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Last night, after again wondering why that 10" sub sounded so weak, I decided to do some testing. I first listened to a song with some low bass for reference. I then disconnected the sub in the trunk, to see get an idea of how much bass the sub actually contributed. (I owned a 300C previous to this, and the Boston system WITHOUT the sub actually sounded better IMO.) Not to my surprise, the Kicker system produced MORE low end response through the 6x9's in the door than with the sub playing.

Having a background in mobile electronics, I knew that this was due to something very simple...sound cancellation. The subwoofer was playing 180 degrees out of phase with the 6x9's in the door, so they were actually working AGAINST each other, and effectively cancelling out the low end frequencies.

To remedy this, I simply removed the sub from the enclosure and swapped the positive and negative connections at the sub. Luckily, on this sub, the two terminals are the same size. This made a HUGE difference. I can now hear and feel the bass, without opening up the back seats.

The question is, was this sub simply hooked up wrong from the factory on my car, or are the kicker systems designed in such a way that the sub, due to its location, operate out of phase with the rest of the system. You other guys with car audio background know that some aftermarket sub amps actually have a switch to change the phase from 0 to 180 degrees for this exact reason.

Anyway, the point is my sub sounds WAY better, and I can now say that I am happy with the Kicker system. Bye the way, I also removed the center channel to correct the front stage/imaging problem.
 

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XCITsNU said:
Very interesting! Is there any difference between the two connectors to tell which one is the correct configuration? I.e., difference in colors of the wires, etc.?

Yes, they are both black, but one wire has a red tag on it, and this was attached to the positive terminal.
 

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bgreen4 said:
Yes, they are both black, but one wire has a red tag on it, and this was attached to the positive terminal.
The red attached to teh Positive terminal was the wrong configuration or the post fix configuration? Thanks in advance.
 

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bgreen4 said:
Last night, after again wondering why that 10" sub sounded so weak, I decided to do some testing. I first listened to a song with some low bass for reference. I then disconnected the sub in the trunk, to see get an idea of how much bass the sub actually contributed. (I owned a 300C previous to this, and the Boston system WITHOUT the sub actually sounded better IMO.) Not to my surprise, the Kicker system produced MORE low end response through the 6x9's in the door than with the sub playing.

Having a background in mobile electronics, I knew that this was due to something very simple...sound cancellation. The subwoofer was playing 180 degrees out of phase with the 6x9's in the door, so they were actually working AGAINST each other, and effectively cancelling out the low end frequencies.

To remedy this, I simply removed the sub from the enclosure and swapped the positive and negative connections at the sub. Luckily, on this sub, the two terminals are the same size. This made a HUGE difference. I can now hear and feel the bass, without opening up the back seats.

The question is, was this sub simply hooked up wrong from the factory on my car, or are the kicker systems designed in such a way that the sub, due to its location, operate out of phase with the rest of the system. You other guys with car audio background know that some aftermarket sub amps actually have a switch to change the phase from 0 to 180 degrees for this exact reason.

Anyway, the point is my sub sounds WAY better, and I can now say that I am happy with the Kicker system. Bye the way, I also removed the center channel to correct the front stage/imaging problem.
Interesting find. What did your bass sound like before you switched the wires? Did it sound non-existent at really low bass frequencies?

I too disconnected my center dash speaker a long time ago. It sounds a lot better with it not connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
XCITsNU said:
The red attached to teh Positive terminal was the wrong configuration or the post fix configuration? Thanks in advance.
Normally red is associated with the positive terminal, which is the way my sub was hooked up, so it appears that from a wiring standpoint is was installed properly. It is possible that the amp is wired out of phase, I am not sure. All I can say for sure, is that by making this change and running the sub the opposite way it came to me made a huge improvement.
 

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Johnny Vig said:
Interesting find. What did your bass sound like before you switched the wires? Did it sound non-existent at really low bass frequencies?

I too disconnected my center dash speaker a long time ago. It sounds a lot better with it not connected.

Yes, the base was pretty much non-existant, especially at the higher volumes. I have only had the car three weeks, and it took some time to start really bothering me. Now I can feel and hear the sub. I may have just gotten a reversed wire somewhere in the system, but on reading many of the posts here, it seams that other were unhappy with the kicker sub, so I thought I would share..have you been happy with yours?
 

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no problems here

our Kicker set up has impressed many since purchase. Great imaging and sound from front seats only. Sub has deep response (I'm not into it) that my wife says is great on her music.

One of the better sounding factory setups I've heard.
 

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Johnny Vig said:
I too disconnected my center dash speaker a long time ago. It sounds a lot better with it not connected.
How and where did you disconnect the center dash speaker? Was it easy?

I get what I consider to be poor imaging with the system if I sit in the driver's or passenger's seat. Much better if I lean over into the middle over the center console. Perhaps the center dash speaker is the problem.
 

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I wonder if anyone has taken a sound meter and measured the full range of frequencies from the driver's seat. It would be interesting to get a graph of the sound coming from the system. Perhaps this may allow us to "tweak & tune" it for a more pleasing sound. (of course, a pleasing sound is subjective)
 

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Wonder if this would work on the SGII as well? My sub is virtually non existant in that setup. (Although I know it's not nearly as good of a sub as in the kicker, but still can't hurt... I think)
 

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I just took it apart and when I went to pull the speaker wires off the terminals they looked like they're spot soldered on. I didn't want to break anything so I put it back together.

Then I tried listening with the seat-back down and it does make a difference but still not 'in your face'. This system doesn't hit you in seat as much as the Stealbox in my truck. Not even sure if there's any comparison though.

I also listened to the sub from outside the open trunk at a pretty high volume and it really doesn't make that much sound.

So, I'd still like to try the reversal. Did you have to use a little force when you pulled the wires?

Thanks..

Dan
 

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I reversed the wires and it made a BIG difference.

The sub now sounds like it did with the seats down, while I have the seats up!

perfect fix:fing02:
 

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Can you install a sub in the same factory location.. I have an 05 with the Boston system and would really like the factory look.. Are there any aftermarket kits?
 

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Mopar Performance....now sells an upgrade kit...
 

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Driven2WIN said:
How and where did you disconnect the center dash speaker? Was it easy?

I get what I consider to be poor imaging with the system if I sit in the driver's or passenger's seat. Much better if I lean over into the middle over the center console. Perhaps the center dash speaker is the problem.
Here is what you need to do.

Tools & Materials required:

Credit Card for prying up the speaker grill.
A small socket wrench or a stubby phillips head screwdriver (the speakers are so close to the windshield and it will be hard to fit a screwdriver in there, but a stubby will work-the screws are not tight and are easy to remove)

1. Slide your credit card in between the speaker grill and the dash and gently pry up evenly on the grill. The grill will pop right up once you get 2 of the tabs unseated from the dash. You will be able to feel for the tabs while you are sliding the credit card around where the grill cover seats inside the dash.

2. You will see the stock speaker with the 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws using your socket or stubby phillips head and pull out the speaker.

3. Push the little white plastic tab in on the connector and remove the connector from the speaker.

Quick Summary- To remove the speaker grill, take a credit card and wedge it down between the speaker grill and the dash surround at the 6-8 o'clock position. Work the credit card clockwise from there and you will then depress two of the clips that hold the speaker in. Once those 2 clips are up, you should be able to pry up the speaker grill by hand

Overall this is not a difficult mod, it just takes a little patience when using the credit card to find the grill tabs. Once the tabs start to come up you can grab the grill and pull it out. The results are worth it!
 

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Kicker Sub and Speakers

Just a note for those of you that don't have the Kicker Sub or Speakers. Chrysler has released the Sub and Speakers as an Accessory. Sub and Speakers are sold seperatly. The Kits are available for 300s, Magnums, Neons, Chargers, LX Models and Ram Trucks (TBA).
 

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dodgeboy16 said:
Just a note for those of you that don't have the Kicker Sub or Speakers. Chrysler has released the Sub and Speakers as an Accessory. Sub and Speakers are sold seperatly. The Kits are available for 300s, Magnums, Neons, Chargers, LX Models and Ram Trucks (TBA).
Did you happen to get prices etc? Or a link?
Thanx,
Gary
 

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CRUZR said:
Did you happen to get prices etc? Or a link?
Thanx,
Gary
Prices and info will be out soon. There should be two kits. One with the upgraded dash, door, and rear speakers and one with the 10" sub enclosure and the 100 watt amp. Plug and play harness will be provided along with detailed instructions.
 

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Does anyone with the SGII actually think the included sub is worth anything? Mine rarely fires (LOW frequency only), and when it does, it's soooooo weak, even in the trunk. Just wondering if it's normal or if mine might have a problem.
 
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