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Discussion Starter #1
My climate control is showing an odd pattern, whilst in warm up heat will come through for a while - it then thinks the cabin is warm enough (it is not) and blows progressivly cooler, I chase the temp setting as I drive further round to 26 degrees to get warmth through.

There seems to be a few posts saying similar but without a solution, I initially thought blocked coolant passages but flushed and refilled with HOAT to eliminate, mind you it does take forever to reach operating temperature...

I know the outside temp sensor is by the grill and seems to read ok on the dash, I know there is a strange little window sensor on the HVAC which I have cleaned - is there an actual cabin temperature sensor?

Any thoughts appreciated as it gets colder!!!
 

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I know there is a strange little window sensor on the HVAC which I have cleaned - is there an actual cabin temperature sensor?
This is the infra-red cabin temp. sensor.

Are you sure you removed all the air from the system when you changed the coolant? I haven't tried this myself, but understand bleeding can be tricky.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes pretty sure as if I set to full heat it works, knock it down to 25 degrees - cool air regardless, maybe the blend actuator for hot cold or the actual HVAC, puzzling.
 

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mind you it does take forever to reach operating temperature...
Diesels do take a while to warm up. By "operating temperature", do you mean the steady state engine temp as shown on the instrument gauge? If it's taking "forever" and especially at this time of the year, during mild weather, then maybe the engine thermostat has failed in the open position. Are you aware that the CRD is fitted with a 1 kW electric cabin heater? This comes into play to accelerate cabin heating whilst the engine is warming up. Perhaps this electric heater is providing the initial heat, but then switches off well before the engine has reached operating temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would have thought the engine would run cool if stuck open, it does reach the whisper under halfway mark but after probably 20 mins driving or longer if just left idling on the drive.
 

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A full explanation of how the climate control system works would be very useful...

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
 

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I would have thought the engine would run cool if stuck open, it does reach the whisper under halfway mark but after probably 20 mins driving or longer if just left idling on the drive.
You also need to consider the effect of the cooling fan(s), which may not be energised until the thermostat is fully open. If the thermostat is stuck open, then operating temperature may still be reached, but will take longer. 20 mins seems too long at this time of year, or even in winter conditions. Idling times will be much longer.
 

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A full explanation of how the climate control system works would be very useful...
There's plenty of info in the service manual, but it's aimed at the techy equipped with a diagnostic tool. What it lacks is a concise summary of how the complete system operates; for instance the links between cooling fans operation and electric cabin heater operation are not described, other than both being controlled by the ECU.
 

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There's plenty of info in the service manual, but it's aimed at the techy equipped with a diagnostic tool. What it lacks is a concise summary of how the complete system operates; for instance the links between cooling fans operation and electric cabin heater operation are not described, other than both being controlled by the ECU.
Maybe the initial heat is coming from the electric heater and nothing at all is coming from the coolant water?
 

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Didn't you recently report a turbo noise? I would check the plumbing for leaks and also the air filter for blockage.

With regard to the cooling problem, try replacing the thermostat to see if that makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yes it has made some noises intermittently, actuator is off and being tested / repaired in the morning so hopefully just that, found out no recalls have been done either so once the turbo is ok thats next...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Turbo actuator fitted and no codes so far so hopefully another fix from the ever growing list - todays task is washer bottle sensor to get rid of another chime! (now done)

Owning this car reminds me of cars I bought when I was 20 that spent more time with the bonnet open than closed! If the 300 did no look so iconic and pleasing to the eye my patience would have gone a while back, its like a hobby / project more than a modern car for reliable transport. The CEL and ETC light bulbs are flawlessly reliable in illuminating regularly :)

Since September:

SWIRL
TURBO ACTUATOR
LOOM USUAL PLACE
RADIO REPAIRED BBA REMAN
SEATS REPAIRED
WASHER SENSOR
REAR PAD CAME IN HALF
HIDS REPLACED
TURBO CHARGED PIPE O RING
TWO DIESEL PIPES
UNDERSEALED RUSTY FLOOR
GEARBOX OIL CHANGE
BRAKE FLUID CHANGE
OIL CHANGE
AIR / CABIN FILTER
COOLANT CHANGE
MAP LIGHT
CLOCK BULBS

TO DO - THERMOSTAT / TPMS ALL ROUND funds allowing!
 

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If you're doing all the TPMS sensors it's worth looking at USA ebay sellers for genuine 433MHz Mopar sensors, the shipping will be less painful for four than for one. But take a careful look at the date codes on the labels (assuming the photographed items are the ones being supplied) as it's probably not worth buying sensors older than the ones you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I have tried without success to see if any UK dealers with a starscan will turn it off, most are not interested and others clueless, I have even sent some the TSB from Chrysler on how to disable on older (06 / 07) models. Not an MOT issue for cars made prior to 2012 but they just wont / cant. So yes at some point funds allowing its four new ones. Had not thought of ordering from the US - thanks.
 

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Hello guys!
I know the post is 2 years old, but i found the cause for this problem and I thought to share it for others who still have it or will have it.
I just bought a 2012 Lancia Thema with this problem and i had a bad Humidity sensor, i changed it thinking thats it, the error cleared, recirculate came back to life, but still freezed to death after some random period of time. I bought a cloned diag interface and watched all the sensors, then on HVAC i found the Cabin Temperature Sensor with a read of 30.5 degrees Celsius when in the cabin where actually 14 degrees Celsius. That sensor is bad and as its only a temp sensor, it doesnt trigger any error, it just lie to HVAC and the unit tries to get them cabin temp down. The part number is 55111178AC.
The sensor is located on the panel on under the steering column, bottom right (facing your right knee), you can see the grill holes. I ordered mine, will, mount it tomorrow and monitor the situation.
 

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Presumably this tool is fairly new on the market, as I have not seen it mentioned on this forum before now. It would appear to be a clone - probably unauthorised - of the Mopar Starscan. There are many sellers listed on the Web, with one of them selling for £108 and accompanying photos displaying "MOPAR" and "Made in USA" labels.
 

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I don't know if its new or not as I just bought the car, but its called Mopar Micropod II and it comes with the wiTECH Diagnostic Application, which you can use only Offline. The wiTECH Diagnostic Application has also some Online features, but you can access them unless you have a paid account at wiTECH or Mopar. Yes, the unit comes with those "MOPAR" and "Made in USA" labels. Here are some pictures of mine.
 
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