catch cans (swirl failure prevention).
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Hi Matt
i found it best to keep an eye on the " billet tech " section as there offers have free shipping and various discounts at the same time, can work out very good deals, and ask nice for the lower value customs declaration
i found it best to keep an eye on the " billet tech " section as there offers have free shipping and various discounts at the same time, can work out very good deals, and ask nice for the lower value customs declaration
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1,299 Posts
@MALESCOT
i post the infos here and send it not to your mail, mabe other have the same problems.
:fing02:
here some pdf from my mediafire account for download.
only pics from my install:
http://www.mediafire.com/file/yob0ldede8gsa81/only pics - catch can install by sox.pdf
here my install report from the german lx-forum:
[http://www.mediafire.com/file/h6f1kmf6aug0ic4/german Catch Can install by sox.pdf
i post the infos here and send it not to your mail, mabe other have the same problems.
:fing02:
here some pdf from my mediafire account for download.
only pics from my install:
http://www.mediafire.com/file/yob0ldede8gsa81/only pics - catch can install by sox.pdf
here my install report from the german lx-forum:
[http://www.mediafire.com/file/h6f1kmf6aug0ic4/german Catch Can install by sox.pdf
Joined
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1,299 Posts
@MALESCOT
i post the infos here and send it not to your mail, mabe other have the same problems.
:fing02:
here some pdf from my mediafire account for download.
only pics from my install, 4mb.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/yob0ldede8gsa81/only pics - catch can install by sox.pdf
here my install report from the german lx-forum, 29mb.
[http://www.mediafire.com/file/h6f1kmf6aug0ic4/german Catch Can install by sox.pdf
i post the infos here and send it not to your mail, mabe other have the same problems.
:fing02:
here some pdf from my mediafire account for download.
only pics from my install, 4mb.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/yob0ldede8gsa81/only pics - catch can install by sox.pdf
here my install report from the german lx-forum, 29mb.
[http://www.mediafire.com/file/h6f1kmf6aug0ic4/german Catch Can install by sox.pdf
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1,299 Posts
n.p.:fing02:Thank you sox :arms: !!
I bought this student guide from DaimlerChrysler Academy, "Diesel Engine Repair", just arrived today
2006 07 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE MERCEDES 3.0L DIESEL MANUAL on eBay.ca (item 160494868718 end time 21-Oct-10 12:38:45 EDT)
not as detailed as I expected for $55, but the illustrations are good, it may be a useful book if you guys see it around.
anyway, it says there is a centrifrugal oil separator in the right bank intake camshaft that is supposed to separate the oil from the crankcase vapours before venting through the crankcase pressure control valve. I guess the centrifrugal oil separator doesn't really work all that well considering all the oil getting to the intake tube!
2006 07 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE MERCEDES 3.0L DIESEL MANUAL on eBay.ca (item 160494868718 end time 21-Oct-10 12:38:45 EDT)
not as detailed as I expected for $55, but the illustrations are good, it may be a useful book if you guys see it around.
anyway, it says there is a centrifrugal oil separator in the right bank intake camshaft that is supposed to separate the oil from the crankcase vapours before venting through the crankcase pressure control valve. I guess the centrifrugal oil separator doesn't really work all that well considering all the oil getting to the intake tube!
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a couple of his other books/CDs sound useful
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38 Posts
Working in the automotive manufactures I observe this:-
1) Diesel emissions and economy demand EGR (Exhaust gas re-circulation)
2) Manufacturers struggle like mad to get reliability out of the valve system.
3) No one has an answer yet, but the sales trade are starting to not recommend diesels for short runs
4) It is the combination of exhaust particals and oil mist that gum the valves
5) It is worse when cold, so short runs give more occurances
6) Any system that throws more oil in is going to be worse, but the exhaust gets it it the end.
7) Its the extra load of gummed valves on the motor and external heat that kills the motors.
8) The hotter the motor environment the more likely the failure.
So have we two faults here, motor fail under heat and second oil in the inlet helping gum the valves, so what im saying is have we jumped to a conclusion here that the motor dies because of the oil. Has anyone opened a dead motor to see the oil? How does oil get in if its sealed?
I know this seems an odd approach but why would Chrysler be any different to the rest of the industry whos EGR valves gum and motors die anyway?
And the oil leak O.K its not nice but is it the problem, every other turbo diesel ive seen ends up with some oil in the inlet system, how much is too much?
My guess is the motors will keep failing due to heat if you do long runs, anything sitting in that V is gonna get mightly hot, (seen the air inlet pipe that runs under the engine cover to try and cool it down?)and gummed valves if you do short runs.
My swill pot was done at 50k under warrenty I had noticed the oil leak at the back of the block but not under stood till i read here the great work been done to resolve the problems.....whats my solution?....dunno...Ill think about that.
1) Diesel emissions and economy demand EGR (Exhaust gas re-circulation)
2) Manufacturers struggle like mad to get reliability out of the valve system.
3) No one has an answer yet, but the sales trade are starting to not recommend diesels for short runs
4) It is the combination of exhaust particals and oil mist that gum the valves
5) It is worse when cold, so short runs give more occurances
6) Any system that throws more oil in is going to be worse, but the exhaust gets it it the end.
7) Its the extra load of gummed valves on the motor and external heat that kills the motors.
8) The hotter the motor environment the more likely the failure.
So have we two faults here, motor fail under heat and second oil in the inlet helping gum the valves, so what im saying is have we jumped to a conclusion here that the motor dies because of the oil. Has anyone opened a dead motor to see the oil? How does oil get in if its sealed?
I know this seems an odd approach but why would Chrysler be any different to the rest of the industry whos EGR valves gum and motors die anyway?
And the oil leak O.K its not nice but is it the problem, every other turbo diesel ive seen ends up with some oil in the inlet system, how much is too much?
My guess is the motors will keep failing due to heat if you do long runs, anything sitting in that V is gonna get mightly hot, (seen the air inlet pipe that runs under the engine cover to try and cool it down?)and gummed valves if you do short runs.
My swill pot was done at 50k under warrenty I had noticed the oil leak at the back of the block but not under stood till i read here the great work been done to resolve the problems.....whats my solution?....dunno...Ill think about that.
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113 Posts
Hi everyone I have been reading this post with a lot of interest, and as it works out as Kaiser Bill says the hotter the mesh gets the less efficient the separation is.
Considering this I have discovered an alternative here in Australia, its called PRO VENT 200 CRANKCASE BREATHER, it has an internal filter element to separate the oil from the crankcase air running through the breather, I would like to think heat does not effect it as much as a wire mesh arrangement.
The only draw back is it is larger then the can you are all using so finding room to fit it is a challenge. (It wont fit under the hood)
I have fitted mine on the drivers side (RHS of the car) on the chassis rail next to the steering rack and steering colum, I can take the hoses straight up to the engine (about 16”) I will run ¾ “(19mm) hose from the breather, it has 1” outlets (25mm).
The cans drain will be 1/2” (13mm) and I can direct it to the sump plug area so it can be accessed and drained into the wast oil when the car is serviced.
The unit will hold more oil than the smaller billit units.
I will post some pictures when I get it installed over the Christmas break. :fing02:
check these links and the attached PDF on the unit
Regards
WESTERN FILTERS items - Get great deals on PRO VENT 400 CRANKCASE BREATHER PROVENT TRUCK items on eBay Stores!
Air Filters, Oil Filters, Fuel Filters & Filter Cleaning Services - Western Filters offers a range of Filter products for comprehensive coverage for on-highway, off-highway, construction, agricultural, industrial, genset, lift trucks and marine equip
Considering this I have discovered an alternative here in Australia, its called PRO VENT 200 CRANKCASE BREATHER, it has an internal filter element to separate the oil from the crankcase air running through the breather, I would like to think heat does not effect it as much as a wire mesh arrangement.
The only draw back is it is larger then the can you are all using so finding room to fit it is a challenge. (It wont fit under the hood)
I have fitted mine on the drivers side (RHS of the car) on the chassis rail next to the steering rack and steering colum, I can take the hoses straight up to the engine (about 16”) I will run ¾ “(19mm) hose from the breather, it has 1” outlets (25mm).
The cans drain will be 1/2” (13mm) and I can direct it to the sump plug area so it can be accessed and drained into the wast oil when the car is serviced.
The unit will hold more oil than the smaller billit units.
I will post some pictures when I get it installed over the Christmas break. :fing02:
check these links and the attached PDF on the unit
Regards
WESTERN FILTERS items - Get great deals on PRO VENT 400 CRANKCASE BREATHER PROVENT TRUCK items on eBay Stores!
Air Filters, Oil Filters, Fuel Filters & Filter Cleaning Services - Western Filters offers a range of Filter products for comprehensive coverage for on-highway, off-highway, construction, agricultural, industrial, genset, lift trucks and marine equip
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I did look at those but couldn't see a space big enough to locate it. Will be good to some some photo's of your install.
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I ordered some of their oil resistant hose and I'm waiting for it to arrive then I can finish the install.
I guess I have an advantage,I have an automotive workshop and hoist to work on to fit the unit,it sits just above the lower transmission cover,I had to cut a small relief hole in the side of the cover to clear it where the regulator on the unit is
Here are two pictures of my progress, I'm coming out of the unit and 90deg and up to the engine along the firewall, the drain hose will exit in the gap under the sway bar, or along the cross member to the engine sump area.
I guess I have an advantage,I have an automotive workshop and hoist to work on to fit the unit,it sits just above the lower transmission cover,I had to cut a small relief hole in the side of the cover to clear it where the regulator on the unit is
Here are two pictures of my progress, I'm coming out of the unit and 90deg and up to the engine along the firewall, the drain hose will exit in the gap under the sway bar, or along the cross member to the engine sump area.
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113 Posts
I have finished installing the catch can, here are some of the final pictures.
I made a fitting to go into the engine with an O ring design like the original fitting and bolted it down with one of the existing bolt holes. But the method discribed in the forum for the can most are fitting will work as well.
The engine cover fits without any mods, and the rubber packing on the engine fits on without any mods as well.
The PROVENT 4WD PRO VENT 200 CRANKCASE BREATHER unit I’m using is fitted to the chassis just beside the steering rack, it is in a cool air stream and I would expect it to continue to condense the oil from the air more efficiently because it will be a lot cooler. The unit also has a filter inside it to help with the separation of oil and air.
I have inserted a link to the breather, it is made in Germany so I’m sure the members in Europe can find one. They are a larger unit but if you can fit it I’m sure it will do a very good job. I will post the result in about 5000kms
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
I made a fitting to go into the engine with an O ring design like the original fitting and bolted it down with one of the existing bolt holes. But the method discribed in the forum for the can most are fitting will work as well.
The engine cover fits without any mods, and the rubber packing on the engine fits on without any mods as well.
The PROVENT 4WD PRO VENT 200 CRANKCASE BREATHER unit I’m using is fitted to the chassis just beside the steering rack, it is in a cool air stream and I would expect it to continue to condense the oil from the air more efficiently because it will be a lot cooler. The unit also has a filter inside it to help with the separation of oil and air.
I have inserted a link to the breather, it is made in Germany so I’m sure the members in Europe can find one. They are a larger unit but if you can fit it I’m sure it will do a very good job. I will post the result in about 5000kms
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
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Great job, looks a pig to fit?? so how do you empty it?
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Nice job, it does look a pain to fit but it should work well. I am tempted to vent the return side of my catch can to the atmosphere and not have any crap going back through the intake.
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2,879 Posts
I thought of that but didnt want oil marks on the drive
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113 Posts
It has a pipe off the bottom of the unit going across to near the sum plug area with a tap on it. So it will be drained during normal service.
I hope to only empty it every service, the unit will hold quite a bit of oil. But, to be safe I will monitor it for awhile and see how much it collects.
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2,879 Posts
What fitting did you use to go into the back of the block?
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113 Posts
I made it up out of a 90 deg 3/4 fitting I found in our local hydraulic hose supply shop,and welded a sleve to the threaded end. I just machined the sleve to size and then machined an O ring grove into the end of the sleave before I welded it to the fitting. Then welded a bracket on it so the fitting would bolt to where the original fitting bolted down. It works well and is solid with no leaks so far. see the photo in my post,
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113 Posts
I have done about 20,000 kms since fitting the catch can and it's working well.
I get a lot if water out of it and about 50mm of oil each oil change (10,000 kms)
I did a service today and the turbo was oil free
I have also added a silicone T Piece onto the turbo from the intake tube
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
I get a lot if water out of it and about 50mm of oil each oil change (10,000 kms)
I did a service today and the turbo was oil free
I have also added a silicone T Piece onto the turbo from the intake tube
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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