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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem with uncle 300c. Something gets 2amp electricity. My uncle pulled some fuse in the box in the trunk , now fuse electricity consumption drops to zero. He pulled the fuse for 6 months and damaged socket. A car electrician brought the fuse on the wires outside the box. I do not know which number it was but some thirty. How do I take off is not working, inter alia, central locking with remote control. What could it be?
Lights from the ineteriar light removed. How to take out the dashboard also decreases power consumption. Once in a chrysler sebring I had a damaged ignition switch. Looking for a wiring diagram and description of the fuse box.
Thanks in advance
Adam
 

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If the trunk lid is open when measuring the 2 amp battery drain it's probably the trunk light!

Get the number of the fuse of the earlier problem fuse, and come back here and tell us what it is, and we'll go from there.
 

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According to the service manual for 2005 fuses 15 and 16 are both 20 amp.
By comparison of your picture and the PDC (power delivery center) diagram in the service manual I can confirm that the location you have circled in the picture is for fuses 15 and 16. As they are both 20A it doesn't matter which is which.
Fuse 15 is for "MODULE-BRAKE (5.7L TRAILER TOW)", and is shown on service manual page 8W-51-4. It appears to be dedicated just to the towing package.
Fuse 16 is for "POWER OUTLET - REAR", and is shown on service manual page 8W-41-2, which also appears to provide power to the horn and cigar lighter.

With this information you can start replacing Fuses 15 & 16 (on at a time) and track down the offending branch circuit with the 2A battery drain.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hello. I Repair vehicle electronics, radio-code, crash and aibags etc. He does not know that it was a fuse. A car electrician pulled the fuse on the wires as shown in the picture. It could be anyone, which is empty space. My uncle says that probably 15 or 16 it was. How do I pulled out the fuse, which is now on the wires current consumption drops to zero. Surely then stops working, central locking and what I do not know. Maybe you can walk this path, which was once the number of fuse.

This is a one fuse. I think it could be anyone, which is missing in the fuse box. Uncle still pulled it damaged the socket. The image shows that there are few empty seats. And that the electrician did six months ago that my uncle does not remember who it was. I need wire diagram.
I don't have service manual.
 

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What ever that thing is that the electrician piggybacked on the fuse block is in the location where a spare relay is supposed to be. Could be he rewire things on the bottom side of the fuse block.

I'll see what I can do to scan the service manual diagrams and get them to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It is the No. 14 fuse. I found cut cables with him! Sentry Key/Remote Keyless Entry/Cluster
 

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But I was wrong. When you unplugged the first white plug from dash current decreases to 0. Yellow-red wire . I noticed again that when the battery voltage drops to about 10v a current consumption drops to zero. I do not know whether this instrument cluster or something which she feeds. For me, a module is not sleepy. I took out the radio, unplugged the ignition, air-conditioning control panel and nothing. Still 2amp. Please help.
 

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Your flurry of activity has left me lost in a tangle of unplugged wires. I think you need to slow down so as to trace one issue at a time. I got your reply to my PM. Let's continue this discussion via e-mail.
 

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Your flurry of activity has left me lost in a tangle of unplugged wires. I think you need to slow down so as to trace one issue at a time. I got your reply to my PM. Let's continue this discussion via e-mail.
Hi,

I have exact the same battery drain on a 300c of 2006

I narrowed it down to the remote key controller, on the key ignition.

When I disconnect that module, the car goes to sleep and the drain is gone.
But with the module connected, can signal keeps comming out of this module causing not going to sleep.
And then it drains 2,5A
Any help?
 

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Have you got a code reader.
You could have some standing communication error codes ("U" Codes) on the CAN Bus which could tell you which of the modules is not talking properly to the system.

Either the Air Conditioning, Instrument Cluster or Sentry Key Modules are not going to sleep it appears.
Total drain on battery should drop to about 0.06Amps after about 45 seconds of turning ignition off but be about 3 Amp on first turning off.

From the above post a prime suspect is the Remote Keyless Entry System. The module itself may be faulty or you may just have lost communication on one of the 2 wires on the CAN BUS.

I would definitley check for error codes if you can get access to a code reader.

I dont suppose you have had new keys recently, or anything done to the locking system.

Jack
 

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After disconnecting the module near ignition key, I believe remote sentry module/immo, the battery usage drops slowly down to 0,04A.

I did read fault memory with a bosch KTS, read intruments, motor ecu, central convenience and other,
No faults are stored. Maybe I can also read can-bus faults, will check tomorrow.

At start, I pulled out fuse 14, what resulted in the car going to rest, usage down to 0,04A
Put 14 back, disconnected radio, amplifier, instrument cluster and airco panel. All sources used some power, but still about 1A usage left.

Connected everything again and disconnected the sentry module, usage was gone.
Used a scope on the 2 canbus wires, no signal, so it was in sleep.
But when I reconnected the sentry module, canbus keeps alive. Waited half an hour and still the same drain of 2,5A. Also on the canbus signal keeps coming, I believe out of that module.

I only have 1 key, and also removed the battery out of that key and put it away from the car, because I don't know of the module keeps searching for the key? Car was locked at that time also for 30 minutes.

I will post a picture of the module.
 

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I dont want to give you the wrong impression. I am no expert on 300C cars or cars in general. I'm an electronics man from the TV and Power Station field.

I dont genrally like going to dealers but I think this is the type of fault where you need the proper diagnostic tool (Starscan). Think it will point to the faulty area very quickly.

Could it be the other end of the Can-bus wires ?
Module itself, or requires software re-flashing ?


You are definitley in the right area but it will be very difficult to diagnose without the right "Magic Box".

The Torquepro Andriod App definitley reads communication fault codes though.


Jack
 

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I do have torque pro on my sgs3, will try tomorrow.
I will also check again with the Bosch KTS diagnostic tester.
Maybe I'll find a fault code.
 

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I also have this 2A drain from fuse 14 and it seams like it is the Sentry Module that is the problem.


I would really like to know if its possible to buy a new (or used) Sentry Module and just plug that in. Or is it necessary to buy a new one (or used) and have it programmed by the dealership to make it Work with the key?


:)
Bo
 

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Hi.
When I pulled out the plug from the cluster selected in the picture, the current falls to 0 I found the cut-off ignition module. I took out the fuse from the module but nothing that has not changed.
Did you find any solution? I am experiencing the same issue. Detaching the Sentry/Ignition did not help. Detaching the large gray connector on the cluster did drop the drainage from 0.66a to .06a, directly and stable. I did not test the white connector, you've mentioned, yet. Right now I will look in the manuals for the purpose of this connector.
 
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