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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first post on these forums about my own 300 so take it easy on me :biggrin:. I am starting my 3rd fiberglass enclosure, the first one was for my brothers Cavalier, second one was for my Cavalier. About a year ago I sold my cavalier and upgraded to the 300! Time for some I.C.E.!

We'll start off with pictures of the car it's going into! I apologize for the sh*tty pictures, they were taken with my phone. I promise when the enclosure is done I will take some high resolution pictures!





Current Mod List:
-24" TIS 08 Wheels
-275/25/24 Wanli Ruberbands :fing02:
-Pioneer AVIC-D3
-Pioneer AVIC-Bluetooth Unit
-Pioneer AVIC-iPod Unit
-Fiberglassed Dash Bezel for Head Unit
-Reverse Camera
-5%/35% Window Tint
-Chrome Mesh Grill

Audio Going In:
-(2) 12" Kicker L7's Subwoofers (Dual-VC / 4-Ohm)
-(1) Kicker KX1200.1 Amp

So on to the pictures! :biggrin:

Cardboard mock-up piece for template


Cutting a side panel


Wood panels cut and placed in car


Just a different angle


Wheelwell, this will be glassed later


Securing panels with L brackets


L brackets all mounted, sanding edges to remove sharp corners and make panels perfectly flush


Cutting and Sanding Subwoofer Rings


Then we drilled holes and slid in some wood dowels that help mirror the locations of the subs. They will be fiberglassed in place and used for support to stretch the fleece for the initial shape of the enclosure. Here are some pictures of the rings in place.


Another angle



Let me know what you guys think! :fing02:
 

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I would glass those wheel wells while it is in the car but before doing the subs. Its going to be a PITA to do it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would glass those wheel wells while it is in the car but before doing the subs. Its going to be a PITA to do it later.
For sure...

Here's the steps going forward:
1) Cut hole from bottom panel, All fiberglassing will be done on the inside of the enclosure.
2) Fiberglass Wheel Wells
3) Fiberglass Corners of Panels
4) Fiberglass Wood Dowels and Sub Rings into place
5) Stretch Fleece Temporarily to determine shape of Devider MDF Board (To divide the box into two chambers)
6) Fiberglass & Nail in the MDF Divider
7) Stretch Fleece / Staple / Glass Away!!!

I'll update pics along the way! :fing02:
 

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For sure...

Here's the steps going forward:
1) Cut hole from bottom panel, All fiberglassing will be done on the inside of the enclosure.
2) Fiberglass Wheel Wells
3) Fiberglass Corners of Panels
4) Fiberglass Wood Dowels and Sub Rings into place
5) Stretch Fleece Temporarily to determine shape of Devider MDF Board (To divide the box into two chambers)
6) Fiberglass & Nail in the MDF Divider
7) Stretch Fleece / Staple / Glass Away!!!

I'll update pics along the way! :fing02:
I would stay away from fleece. I know alot of shops use it but Ive found that a 4 way stretch spandex like material works better and uses less resin in the long run. wal mart has a material like this that is not a true spandex but its about 1/3 as thick as the fleece and MUCH easier to work with. The end result is also stronger because there are fewer voids produced by the fibers of the fleece standing up. Less sanding is also a key feature of this material. On my enclosures (especially ones that see bigger speakers moving more air) I use about 8-10 layers of chopped mat and Ive found that to make a layer of glass 3/16 -5/16 thick and its held up for years and years (box still sees action and was built back in 99 for dB drags)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would stay away from fleece. I know alot of shops use it but Ive found that a 4 way stretch spandex like material works better and uses less resin in the long run. wal mart has a material like this that is not a true spandex but its about 1/3 as thick as the fleece and MUCH easier to work with. The end result is also stronger because there are fewer voids produced by the fibers of the fleece standing up. Less sanding is also a key feature of this material. On my enclosures (especially ones that see bigger speakers moving more air) I use about 8-10 layers of chopped mat and Ive found that to make a layer of glass 3/16 -5/16 thick and its held up for years and years (box still sees action and was built back in 99 for dB drags)
This is definitely something I will consider. On my first two boxes I used a material similar to what you are referring to but it has very little strength before glassing it, so I figured it would save me some time in the long run. The Fleece would also add the initial support I need for the enclosure to sit on the Sub Rings as I will be glassing from the back side.

Thanks for bringing this up, I'll have to weigh out the pros and cons.

for those interested in seeing my last box in my cavalier, you can see pictures on my old CarDomain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/358824/

Thanks guys, keep the replies coming!! :)
 

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damm nice cant wait to see more
 

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This is my first post on these forums about my own 300 so take it easy on me :biggrin:. I am starting my 3rd fiberglass enclosure, the first one was for my brothers Cavalier, second one was for my Cavalier. About a year ago I sold my cavalier and upgraded to the 300! Time for some I.C.E.!

We'll start off with pictures of the car it's going into! I apologize for the sh*tty pictures, they were taken with my phone. I promise when the enclosure is done I will take some high resolution pictures!





Current Mod List:
-24" TIS 08 Wheels
-275/25/24 Wanli Ruberbands :fing02:
-Pioneer AVIC-D3
-Pioneer AVIC-Bluetooth Unit
-Pioneer AVIC-iPod Unit
-Fiberglassed Dash Bezel for Head Unit
-Reverse Camera
-5%/35% Window Tint
-Chrome Mesh Grill

Audio Going In:
-(2) 12" Kicker L7's Subwoofers (Dual-VC / 4-Ohm)
-(1) Kicker KX1200.1 Amp

So on to the pictures! :biggrin:

Cardboard mock-up piece for template


Cutting a side panel


Wood panels cut and placed in car


Just a different angle


Wheelwell, this will be glassed later


Securing panels with L brackets


L brackets all mounted, sanding edges to remove sharp corners and make panels perfectly flush


Cutting and Sanding Subwoofer Rings


Then we drilled holes and slid in some wood dowels that help mirror the locations of the subs. They will be fiberglassed in place and used for support to stretch the fleece for the initial shape of the enclosure. Here are some pictures of the rings in place.


Another angle



Let me know what you guys think! :fing02:
Looks good so far but there are much better ways to do those rings, and other things
 

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Looks good so far but there are much better ways to do those rings, and other things

you cant just say that there is a better way and bounce

drop some knowledge on the man

tips and tricks are always usefull.
 

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Ur doing fine... Dont worry about the haters. If you dont want the haters I will take them. LOL
 

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I noticed you are using L brackets to hold the panels together. Is that the only thing securing the pieces of wood to each other?

Also for the rings, you could simply nail through the ring into the dowel. It will make it easier to remove then once you get a few layers of glass on it.

Depending on the overall look you are going for, another trick is to router all the edges where the mold fabric will attach. We usually do 1/4" deep by about 1/2" long. Then once you start glassing over the mold fabric it will sit flush with the wood. Saves alot of mud time.

Shawn
 

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I noticed you are using L brackets to hold the panels together. Is that the only thing securing the pieces of wood to each other?

Also for the rings, you could simply nail through the ring into the dowel. It will make it easier to remove then once you get a few layers of glass on it.

Depending on the overall look you are going for, another trick is to router all the edges where the mold fabric will attach. We usually do 1/4" deep by about 1/2" long. Then once you start glassing over the mold fabric it will sit flush with the wood. Saves alot of mud time.

Shawn

good call, I like to hit the edges of my boxes with the router as well to help define the edge itself.


When i do my boxes I attach the panels with 1.5" sheetrock screws, predrilled every 4" or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've already sanded the edges that I want to be smooth, the rest I want the nice sharp edge. As far as cutting the rings...I'm not exactly sure what he was referring to. I could understand there would be easier ways to cut circle rings, but squares are a little different. And I'm not sure how you know what process I used anyways because I didn't post any pictures. lol.

The dowels are only inserted into holes I drilled in the MDF using a drill press. Once the box is glassed, the dowels will be removed to give me more room as I will be doing all of the glass work from the inside. The final product wont require very much sanding (if any). Might just smooth a mixture I call "Milk Shake" over it and sand that down.

The "L" Brackets are the only thing holding the panels together at this point, but it is extremely sturdy and I will be glassing all of the edges together.

The part I am having the hardest time with right now is making the splitter board to devide the box into two chambers. I dont want it to be visible (adding an extra contour in the shape of the box) so it has to be the exact shape that fleece will be stretched. I should get quite a bit of work done tonight.

Here is an update pic. I am getting ready to glass the wheel wells. Thanks for all of the suggestions and comments so far. :fing02:



Here's a little teaser of what it will look like. We just stretched the fleece quickly, you can tell the rings are a little off, I will get them a little more even before we actually glass it!

 

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I've already sanded the edges that I want to be smooth, the rest I want the nice sharp edge. As far as cutting the rings...I'm not exactly sure what he was referring to. I could understand there would be easier ways to cut circle rings, but squares are a little different. And I'm not sure how you know what process I used anyways because I didn't post any pictures. lol.

The dowels are only inserted into holes I drilled in the MDF using a drill press. Once the box is glassed, the dowels will be removed to give me more room as I will be doing all of the glass work from the inside. The final product wont require very much sanding (if any). Might just smooth a mixture I call "Milk Shake" over it and sand that down.

The "L" Brackets are the only thing holding the panels together at this point, but it is extremely sturdy and I will be glassing all of the edges together.

The part I am having the hardest time with right now is making the splitter board to devide the box into two chambers. I dont want it to be visible (adding an extra contour in the shape of the box) so it has to be the exact shape that fleece will be stretched. I should get quite a bit of work done tonight.

Here is an update pic. I am getting ready to glass the wheel wells. Thanks for all of the suggestions and comments so far. :fing02:



Here's a little teaser of what it will look like. We just stretched the fleece quickly, you can tell the rings are a little off, I will get them a little more even before we actually glass it!


I personally wouldn't rely on the just the L brackets and the glass to hold the box together. I would still glue and nail it together. Or scews if you don't have a brad nailer.

Are you planning on running both subs off one amp? If so, you won't need a divider for the box. The box I am currently working on will hold 4 L7's and will not have a divider. I will be running two amps though. The trick there is to use an amp clamp and make sure both amps are putting out the exact same power to each pair of subs.

Another trick I have learned over the years, if you don't want to use tape over the carpeted areas, use a couple layers of tinfoil. It helps when you don't want the adhesive residue left over after you pull the tape off. And if you are glassing over tape or tinfoil, you don't need to use the mold fabric as a base. You can simply lay your glass in right over the top of the tape/tinfoil.

Looks like its coming along nicely.

Shawn
 

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wow beautiful looking box i agree with blown that those "L" brackets can't be counted on i would use screws and glue as well. I have also heard instead of dowels people use that plumbers metal strips with the holes every 1/2" or so then you can put it down with two screws or nails but also have the ability to bend it if necessary to get your angles of the rings or height to line up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think my main problem is that one of the wood dowels I cut from was a little warped. I think the metal you are referring to would be perfect to reinforce these dowels and get the rings exactly where I want them.

I actually bought tin foil to use also but I don't think I will end up using it now that I have it all taped.

I put the fleece material on those openings for the wheel wells because the box doesn't sit flush with the wheel well or the floor on the back of the opening and it will just make it a little easier to get the initial shape.

I know a couple people have mentioned the "L" brackets, like I mentioned before I will be glassing all of the corners together as well on top of the metal brackets. Do you guys think this will be sufficient? These metal brackets are over 1/8" thick and have 4 screws per "L". I can't even bend the panels or flex them at all the way it is now, I can't imagine after glassing that it wouldn't be strong enough, but it definitely needs to be sealed with some glass.

Let me know your thoughts!

Oh, and I will be running them off one amp, they are both Dual 4ohms, and my amp is only one Ohm stable. I was thinking about getting another Amp but theres no way I could run the Dual-4s separately at 1ohm.

I plan on porting this box if the space is big enough. I will need to measure cubic volume when it's done.
 
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