Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If you want to save a few quid by changing the oil and air filter on your CRD's heres a quick guide on how to go about it for the novices - if you know already please regard this post.

Part numbers for filters can varey from shop to dealer - here are the part numbers from Ciceley Chrysler in Preston

air filter JK04861688AA £10.00
oil filter JK05175571AA £9.00
10 ltr Shell Helix 5w30 semi synth £30


First of all remove the air filter cover by unscrewing the jubilee clip were it attaches to air feed under the engine cover. Unclip the 3 spring loaded clips and disconnect the 2 wires that run to the upper casing on the filter. The filter element can be seen straight away and simply pulls out.



Then with a pair of large grips remove the oil filter cover which unscrews anti-clockwise. This is situated between the air filter and engine cover. Pull the element out slowly as its soaked in oil ( have a rag ready to drop the filter onto ) Remove the filter and replace the seals at the top and bottom of the oil filter holder. Dont put it back in yet until youve drained the oil from the sump.







Then lift the car up in the air and remove the plastic sump tray thats held on with 4 10mm bolts. This will give you access to the 13mm sump key. Drain the oil and refit the sump plug and the plastic sump guard.





Then lower the car and top up with 5w30's - should take about 9.2 lts. Refit the the oil filter and the air filter cover, connect the 2 wires back to the air filter casing and re-attach the hose back onto the airfeed. Check the level of oil and if its ok run the engine for 2 minutes to let the oil circulate. Then re-check the dip stick after and top up if nescessary. Make sure all the fastenings are tight and check everything once youve finished.

This takes about 30 mins from start to finish and will save you a few quid !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,730 Posts
Thanks for the very clear instructions with pics, Floyd.

Filter changing certainly looks a doddle. I like the way the oil filter is located at the top of the engine and only the paper element is replaced (just like on cars I drove many years ago). I've always thought it wasteful to have to chuck away the canister every time.

Just one observation: how do you torque the oil filter cap to 25N-m?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,851 Posts
dont forget to wear protective gloves,diesel oil stains your skin and is carsonagenic....dangerous...and dont forget to dispose of the waste oil and filter correctly

25nm is not that much,just tighten it till it wont go any more,but obviously not too tight,its easy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,431 Posts
Not that I will start changing oil myself any soon, but it is good to know how it works. This has been very helpful and interesting. Thanks "Floyd"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
All good stuff and useful photos. Only thing is, I'm not sure I'd want to attack the plastic oil filter cover with a pair of grips. There must be a special tool for it (large socket), most likely available from Mercedes. Then you can use a torque wrench when doing it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,730 Posts
According to the workshop manual, the correct part is a "9551 Oil Filter Socket". However, I would agree that firm hand-tight is probably OK. That's all I've ever done on other cars without any problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
461 Posts
Nice one Floyd :fing02:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Other than the Shell Helix what other low ash oils are suitable for the CRD?

What should I be looking for on the pack to make sure I am putting suitable stuff in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
655 Posts
Can I just ask forclarification on the oil? You said "10 ltr Shell Helix 5w30 semi synth £30". The only Shell Helix 5w30 I can find specified is fully synth and it does have the right MB certification for the CRD. But did you really get 10L from a dealer for £30?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Well at least someone is using the search function!
That will be me then.
Did my service yesterday and all went well, except I wasn't really prepared for the deluge of oil from the sump, not easy to catch. next time I will use one of those big plastic under bed storage trays, and modify with a drain tap.

Thanks for the oil spec link very useful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
changing filters on 300c.

Ouch!! - even taking into account the age of the first post on the thread I was still struck dumb to be charged £21.57 for the air filter and £15.35 for the oil filter ( plus vat )at Murrays of Glasgow yesterday!!
Can I seek clarification as to the preferred engine oil to use? Castrol Edge gets mentioned in various places but in both the 0w30 and 5w30 format. Opinions as to which is correct welcomed?
I also enquired about the replacement for the flawed "orange" seal on the turbo inlet assuming it would be a like for like replacement but was told I need to buy the full inlet pipe also at £140'ish which seems a bit rich. I understood, perhaps wrongly, it would be just the seal involved?
Last question, slightly off topic, on my last car, a LR Discovery 3, it was discovered ( pun ) by owners on the various LR forums that the MAF ( mass air flow sensor ) had a habit of getting bunged up by gunk from the turbo inlet and that cleaning it improved performance and fuel consumption slightly. Accepting that it may be of different design of course, is that something to be looked for on the 300c crd? Thanks gents. nick
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,325 Posts
I've found this site very useful, even though I've bought nothing from them - its full of little titbits

Engine Oil, Motor Oil, Gear Oil, Car Oil, Motorbike Oil from oilman at Opie Oils

you need 5w-30

Mercedes branded filters are made by Hengst - since this is a MB engine, you may be well advised to search for the Hengst equivalent which sell for 40% less than the MB filter (on this car, they seem to be about a tenner). They do the air filter too- I'm guessing the Chrysler part will have a similar price differential. On opening up filters, it seems that Mann also make one of the best oem filters. On chopping open dozens of filters, a guy in the States found Baldwin are best made....I know they can be found over here, but I havent yet looked up the fitments

http://www.hengst-catalog.com/en/se...um=3.0&types=0,0,0,0,0,0,0&restrictions=0,0,0&


edit - its baldwin P7413
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,730 Posts
I wasn't really prepared for the deluge of oil from the sump, not easy to catch. next time I will use one of those big plastic under bed storage trays, and modify with a drain tap.
Have you considered pumping out the oil via the dipstick tube? I have used this method successfully on my Audi for the past few years, as I've had enough of crawling under cars and getting sleeves full of oil. Haven't attempted any servicing on the 300C yet, whilst its been under warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,192 Posts
Have you considered pumping out the oil via the dipstick tube? I have used this method successfully on my Audi for the past few years, as I've had enough of crawling under cars and getting sleeves full of oil. Haven't attempted any servicing on the 300C yet, whilst its been under warranty.
Funny you should say that, I've been watching this recently:

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top