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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally getting round to posting this up, In this post, I will be showing some of the vague pointers on how to attack and replace a turbocharger on your 1st gen 300c CRD.

Mine had a strange fault and was also of the age where it could go south, it had play in the shaft and at around about 110,000 miles it was time to address the issue. I had exhaust fume coming into the cab, from the base of the turbo.

  • 3/8 drive socket set
  • a GOOD set of 'E sockets'
  • a GOOD set of torx bits (I used draper 1/2" bits)
  • Oil filter replacement tools
  • Rags
  • Screwdrivers/7mm socket

  • Replacement turbo (Duh)
  • New gaskets
  • New O ring seals for charged air pipework
  • New turbo nuts and studs (recommended but not required)
  • Oil and oil filter

Time duration, About 2 hours to remove the turbo and associated gubbins,
About 3-4 hours to replace. (I am an amateur at this to an extent)

Difficulty? Not that bad, I am tall, Persons of reduced stature might have issues reaching the turbo as its at the back along with the fasteners, A lot was pretty awkward because of the exhaust fasteners were underneath the turbo.

So here is the engine, Ensure it is COLD, Remove the cover... You are greeted with this.

Remove Temp sensor plug, and begin removing the cold air intake.

Leaving you with this:

Begin removal of charged air pipework, Torx bit XXX Remove clip by pulling toward you:

Using E Socket XXX Remove bolt on top of engine releasing charged air pipework:

Pull Charged air pipe toward you and lift up, Recover both O ring seals from Intake to Intercooler and outlet from turbo:

Still using E socket XXX Remove heat shield from turbo (3 bolts)
Swing transmission fluid dipper out of the way gently.

Wangle the heatshield out the way, and remove it.
Remove the exhaust clamp to pre-cat using E socket XXX. Its difficult to get at So this will take a while to get at.

Slide the clamp down and out of the way.
Remove 3X nuts from back of turbo- 2 on top left and right, One underneath. 13mm A ring ratchet spanner with a flexible head is a godsend here...

Time to play tetris and try to remove the right angle pipe from the engine bay. No easy way, Drop the outlet down toward the transmission and wangle it out of the way...

A bit more visibility has been attained, So you can remove the EGR flexi, But first, Save cutting your hands to shreds, Remove this bracket first on the left, I did this later on after swearing at it countless times...

EGR Flexi removal, 4 Bolts, E type socket XXX, U Joint is a good idea with extension bits to get at others, The Flexi has 2 x metal gaskets that can be reused if not mashed.

Exhaust pipework: Begin soaking the bolts with a penetrant of your choice. Youll need it...

Begin releasing the bolts, E Type socket XXX, With help of U joint and extension bars. They can be stubborn... 3x for both left and right, Recover metal gaskets.

Remove pedestal bolts, 2 x Using E socket XXX. Left one is easy, Right one is a bit of a swine to remove and get at.

At this point, I ran into issues, One bolt on the nearside exhaust manifolt fought and fought... It was feeling like it was going to shear. But with a sh*tload of penetrant, It eased out. I was greeted with this...

At this point I figured, that this may have been the cars second turbo.
Not good...

But onwards and upwards.

Unplug the electrical connector for the VVT actuator, be careful not to damage the casing.

Facing the turbo inlet, bottom left, there are 3 bolts, securing the turbo to nearside engine head assembly. E socket XXX

Nearing our prize, Removal of the pedestal bolts, T XXX.
You need a GOOD torx bit, and extension, One either side of the core of the turbo, They are tight so be careful, and DO NOT skip or round these off.

Breathe a sigh of relief, Remove the turbo...

Wheres it gone?

Before taking that picture, I spotted a pedestal gasket, from the previous turbo, In good condition.

Evidence of leak from my turbo, Remove gasket that may be attached to this side:

Remove the Y piece from the old turbo, Attach to new:

At this point I lost light, and patience, The turbo came into work to have the studs removed, They were on there, I had to heat the body of the turbo up to remove them. Using the 2 nut method... Google it and that will give you many ways on removing studs.

Refit the turbo using new gaskets and O rings on the charged air lines, I had to reuse the old ones, they were in good condition as my new gaskets were incorrect.

A Bit of information regarding the downpipe to cat clamp, I struggled to reattach it...

I didnt realise that there is a locating lug on the cat, Feel around the back of it, I felt supid in doing so because that took a good hour fitting ht clamp back on.

Turbo priming and startup-
Drop the oil from the sump, Yes Its needed.
For those who believe in replacing the copper washer on the sump plug, heres a bit of moneysaving for you.
Take the washer and hook it on your gas hob like this:

Get it red hot and using a pair of pliers, Throw it in cold water... Watch the gunk fall off it:

I have never needed to replace copper washers after doing this...

Replace your oil filter, and oil.
Remove the 18mm bolt on top of turbo, Be careful as the copper washers may make a break for freedom under the engine.

Using a 15ml syringe, Inject 60ml of engine oil into the turbo.

Priming the turbo is a must. Its empty, to an extent and you need to have positive oil pressure or the shaft will tear sh*t out of the bearings.

Open your fusebox, If its this type, then remove this relay:

If its this one, Remove the noted relay and bridge the connections marked in red:

Make a little cable bridge like so, Bridge these connections. The engine will turn over but not start. Aim for 5 seconds of cranking, 3 times.

Replace the relay. Start the engine...
Hot smells will be normal as its burning the paint off the nice new turbo.
Shut down and check your oil level, grab a beer and enjoy it.

7 Posts
Old post but....could somebody tell me the size of the 6 bolts behind the turbo in the manifolds there are 3 in each side im building up the parts list for the oil cooler seal leak.cheers guys
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