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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Big problem with brakes after replacing front caliper metal pipes that run to the ABS pump. I used a Gunsen bleed kit that is pressurised with the spare tyre, all the air seems to come out ok and there are no leaks. The brake pedal is firm with the engine off but with the engine on I can push the pedal to the floor. I've read there could be air trapped in the ABS pump after replacing pipes that run to it. I elevated the rear of the car during the bleeding process as I've read this is recommended but that didn't work. I'm almost certain air remains in the system does anyone have any useful tips to get the air out of the ABS pump or do I have another issue.
 

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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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Is your ABS light on? What is the problem you are having? The only two ways to remove air from the ABS module is with the AlfaOBD tool, or by taking the car to the dealer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No ABS light on, I may not have a problem as I've just tested 3 other cars ( 2 manual 1 auto) and all their brake pedals go down progressively with the engine running, the 300C goes down almost the same maybe slightly easier. Something I've never noticed before in nearly 40 years of driving but then again I guess it's not something you would normally do. The car brakes fine although new discs and pads are new so not bedded in.
 

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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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When I had fluid leak in one of my lines, at a stop I would have my foot to the floor to keep the car still. Eventually it would start to creep forward. As long as your car stays still and brakes correctly it sounds like you did everything right.
 
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The Workshop Manual has detailed procedure, with reference to use of scantool, for bleeding ABS.

Abridged extract from Manual:

"BLEEDING When bleeding the ABS system, the following bleeding sequence must be followed to insure complete and adequate bleeding. 1. Make sure all hydraulic fluid lines are installed and properly torqued. 2. Connect the scan tool to the diagnostics connector. The diagnostic connector is located under the lower steering column cover to the left of the steering column. 3. Using the scan tool, check to make sure the ABM does not have any fault codes stored. If it does, clear them. WARNING: When bleeding the brake system wear safety glasses. A clear bleed tube (1) must be attached to the bleeder screws and submerged in a clear container filled part way with clean brake fluid (2). Direct the flow of brake fluid away from yourself and the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Brake fluid at high pressure may come out of the bleeder screws when opened. NOTE: Pressure bleeding is recommended to bleed the base brake system to ensure all air is removed from system. Manual bleeding may also be used, but additional time is needed to remove all air from system. 4. Bleed the base brake system. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - BASE - STANDARD PROCEDURE) 5. Using the scan tool, select ECU VIEW, followed by ABS MISCELLANEOUS FUNCTIONS to access bleeding. Follow the instructions displayed. When finished, disconnect the scan tool and proceed. 6. Bleed the base brake system a second time. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir periodically to prevent emptying, causing air to enter the hydraulic system."
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Not been for MOT yet as they're all booked up until Monday.
Anyway still not 100% happy with the pedal feel although I think it will pass the MOT, the car stops fine and ABS activates but just doesn't feel as it should to me. The car had new discs and pads on all 4 corners and new front calipers which have only done 2 short journeys with lots of braking to bed them in so although not fully bedded in don't think that will make much difference. Bled the brakes again yesterday and no air at all come out. Beginning to think there must be a small amount of air trapped somewhere maybe in the ABS pump but no dash light is ont so don't know. Worst case it fails MOT I will have to pay them to get it sorted. Also I've read that the master cylinders can go bad but at 52k miles hopefully isn't that.
 

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Do a bleed sequence on the ABS pump with a good diagnostic/scanner tool such as Autel or equivalent. See devilmaycare's post above. After doing this, then bleed system again and any air trapped will come out. Have had to do this on my wife's Ford Fiesta(uses same type of ABS pump as Chrysler does)and it works well now.
If your pedal remains spongy, you may have a questionable ABS pump.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do a bleed sequence on the ABS pump with a good diagnostic/scanner tool such as Autel or equivalent. See devilmaycare's post above. After doing this, then bleed system again and any air trapped will come out. Have had to do this on my wife's Ford Fiesta(uses same type of ABS pump as Chrysler does)and it works well now.
If your pedal remains spongy, you may have a questionable ABS pump.
Managed to sort this by just actuating the ABS pump by braking hard on a slippery surface a few times. There was a fair bit of air that came out of yhe ABS pump during normal bleeding. Passed mot with flying colours both fronts were in the 400's and the rears on the 300's on the brake testing rollers so all good.
 

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Managed to sort this by just actuating the ABS pump by braking hard on a slippery surface a few times. There was a fair bit of air that came out of yhe ABS pump during normal bleeding. Passed mot with flying colours both fronts were in the 400's and the rears on the 300's on the brake testing rollers so all good.
Glad to hear you've got this sorted out well!
 
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