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Discussion Starter #1
Well, its plumbed in and programmed, the evic comes alive in 5 second after pressing 3X close button on the fob as it attempts to start, so something is happening....however

.....the starter will not turning, either because of the immobiliser or the ignition (+) output not connected.

I have a pink wire from the loom within the bundle, however its suppose to join to the ignition (+) output and I assume this was albeit connected up within T connector plug & play outfit.

Its not as straight forward as made out or claimed by a few and I will confirm this as soon as I find out, so those who would like one, PLEASE hold off for now and save your expense.

In the meantime could some kind soul confirm or check for me from the Chrysler schematics and if you could indicate which is the ignition (+) output and also post the SKEEM connectors output.

(ps yellow/black is successfully connected to the purple, which is the door pin)
 

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The SKREEM output is Can-Bus I think.
Dont think there is a switched 12V (or other analogue) signal.

If you just want a temporary Ignition signal to prove it all works, you could pick a tempoarary 12V from the cigar lighter socket if you set the fuse in the boot to the correct position. May be better than messing about with more important wiring for now ?

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK folks, some update.

At the ignition, for my particular vehicle its type 4 and the start wire is at pin 4.

After pressing 3X on the keyfob, the car now starts & runs but it stays running for about 5-6 seconds and then engine cuts out.

It then repeats the process for a further 2 times, altogether 3 attempts and at every attempt the engine would start and run normally but it then cuts out within 5-6 seconds??

The only other wire which is unconnected is the (AC) Tach output. Does anyone know where this connects to and what it does?

Does this wire need connecting as the instruction say 'Tach wire is an optional connection required on some remote starters, which do not support a tach signal in D2D'

Also the led indicator flashes green during this process?
 

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Over my head I'm afraid.

Unless it means the crank sensor. Alternatively, Alternator output.

Sounds as though it needs to detect that the engine is running.


EDIT:
Thinking about it, will prob be a rev counter input required but thought that would be picked up from harness.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Over my head I'm afraid.

Unless it means the crank sensor. Alternatively, Alternator output.

Sounds as though it needs to detect that the engine is running.


EDIT:
Thinking about it, will prob be a rev counter input required but thought that would be picked up from harness.

Jack
That is what I was thinking too.

I noticed the rev counter during remote start process was dead, so I'm now thinking the same.

Need to figure out where I could pick up signal. Can't use that crack sensor, will come up like 10'000 revs/sec (Bugatti Veyron territory). I can only think of is the low signal from one of the coil packs, unless there is some other point.

I'll give it another go tomorrow but I also need to trickle charge the car batteries, its now reading like 11.9 volts after those cranks.

Here some photos of the day to share, will solder them joints & fabric tape if it works out.

Thanks Jack for your input & support, much appreciated :fing02:



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just an update, I tapped the purple/white wire to the coil pack, regrettably no difference. The engine cuts out after 5-6 seconds.

I got a response from the seller on ebay who advised they flashed it as 2006 Chrysler 300c but it appear would appear from the chart there is actually 2 for my particular car.

DB-ALL - 401.CHRYSLER 5.01

DB-ALL - 401.CHRYSLER 5.06.01

I placed an order for the xkloader2, I'll now have to wait for it to arrive in hopes that I can get it up and running.

Dang, thats another 2 weeks wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have DBALL2,

When all plugged in, the DBALL2 originally flashing orange. I then put in key to position ON, then flashing green. I remove key then press door open on key fob. Then solid green.

I then press 3X close door, then EVIC come on but NO starting.

I then decide to connect pink wire to IGNITION SWITCH pin 4 (starter).

Then 3X close door, car starts running OK then after 5 second engine switch OFF. Automatic repeat 2 more times. Engine always switch OFF after 5-6 seconds???

Also I check & try connect a/c tach to see if it fix but no good.

Is this not how to program? I follow instruction
 

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Need to figure out where I could pick up signal. Can't use that crack sensor, will come up like 10'000 revs/sec (Bugatti Veyron territory).
There's still a good chance it hasnt detected the engine is running so it shuts everything down.

Picking a signal up from the Crank or Cam sensor is still a possibility. Your 10,000 revs comment is not relevant. There is no way the system will measure the frequency, it will just measure the amplitude.
From the Cam or Crank sensor you will get about 5V amplitude and the frequency is likely to be irrelevant.
Assuming it did work from either of these I would still be wary about leaving it connected to either of these sensors really. Its just another item that cause a non starting issue if the Dball develops a fault.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There's still a good chance it hasnt detected the engine is running so it shuts everything down.

Picking a signal up from the Crank or Cam sensor is still a possibility. Your 10,000 revs comment is not relevant. There is no way the system will measure the frequency, it will just measure the amplitude.
From the Cam or Crank sensor you will get about 5V amplitude and the frequency is likely to be irrelevant.
Assuming it did work from either of these I would still be wary about leaving it connected to either of these sensors really. Its just another item that cause a non starting issue if the Dball develops a fault.

Jack
That's a good point, could try from the cam sensor to see if it made a difference. I'll report back later this evening.
 
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Send my with pm your phonenumber talk are more easy as write.

First , connect all cable from my manual and you must reset the dball this are importand, after reset remove the dball from the wiring
 

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it may be down to a setting on the xkloader screen....see "smart oem alarm control" - the imobiliser may be firing-up without this being enabled (apologies to SOX for pinching his photo)



I can report that the remote start works fine on the U.K edition cars.

I had an auto electrician install the unit, not that it was difficult, but I just don't seem to have the time.

I also had fitted a reverse cam, freeview box and a front crash cam that all integrates and are controlled by the head unit.

From start to finish took 4 hours.

perhaps TFUK might be able to photograph the extra connections made by his electrician into the loom, (i.e additional to those provided dball harness)??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A live update,

I connected up the AC Tach wire to the coil pack & also tried it to the camshaft sensor, both no joy & for safety I've disconnected it for now as I'm calling it a day & need the car running to get to work.

My main focus is now with the firmware & settings. My only problem, I'm waiting for the XKLOADER2 to arrive, which was not ordered at the time as the seller offered to flash it. I reckon should get that towards the back end of next week, till then it seems this project is suspended, unless SOX, I pm'd you my no. if you think whether it might be worth waiting for the XKloader2 to arrive as I'm not able to re-flash & check for settings like 'smart oem alarm control' pointed out by KB.

Thanks all for input.
 

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I'm not at all sure about all those extra wires youre trying....I asked the manufacturer '& they replied -

Hi,

All you need is a DBALL2 with CHTHD1 to be able to perform 3xLock start.

Regards,

jean belanger | Canadian Technical support coordinator

2750 alphonse gariepy, lachine, qc H8T 3M2

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DBALL2 & CHTHD2 (R9-R10) harness, R9-R10 harness marked also for DBALL1. There are 2 types of CHTHD2 harness for the prefacelift, R1-R6 listed for DBALL1 only.

Focus has turned to firmware & settings.

GMT +0
 

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Just try strapping your spare key to the sentinal and see if it stays running,if it does then it's the immobiliser cutting in (obviously.....lol).....I did say I didn't think it would work straight out of the box due to the yanks not having our immobiliser set up but keep it up and see if you crack it
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Just try strapping your spare key to the sentinal and see if it stays running,if it does then it's the immobiliser cutting in (obviously.....lol).....I did say I didn't think it would work straight out of the box due to the yanks not having our immobiliser set up but keep it up and see if you crack it
That was one of the things I tried yesterday bud, left the spare key in the ignition and tried it but no joy.

Spent another few hours, this time using another wiring diagram from the seller, plumbed in 2 other wires to the OBD2 port at pin 6 & pin 14 & performed system reset & sequenced the key but made no difference.

Focus has turned to firmware & settings, will know after this but until then I strongly advise anyone to hold off purchase to avoid disappointment.
 

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tcfuk got his CRD to work - that has the same Thatcham device as all the other UK cars, so I would suggest its not down to the car's design
 
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