In seconds you'll get a feel for pressure. Light for light grime, and pretty firm for stuck on tar and bird stains. It won't scratch as long as it's wet. You need to frequently fold the clay to expose fresh clay and pick off any obvious chunks of grime and if you drop it consider it ruined. I spot clay all the time, I just did a tar spot wedged at the crevice of the door handle, I had to form the clay to fit in the crevice and used it like dental floss, took a lot of wet rubbing. On a new car clay the entire thing and of course clay any time before waxing. You will be amazed at the crap that comes off with the clay, you can feel it and hear it. I use a spray bottle with water and a little (1/2 capful) of soap du jour (I use Zaino). spray as needed to keep it wet, you can't be too wet. There is a full discussion in a wax thread (what wax will you use), search for additional details or you can PM me.Simon Templar said:Having not used clays before, this may be a stupid question....
My 300C is less than a week old, and God knows the dealer couldn't have been bothered with putting wax on it for delivery. So I am planning on spending the day tomrrow doing all of the cleaning (inside and out) and waxing that the dealer should have done.
Precisely how much pressure should I put on the clay as I use it? And how much lubricant is enough for each section?
[email protected] said:some people "spot clay" with every wash, nothing wrong with keeping the surface clean
i would not use the dish soap
all that does is dry out your paint. when you really want to polish, wax/seal your paint, you let me know and i can give you some tips.
Same here, Zaino recommends original Blue Dawn to degrease as well.300Con23s said:Your only suppose to use it when your putting a new layer of wax which should only be once in your cars lifetime. I used dishsoap to remove the cheap .
Soapy water is just fine. You don't want the clay grabbing. I've even heard of people using plain water. I've used clay lube and I have also clayed after washing the car but before the rinse.Simon Templar said:That's my question as well, Gary. Most Clay makers seems to suggest using a spray with a wax in it. Yet. a number of people report using water and soap.
....or does it really matter as long as it is a lubrication of some type?
Yes, always clay after washing as not to pick up unecessary grime on the clay, the clay is to get off residual stuck on grime that is left after washing, also sap, tar, bug splats etc. Rinse after clay, dry and polish.C-Man said:Soapy water is just fine. You don't want the clay grabbing. I've even heard of people using plain water. I've used clay lube and I have also clayed after washing the car but before the rinse.
Thanks Gary, I know I had read it somewhere, now I recall it was at your site when my piggy bank starts gaining weight I'll place an order from your site.. thanks for the all the details you have provided us with.turbomangt said:I would suggest using a mild paint cleaner to be safe. That will prep the car for your final coat. go to my web site for more info. Gary
Meguiar's is a great clay bar kit but don't use dish soap to wash your car.... at:Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit is a good off the shelf kit to buy. If you have a full day to spend soon, wash the car with dish washing soap first. It removes all existing wax. Hand dry with soft cloths. Clay bar entire painted surface. Apply a hand wax. Meguiar's Gold Class is a nice kit, as well. I use both these, myself. My SS is white so the finish and feel are amazing IMO. After complete, you could either use a California Duster for daily/weekly maintenance or use the Meguiar's Quick Detail Spray with a soft cloth. Trust me, your 300s will give it that extra special look.