its a safety feature that Pionner requires to have and you either have to use it or bypass it (by grounding).



FYI: My unit works again. The CHTO-01 unit was bad.
 

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mike...maybe you misunderstood what i was saying, i DID ground the ebrake and mute wire from the pioneer harness that plugs into the dvd/nav unit. but i did not have to ground those wires on the chto-01 adapter. and everything works fine. i can use the nav controls while in motion and it plays dvds even at 60 mph.hopefully that clarifies everything.
 
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