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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, newbie here, I have a 2005 300c, all stock, 5.7, and recently I had a CEL pop up, got it read and came back with a 0522 trouble code. I changed out the oil pressure switch with a replacement from autozone and after about 100 miles of driving it didn't go away. I bought another switch from autozone and replaced again thinking I had a bad switch...it happens. so I replaced and still no joy. This morning I replaced the switch for the 3rd time, this time I had bought one from the dealer, who had tried to clear my codes and could not, his reader kept saying "fail" when he tried to delete the trouble code. I figured changing the switch to an oem part might clear the problem. well, on the test drive about 5 miles from the house the car just stalled. I got it to restart but there was no response from the throttle, it was idling in park at about 1500rpms, running rough and I had the cel, oil light, esp/bas light and a (im assuming) light from the throttle? kinda looks like a lightning bolt between 2 reversed parenthesis? come on. I also did a key dance and got these codes - 522, 355, 642. Im leaning towards the ECM crapping out on me but im hoping im wrong. Anyone have an opinion?
 

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The code numbers you posted are partial codes. Normally, they start with a U or a P, such as P0522, U0355, etc...

Try reading them again and post up what you find. I think we can research this a bit more and provide some focused diagnosis on the issues.
 

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I did some digging and found:

P0522:
- Low oil level or motor mechanical fault
- Faulty Oil Pressure sensor
- Oil Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Oil Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Since you replaced the switch, it may be the harness has a bad spot.

P0355:

- Faulty Ignition Coil 5
- Ignition Coil 5 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 5 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Coil harness, coil pack, bad plug. Hopefully it's not the ECM.

P0642:

Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
- ECM harness is open or shorted
- ECM circuit poor electrical connection
- Shorted sensor on 5 volt circuit

Second ECM reference. It could be the ECM but I'd look at the ECM/PCM main harness connection to make sure it's tight, clean and there are no bent pins.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry MADDOG, the complete codes read P0522, P0355, P0642 and I just did a key dance after letting the car cool down for about 6 hours and I now have code P2122 showing up. That one pertains to a low throttle pedal sensor voltage if I am correct. More and more im thinking ecm, too many things happened at once and the fact that the dealer couldn't reset the codes makes me feel like that may just be it. Guess im going to start researching ecm prices, would this be something a backyard joe could do? I'm pretty familiar with auto repair but I'm far from an expert.
 

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I agree. That many disparate codes tells me that you should focus on the ECM harness and main PCM harness connector.

Also, and this may sound funny, test your battery, check the connections at the battery and the auxiliary power center under the hood. Sometimes the weirdest stuff happens due to low voltages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree about the voltage, ive seen some weird stuff too. Thanks for the help, ill post what i found here and maybe that will help someone else down the line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
just an update....got home a little while ago and decided to check voltage at the battery posts and the main power at the box under the hood. With the car off I am reading 12.6 volts in both locations. I started the car, still have the same lights and the same running condition, and checked voltage at the box and the battery, and I read 14.2 volts at idle. I didn't have time to take the battery for a load test but the starter seems to have plenty of power when it cranks over. It was too dark to check for loose connections, that will have to wait until my day off on Thursday. I will update again when I have something new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
update--- I checked the connections to the ecm and pcm, had the battery load tested and everything is good. So, I called the local chrysler deaer to get the cost of the ecm. the service dept advised to bring the car in for diagnostics at a cost of $120. the service advisor says he wants to check something called a "tipem"(?) module? ever heard of that? I'm not sure of the spelling but I was wondering if this is a legit part? I'll spend the $120 if needed but I'd rather take the wife to eat on the $120 if the guy is just trying to get the car in the shop.
 

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TIPM module is what he's referring to and that is the "Totally Integrated Power Module".

It is responsible for a lot of the power switching/modulation/distribution, and communications with other modules in CanBus systems.The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) is a combination unit that performs the functions of the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and the Front Control Module. The TIPM is a printed based module that contains fuses, internal relays and a microprocessor that performs the functions previously executed by the FCM. The TIPM is located in the engine compartment, and connects directly to the B+ cable via a stud located on top of the unit. The ground connection is via electrical connectors.

Picture Time:



New TIPMs go for around $900 including about $300 in labor to install and reprogram the vehicle. After replacing the TIPM, they need to be programmed to the vehicle. As far as I know, only the dealer can do the programming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
wow....and i was afraid of BAD news lol. alright....guess ill send the car to the dealer monday. thank you MADDOG!
 

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I can't say the dealer is right but if they tested and diagnosed, then said TIPM I'd feel a bit better about the news as they should have pinpointed the problem after the testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
update #3....so the car got to the dealer Monday, got a call today and they found a bunch of wires melted together behind the alternator that he says all relate to the dtc's I've been getting as well as a few new codes they pulled. the dealer also said the ecm and tipm seem to be ok but of course the harness needs to be repaired before they can completely diagnose the car. I've authorized the repairs but its gonna set me back $815 plus the $120 for the diagnostic. Ouch!
 
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