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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there, I have a 2006 Chrysler 300 Limited (V6 3.5L).

Overnight my battery drains to the point that the remote key doesn't work (around 5 volts).
I did check the alternator with a technician, which claims alternator is working OK, then I changed the battery to a new one.

At this point battery is at 12.7 volts with engine off, and 14.8 volts whit engine running. The problem is that it drains overnight.

I disconnected the negative cable from the battery and tested how many Amps where being drawn. To my surprise the battery is always draining 1.8 Amps. My brother has a 2005 300 limited, I did the same test, and it only drains 0.01 Amps.

Then I disconnected, one by one, the fuses on the rear fuse box (located in the trunk) and noticed the following:
- When disconnecting fuse for 'RADIO UNIT / NAVIGATION', the drain will go down to around 1.1 Amps, instead of 1.8.
- When disconnecting fuse for 'HEATED SEATS', it drains just a bit (like .1 or .2 Amps).
- When disconnecting fuse #14 'Sentry Key Remote Keyless Entry', it goes to 0.0 Amps. (Doing so will disable all dome lights, power locks, remote key, etc.).
- All other fuses in the rear change nothing.
- All fuses on the FRONT fuse box do nothing as well (located under the hood).

Then, I decided to change ALL relays from the rear fuse box with the ones from my brother's 300 but problem still remains. I did not have time to change relays from the FRONT fuse box.



Any ideas of what the problem might be? Anything will be appreciated :)


PS: I noticed my stop light doesn't work (the one in me middle, the ones on tail lights work fine). Also, my turn signal has some kind of false, I did have to fold the cable a bit a week ago so that it works. Obviously this lights are OFF when car is sleeping at night.
 

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Welcome to the forums.
Happy for you to create 2 threads, one in the new members introduction and the other with your problem but not multiple threads with the same problem.
I have deleted the duplicate.
 

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First, how old is the battery? If more than 4 years it may need replacing.

Second, is the trunk light off when the trunk is closed?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Battery is new (2 weeks old), and all lights are off (trunk, glove box, dome lights, all exterior lights, radio off, etc).

Any ideas? I want to see if I can solve it before going with an electrician
 

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Did you let the car sit 30 min with everything closed before doing amp check. Give the computers time to go to sleep.
 

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Battery is new (2 weeks old), and all lights are off (trunk, glove box, dome lights, all exterior lights, radio off, etc).

Any ideas? I want to see if I can solve it before going with an electrician
Close the car up and wait 15 min for the computers to go to sleep then do a current draw test.

New battery doesn't have to mean Good battery.. Just new. :dead1:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Resolved :)

Thank you vettdvr for your answer, but it seems like I got it figured out (hopefully). In case someone else might find this useful in the future, this is what I got:

To recap, the car (Chrysler 300 2006 limited) was drawing 1.8 Amps while the car was off and everything closed. My brother has another 300 which only draws 0.01 Amps.

1) I made sure that all lights (trunk light, dome lights, glove box light, etc where off).

2) I waited up to 1 or 2 hours to make sure the car should be "sleeping" (even though my brother's Chrysler 300 would go down to 0.01 Amps after 1 minute).

3) I started to remove fuses, one by one, to measure current draw and see if it would drop down. (If you remove fuse #5 for example, and current draw goes down to almost 0 Amps it means there is a problem with one or more components located on that specific circuit.) There is an excellent tutorial for that in here: wikihow[.]com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

4) As I told on the original post, I couldn't find a specific fuse to be the problem.

5) Then I disconnected stuff from the car: STEREO, A/C, ANALOG CLOCK, HEATED-SEATS-BUTTONS, but still there was a current draw of 1.8 Amps

I was very frustrated at this point and was about to take it to the dealer for a diagnostic (which is kind of expensive in my country) but decided to give it one last try...

6) Disconnecting the cables from both seats (which are heated and electric), there are like 4 or 5 connectors down there (under each seat). This solved the problem!
I even reconnected them and the problem was still gone (apparently one of the connectors wasn't very well connected and was drawing battery since I had to connect and disconnect them a couple of times each).
 

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What a great find, don't think that would of ever crossed my mind as the reason.
thought this thread was worth tagging and noticed someone beat me to it with "Battery drains"
 

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Hello there, I have a 2006 Chrysler 300 Limited (V6 3.5L).

Overnight my battery drains to the point that the remote key doesn't work (around 5 volts).
I did check the alternator with a technician, which claims alternator is working OK, then I changed the battery to a new one.

At this point battery is at 12.7 volts with engine off, and 14.8 volts whit engine running. The problem is that it drains overnight.

I disconnected the negative cable from the battery and tested how many Amps where being drawn. To my surprise the battery is always draining 1.8 Amps. My brother has a 2005 300 limited, I did the same test, and it only drains 0.01 Amps.

Then I disconnected, one by one, the fuses on the rear fuse box (located in the trunk) and noticed the following:
  • When disconnecting fuse for 'RADIO UNIT / NAVIGATION', the drain will go down to around 1.1 Amps, instead of 1.8.
  • When disconnecting fuse for 'HEATED SEATS', it drains just a bit (like .1 or .2 Amps).
  • When disconnecting fuse #14 'Sentry Key Remote Keyless Entry', it goes to 0.0 Amps. (Doing so will disable all dome lights, power locks, remote key, etc.).
  • All other fuses in the rear change nothing.
  • All fuses on the FRONT fuse box do nothing as well (located under the hood).
Then, I decided to change ALL relays from the rear fuse box with the ones from my brother's 300 but problem still remains. I did not have time to change relays from the FRONT fuse box.



Any ideas of what the problem might be? Anything will be appreciated :)


PS: I noticed my stop light doesn't work (the one in me middle, the ones on tail lights work fine). Also, my turn signal has some kind of false, I did have to fold the cable a bit a week ago so that it works. Obviously this lights are OFF when car is sleeping at night.
 

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Change out the keyless entry with a different kind. It is the cooperate. Also check remote start if you installed one to make sure the remote turn on wire is to the accessary , wire into the battery part of the ignition switch. Both will allow the car to crank remotely as well the battery causes remote start to still draw current.
 

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Change out the keyless entry with a different kind. It is the cooperate. Also check remote start if you installed one to make sure the remote turn on wire is to the accessary , wire into the battery part of the ignition switch. Both will allow the car to crank remotely as well the battery causes remote start to still draw current.
[/QUOT
Thanks, but didn't the OP post "Resolved", in oversized red text with a smiley face, six years ago?
 

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Resolved :)

Thank you vettdvr for your answer, but it seems like I got it figured out (hopefully). In case someone else might find this useful in the future, this is what I got:

To recap, the car (Chrysler 300 2006 limited) was drawing 1.8 Amps while the car was off and everything closed. My brother has another 300 which only draws 0.01 Amps.

1) I made sure that all lights (trunk light, dome lights, glove box light, etc where off).

2) I waited up to 1 or 2 hours to make sure the car should be "sleeping" (even though my brother's Chrysler 300 would go down to 0.01 Amps after 1 minute).

3) I started to remove fuses, one by one, to measure current draw and see if it would drop down. (If you remove fuse #5 for example, and current draw goes down to almost 0 Amps it means there is a problem with one or more components located on that specific circuit.) There is an excellent tutorial for that in here: wikihow[.]com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

4) As I told on the original post, I couldn't find a specific fuse to be the problem.

5) Then I disconnected stuff from the car: STEREO, A/C, ANALOG CLOCK, HEATED-SEATS-BUTTONS, but still there was a current draw of 1.8 Amps

I was very frustrated at this point and was about to take it to the dealer for a diagnostic (which is kind of expensive in my country) but decided to give it one last try...

6) Disconnecting the cables from both seats (which are heated and electric), there are like 4 or 5 connectors down there (under each seat). This solved the problem!
I even reconnected them and the problem was still gone (apparently one of the connectors wasn't very well connected and was drawing battery since I had to connect and disconnect them a couple of times each).
Thanks for doing all the hard work of troubleshooting. I have the same issue with my 05' 300c. I can't believe people would ask if the Battery is old or "even though you got a new battery, it doesn't mean it's good" How ridiculous! I have gone through 3 brand new batteries in the last 5 yrs because of this same issue. If I let my car sit for 2 weeks then it completely dies. I will check my seats and see if that fixes the issue.
 

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Hello there, I have a 2006 Chrysler 300 Limited (V6 3.5L).

Overnight my battery drains to the point that the remote key doesn't work (around 5 volts).
I did check the alternator with a technician, which claims alternator is working OK, then I changed the battery to a new one.

At this point battery is at 12.7 volts with engine off, and 14.8 volts whit engine running. The problem is that it drains overnight.

I disconnected the negative cable from the battery and tested how many Amps where being drawn. To my surprise the battery is always draining 1.8 Amps. My brother has a 2005 300 limited, I did the same test, and it only drains 0.01 Amps.

Then I disconnected, one by one, the fuses on the rear fuse box (located in the trunk) and noticed the following:
  • When disconnecting fuse for 'RADIO UNIT / NAVIGATION', the drain will go down to around 1.1 Amps, instead of 1.8.
  • When disconnecting fuse for 'HEATED SEATS', it drains just a bit (like .1 or .2 Amps).
  • When disconnecting fuse #14 'Sentry Key Remote Keyless Entry', it goes to 0.0 Amps. (Doing so will disable all dome lights, power locks, remote key, etc.).
  • All other fuses in the rear change nothing.
  • All fuses on the FRONT fuse box do nothing as well (located under the hood).
Then, I decided to change ALL relays from the rear fuse box with the ones from my brother's 300 but problem still remains. I did not have time to change relays from the FRONT fuse box.



Any ideas of what the problem might be? Anything will be appreciated :)


PS: I noticed my stop light doesn't work (the one in me middle, the ones on tail lights work fine). Also, my turn signal has some kind of false, I did have to fold the cable a bit a week ago so that it works. Obviously this lights are OFF when car is sleeping at night.
It is the keyless entry module, yet not enough people complain of the issue to make it a recall. yet you can replace it , yet i best fill it's best to replace the keyless entry with a aftermarket one.
 
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