marnepup said:
cryo treated rotors are junk science...no more helpful (except for the person making a bundle of money) than nitrogen in your tires.
Agreed. Rather than write this all up again, here's a link to my thoughts on the subject:
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/120089-post11.html
And to save you a mouse click, here's the text of that post:
4DRHTRD said:
If you don't know anything about cryo treated rotors you should research it. Just FYI this is used by tons of race teams. I used them on my Suburban to decrease rotors temps by over 200 degrees. Tested by Truckin magazine on their 3/4 ton Suburban with the same results.
This is not snake oil, it's a proven process that works.
It's not possible for cryo tempering alone to reduce rotor temperatures by over 200 degrees. Vendors' claims of 200% and even 400% reduction in rotor wear are also completely false. The marketing brochures are full of testimonials from race teams about how wonderful these rotors are - testimonials from teams who get their rotors free and will say anything to keep free stuff coming. What you do not see is a double-blind test supporting any of the marketing claims. Nothing personal, but I doubt "Truckin Magazine" followed the scientific process in their evaluation of cryo tempering, particularly since they were probably given product to evaluate by one of their advertisers.
Let's examine the claim of a 200 degree reduction in rotor temperature. The primary function of the brake system is to convert the energy of motion of the vehicle (kinetic energy) into heat (thermal energy). Next, it must dissipate that heat. Heat is dissipated from brake rotors by radiation, convection, and conduction. The percentage contribution of each form of heat dissipation on an unducted brake system (like on a street car) is approximately 50%, 25%, and 25% respectively.
With that as background, let's look at how rotor temperature is influenced. The kinetic energy of the car is a function of the square of the velocity. It's equal to 1/2 mass times the velocity squared. In a full stop, you are converting all the kinetic energy of the car into thermal energy stored in the rotors. The temperature rise in the rotors is a function of how much mass the rotors contain. The heavier the rotors (greater mass), the lower the temperature at the end of the stop. For a moment, let's ignore cooling. If you put heavier rotors on a car and change nothing else, then the temperature of the brakes at the end of a stop will be lower than it would have been with lighter rotors. But cryo tempering doesn't change the mass of the rotors. So the energy density of the rotors (energy stored per unit of mass) is unchanged by cryo tempering. Thus, the only way cryo tempering could drop rotor temperatures by 200 degrees is to increase the rate of cooling.
So let's move on to the mechanisms by which rotors shed heat:
Radiation is the predominant mechanism for heat loss and is a function of the surface area of the rotors. A characteristic called emissivity influences the efficiency of the radiation process and is changed very slightly by bedding rotors. But any change in emissivity due to cryo tempering is unmeasurable. So if the cryo tempering doesn't change the surface area of the rotors (which it obviously doesn't!) and it doesn't change the emissivity, then it can't increase the rate of cooling by that mechanism.
Moving on to
Convection, we have a mechanism that is a function of airflow around and through the inside (assuming vented) of the rotors. This is influenced by the size of the air gap and the design of the internal cooling fins. Neither of these are affected by cryo tempering, so we're left only with:
Conduction. This is the transfer of heat into your wheel bearings and through the backing plates of your brake pads into the calipers and brake fluid. This is the "bad" kind of heat transfer. If cryo tempering really reduced rotor temperatures by 200 degrees, then this must be where that heat goes. If true, it would mean you would be boiling your brake fluid and cooking the grease in your wheel bearings. Fortunately, it's not true.
I challenge anyone here to have cryo tempered rotors installed on one side of your car and a normal rotors (of otherwise identical construction) installed on the other side, with the stipulation that the installer not tell you which is which. Take your car to the track and do some high speed braking, then use a pyrometer to take rotor temperatures. See if you can find a significant difference in temperature between the two sides, enough to identify which one is the cryo rotor and which one is not. If there really is as big a difference in performance between normal and cryo rotors as claimed by the vendors, then it should be obvious which one is cryo tempered. Next, you can leave the rotors on your car for the next 30,000 miles, then use a micrometer to measure rotor thickness. See if the cryo tempered rotor exhibit less wear. I'll go out on a limb here and predict that you will find no significant difference.
Cryo tempering does not even come close to meeting the claims made by the vendors. Your hard earned money is better spent elsewhere.