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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a month ago, my check engine light came on. The first thing I did was check the gas cap and, sure enough, it was loose. I tightened it and the light went away after a few cycles. Here in New Jersey, it's against the law to pump our own gas, so a careless attendent was at fault.

A couple weeks later, the check engine light came back on. Nuts! I figured there must be something wrong with my gas cap not sealing properly, made an appointment, and waited for them to complete a quick repair. Nearly 3 hours later, I got my car back with a new ignition coil #7 and a couple of spark plugs replaced. Apparently, the gas cap incident was coincidental.

The car felt better and had more power. Cool. But a day later, the check engine light came back on. Using the trick I learned here about turnign the key 3 times between run and accessory, I was able to read the code. It was a P2320, exactly the same code that the dealer pulled before swapping the coil and plugs. I brought the car back the next day. After having the car all day, they decided I needed some new control module and gave me back the car while we waited for the parts to arrive. They expect them in the middle of next week. They claim there must be a "short" in the ECU.

It seems to me that they are simply throwing parts at the problem in the hopes it will keep the check engine light off. If it's not the coil, then it must be the ECU. I dont' have much faith in this, especially since the coil replacement did improve the engine's power and response. I can't believe an ECU short would just happen to cause a P2320 the day after a replacement of a defective ignition coil #7.

I don't beleive in coincidences, which is why I also mentioned the gas cap incident. Does anyone have any similar experiences or ideas as to what the problem may be?

To throw another wrench into this, the check engine light was cleared at the dealer. It's been two days since then and I've driven the car pretty hard. The light has not come back on. I hate intermittant problems!
 

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Hmm, sounds like it maybe an issue with the wire harness. I know SRT-4s have a problem with the main engine harness, where three grounds all come together, causes a TPS fault. Replacing the sensor sometimes fixes it for a while, it did on mine from 12K to 50K.

At 50K I replaced the harness, all is well.

We also had a rash early on of grounds for injectors going bad.

I would look close at the harness before the PCM.
 

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Sounds like they didn't clear the light the first time, after replacing the coil.

This experience is common. Not enough techs with good electronic training.

When the first 300's came out, there were problems with the gauge cluster readings. Service departments were ripping out clusters and installing new ones. But the clusters weren't faulty. It was a bug in the software - easily fixed with a flash, and well documented with a TSB.

Your problem may be already fixed, Dave. But, I guess a new ECU won't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Northern Rider said:
Sounds like they didn't clear the light the first time, after replacing the coil.

This experience is common. Not enough techs with good electronic training.

When the first 300's came out, there were problems with the gauge cluster readings. Service departments were ripping out clusters and installing new ones. But the clusters weren't faulty. It was a bug in the software - easily fixed with a flash, and well documented with a TSB.

Your problem may be already fixed, Dave. But, I guess a new ECU won't hurt.
The light was cleared. It was off for 24 hours and then it reappeared the next day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DZeckhausen said:
The light was cleared. It was off for 24 hours and then it reappeared the next day.
The saga continues. My gas milage has been averaging about 12 MPG since the check engine light first came on. A few days ago, the engine PCM arrived at the dealership and I brought my car in for appointment number 3. Two days later, I get the car back and everything seemed fine, other than an incredible amount of dirt, grease and muddy footprints all over the floor, center console and driver's door. Have they no pride?

Today the check engine light is back on again!! :AR15firin

This time, however, the code is a new one. It reads P0455. I looked that up and it's supposedly a "leak detection pump" error. Is this related in any way to the original problem, or did those jerks knock something loose when they replaced the PCM? And if they did break something else, why did it take a day to pop a check engine light?

This is getting old fast. I'm bringing the car in on Monday for the 4th service visit for the same (I think) problem. Any ideas?
 

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P0455 is an evaporative purge system large leak. The manual says:

Perform a visual and physical inspection of the entire Evaporative Emission system.
Check for the follow conditions:
- Holes or cracks
- Loose seal points
- Evidence of damaged components
- Incorrect routing of hoses and tubes
- Fuel Cap gasket seal

If everything is OK visually there is a more extensive test procedure to run of the system, but it sounds to me that it may be as simple as your gas cap not being on tight...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
kampsvilleboy said:
P0455 is an evaporative purge system large leak. The manual says:

Perform a visual and physical inspection of the entire Evaporative Emission system.
Check for the follow conditions:
- Holes or cracks
- Loose seal points
- Evidence of damaged components
- Incorrect routing of hoses and tubes
- Fuel Cap gasket seal

If everything is OK visually there is a more extensive test procedure to run of the system, but it sounds to me that it may be as simple as your gas cap not being on tight...
Given that it was just in the shop for the last two days, I'm betting they put something back together wrong. Haven't had to fuel the car up since the service and I just checked the gas cap anyway. No problems there.

Anyone know where the PCM is located so I can check around that spot for anything obvious?
 

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Hi Dave, it's under the hood passenger side behind the wheel well. It's under the plastic grill near the hinge. :wink1:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So the car went back in to the shop for the 4th time today. In the late afternoon, I received a call letting me know that they had ordered a new "leak detection pump" which would arrive tomorrow. So they kept the car and I will hopefully have it back tomorrow. They think the leak detection pump failure was coincidental and had nothing to do with the other repairs. We'll see about that. If my car still gets 12 MPG, I think it might be time to invoke the Lemon Law.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, the car is back in my hands this morning. The check engine light is out and it seems to drive OK. We'll see how long that lasts and if my gas mileage finally starts to climb above 12 MPG.

The repair sheet says:

LABOR-------------------------------------------
Customer states check engine light on
See history - poor mileage
P0455 EVAP system large leak. NVLP forced monitor
Test fail. Bad LDP pump was found
Replace NVLD pump

PARTS-------------------------------------------
QTY(1) 4891427-AB Detector 14073007
QTY(5) 34201631 Retainer 23043014
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The mileage has still been terrible, not even reaching 19mpg on a long trip with all highway miles. Last week, the check engine light came on AGAIN and it was the same "P2320" code - Ignition Coil 7 Secondary Circuit.

I picked the car up today after four days in the shop. This time, they replaced the engine wire harness. (p/n 4759980-AH). The check engine light is out for now. We'll see if it comes back yet again. After replacing the coils and plugs, the engine control computer, and finally, the wire harness, I don't think there's anything left!

The good news is that they also fixed my rear power window. It was a broken cable, so they swapped out the regulator. (p/n 5065473-AB) They also replaced 6 rivets and a door plug. After the repair, a mysterious "rolling marble" sound that had haunted my car for months went away. I suspect it was a loose part that was rolling around in the left rear door.

They also cured the clicking sound coming from my front suspension. It turned out to be a rock trapped in the lower A-arm.

It was nice to drive around today with a quiet, fully functioning car with no warning lights on the dash. Now I have to spend some time removing muddy footprints from the carpet, greasy fingerprints from the door panels and dash, and a layer of dirt that accumulated over four days of the car sitting outside. The car was freshly washed and waxed when I dropped it off for service. Now it looks like it hasn't been washed in weeks. At least I don't see bits of rubber tire on the rear fenders (from joyriding burnouts) or cigarette butts in the ashtray!

LABOR-------------------------------------------
Customer states check engine light on
P2320 IGNITION COIL 7 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
Replace Engine Wire Harness

PARTS-------------------------------------------
QTY(1) 4759980-AH Wiring EN 8015002


LABOR-------------------------------------------
Customer states driver's side rear window inop
Broken Cable
Replace Left Rear Window Regulator

PARTS-------------------------------------------
QTY(3) WX68BD1-AA Rivet NON 18050043
QTY(3) WX68DX9-AA Rivet NON 18050043
QTY(1) 1AE55BD1-AA Plug Door 23032098
QTY(1) 5065473-AB Regulator 23039005

 

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Sounds like you need a priest. That or an exorciser.



DZeckhausen said:
The mileage has still been terrible, not even reaching 19mpg on a long trip with all highway miles.
As far as your bad mileage try the following procedure:

1. You need a fairly long, open, safe, straight road for a WOT run to about 35 mph.
2. Get engine up to operating temp., engine running and car stopped put selector in "D", move it to the right until in "1".
3. Turn off all electrical accessories (except lights if needed).
4. WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from accelerator and do not depress the brake, let the vehicle coast with the throttle closed until the vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.
5. Stop vehicle and place in "Park", verify all instrument cluster warning indicators are off.
6. Cycle ignition switch "Off" and back "On"


This is very easy to do. It got my MDS working again. I was getting 17 or 18 mpg at 60 with cruise, only 10-12 in normal driving......I did the above and highway mileage instantly went up into the 20s, normal driving 16-18.

There is a long thread that deals with this: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8356&page=1&pp=10
 

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EVAP leak? Sounds too me like the gas station attendants have been topping off your tank after it's full. Why in the world does NJ law not let you pump gas and even more curious why don't the citizens do something to stop it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
marlinspike said:
EVAP leak? Sounds too me like the gas station attendants have been topping off your tank after it's full. Why in the world does NJ law not let you pump gas and even more curious why don't the citizens do something to stop it?
When I first came to NJ in 1986, I was indignant at being told by the state government that I was too stupid to pump my own gas. After living here for 20 years, I have become used to the luxury of sitting inside my warm car during a blizzard while someone else fills the tank, yet still enjoying some of the lowest gas prices in the country. For the most part, the Exxon and Mobil attendents at the stations I frequent are very respectful of the car and it's extremely rare that they ever click the handle a few times to squeeze more gas into the car. I wouldn't trade this system for anything. If we were charged more for gas than surrounding states, I might complain. But we have it made in the shade (literally)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
frank29 said:
As far as your bad mileage try the following procedure:

1. You need a fairly long, open, safe, straight road for a WOT run to about 35 mph.
2. Get engine up to operating temp., engine running and car stopped put selector in "D", move it to the right until in "1".
3. Turn off all electrical accessories (except lights if needed).
4. WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from accelerator and do not depress the brake, let the vehicle coast with the throttle closed until the vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.
5. Stop vehicle and place in "Park", verify all instrument cluster warning indicators are off.
6. Cycle ignition switch "Off" and back "On"


This is very easy to do. It got my MDS working again. I was getting 17 or 18 mpg at 60 with cruise, only 10-12 in normal driving......I did the above and highway mileage instantly went up into the 20s, normal driving 16-18.

There is a long thread that deals with this: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8356&page=1&pp=10
How could I have missed this thread??? I would think everyone on the board would be talking about this one. I must be blind.

I went out to do the reset procedure, half wondering if I was the victim of a late April Fools joke. After following the instructions, I ran around a 5 mile test loop that I've been using to test my gas mileage. Before, it was coming up around 12.1 mpg. After doing the MDS reset, I managed 18.1 mpg. I have never seen such a high number since owning the car. I'm floored. I can't wait to try driving the car on the highway this weekend. To think of all the gas I've wasted for the last year!

Who was the stupid engineer at DCX that decided that MDS would shut off every time the battery was disconnected and could only be reset with a scan tool or a weird sequence of steps that would never occur by chance? What were they thinking?
 
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