So, I just spent an hour or so under my Cool Vanilla C and have some info that I'd like to share for those of you who will be doing this eventually. Note that if you follow these instructions and still manage to mess something up, it's not my fault, so don't come whining to me.
To change the oil in your 300C, you'll need the following:
After you get the car in the air (as I said above, ramps work great on this car) and properly secured, you need to get under there and remove a plastic cover that shields the entire bottom of the engine. It's held in place by four annoying little 10mm head bolts that are driven into clip-nuts (probably to make 'em easy to replace when some bozo strips 'em out). These take a few minutes to get out because they're deep-threaded and wobbly, but after they come out, the guard comes off easy.
After the guard is off, the filter is in an obvious location on the passenger's side of the engine. It points straight down, which is really nice from the standpoint of keeping the motor clean when you take it off. Mine was already seeping a little oil around the filter seal from the factory, but it wasn't too bad. First, take out the oil drain plug (13mm head bolt easily accessible) and let most of the oil drain out. Be careful, it flows pretty strong if it's warm.
After most of the oil is out, you can take the filter off. A cap-style filter wrench would be optimal, but you can get a band style on it from the side if you're clever (go up above the frame rail). Thread it off carefully and discard it. Then you can prep the new filter by pouring about half a quart of oil into it and rubbing some around the rubber seal. Install the new filter very carefully: don't spill any oil or cross-thread the filter. . . it should spin on with almost no force. Tighten only hand tight if you're fairly strong: if not, you can snug it down a bit with a filter wrench, but then all your friends will think you're a wuss.
With the new filter on, the pan should be almost dry: go ahead and clean and replace the drain plug. Again, watch the torque. . . new drain plugs will seal up nice while just snug + about 1/4 turn.
I pulled the Hemi cover off in the engine bay to put the oil in because (a) it's really easy to take off and on: just pull gently and (b) once off, the oil fill neck is elevated and easy to wrap a drip rag around eliminating the need for a funnel.
After you have the oil fill cap off and the fill neck well protected from spills, go ahead and dump in the remaining 6 and 1/2 quarts of your favorite oil (I used Mobil 1 0w20). After you're done, go ahead and replace the fill cap, the engine cover, and wipe up the engine bay if you dripped anywhere (or if it's just dusty.)
Note that you shouldn't have put the bottom engine cover back on yet: you'll want to start and run the engine for a couple of minutes and check the drain plug and the filter for signs of seepage or leaks. After you're sure it's okay, you can double-check the level on the dipstick (should be fine), and go ahead and replace the bottom engine cover, but be really careful not to torque those 10mm bolts too much: then only take 35 in-lbs, which is nothing: just snug them up. After you get the tools out from under the car, the oil put away, and the car down on the ground, you'll be done!
So, there ya go. The first documented 300C Hemi oil change that I know of. I hope that someone finds the information useful.
fathemi
To change the oil in your 300C, you'll need the following:
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- a large filter wrench
- 7 (yes seven!) quarts of your favorite oil (5w20 recommended)
- oil filter (stock part #05281090, Purolator Pure One #PL14670 (same as the 300M))
- some way to get the front of the car in the air (ramps work great)
- a big oil catch container (7 quarts, after all )
After you get the car in the air (as I said above, ramps work great on this car) and properly secured, you need to get under there and remove a plastic cover that shields the entire bottom of the engine. It's held in place by four annoying little 10mm head bolts that are driven into clip-nuts (probably to make 'em easy to replace when some bozo strips 'em out). These take a few minutes to get out because they're deep-threaded and wobbly, but after they come out, the guard comes off easy.
After the guard is off, the filter is in an obvious location on the passenger's side of the engine. It points straight down, which is really nice from the standpoint of keeping the motor clean when you take it off. Mine was already seeping a little oil around the filter seal from the factory, but it wasn't too bad. First, take out the oil drain plug (13mm head bolt easily accessible) and let most of the oil drain out. Be careful, it flows pretty strong if it's warm.
After most of the oil is out, you can take the filter off. A cap-style filter wrench would be optimal, but you can get a band style on it from the side if you're clever (go up above the frame rail). Thread it off carefully and discard it. Then you can prep the new filter by pouring about half a quart of oil into it and rubbing some around the rubber seal. Install the new filter very carefully: don't spill any oil or cross-thread the filter. . . it should spin on with almost no force. Tighten only hand tight if you're fairly strong: if not, you can snug it down a bit with a filter wrench, but then all your friends will think you're a wuss.
With the new filter on, the pan should be almost dry: go ahead and clean and replace the drain plug. Again, watch the torque. . . new drain plugs will seal up nice while just snug + about 1/4 turn.
I pulled the Hemi cover off in the engine bay to put the oil in because (a) it's really easy to take off and on: just pull gently and (b) once off, the oil fill neck is elevated and easy to wrap a drip rag around eliminating the need for a funnel.
After you have the oil fill cap off and the fill neck well protected from spills, go ahead and dump in the remaining 6 and 1/2 quarts of your favorite oil (I used Mobil 1 0w20). After you're done, go ahead and replace the fill cap, the engine cover, and wipe up the engine bay if you dripped anywhere (or if it's just dusty.)
Note that you shouldn't have put the bottom engine cover back on yet: you'll want to start and run the engine for a couple of minutes and check the drain plug and the filter for signs of seepage or leaks. After you're sure it's okay, you can double-check the level on the dipstick (should be fine), and go ahead and replace the bottom engine cover, but be really careful not to torque those 10mm bolts too much: then only take 35 in-lbs, which is nothing: just snug them up. After you get the tools out from under the car, the oil put away, and the car down on the ground, you'll be done!
So, there ya go. The first documented 300C Hemi oil change that I know of. I hope that someone finds the information useful.
fathemi