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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2015 chrysler 300 AWD and the center bearing - hanger bearing - drive shaft bearing... what ever you want to call it... well it's bust. Dealer is saying the whole drive shaft needs to be replaced because they can't order just the bearing.
I see up to 2014 you can order the bearing. But not finding anything for the 2015.

Anyone got info on this?

Thanks,

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i'm at 160,000 KM so all warranties are expired. I have no updates for this yet, but will at some point go up on the ramps and check to see if there is a product number on the bearing it's self. Wondering if the bearing from previous years will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wanted to give an update on this. I ended up buying a used Driveshaft off ebay for $300 instead of $1600 from the dealer. Just finished replacing it. You do not need to drop the exhaust, or touch the exhaust at all.

1) Place Car on Jack Stands
174585


2) I didn't pay attention if these needed to be removed - but I removed both support members - 13mm nuts, 4 on each one.

3) Remove the 8 T-50 Bolts on the back of the driveshaft. You will need to place the car in Neutral to turn the drive shaft for easy access to the bolts.

4) Put car in Neutral to complete previous step. You will need to remove the black plaster cell phone holder to access the bypass.
174586


Just grab the cord and pull up. There is a shiny piece of metal mid-way that will hook, you pull it and the metal will bend pass the lever. It then locks by the back with a black tab, to release you need to push the black tab back a bit, my finger was able to fit but you could use a screw driver if you have fat fingers. When you push the lever down it again will hook on the shiny metal and seem like it doesn't want to go any further, push it down and again it will bend the metal and go back into it's spot. I don't know if this is the correct way to use this by-pass, but it worked for me.

5) remove the center support bearing bolts - 13mm
6) remove the 8-T50 bolts from the front of the driveshaft. You can do this using a U-joint and extensions on your ratchet.
7) You may need to gently tap the driveshaft to loosen it from the differential and transfer case.
8) Once you have it loose, drop the back end of the driveshaft so it will pass below the differential and pull it out from the back.

Installation is the reverse of these steps.

The drive shaft is not 2 piece like previous models, the bearing can not be replaced.
174587


174588


174589


Whats inside the dust shield.
Auto part Tool accessory Hardware accessory
 

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For sure thank you. I'm going through this rn with a 2016 300S AWD. Luckily my warranty will cover it but they're sending an "adjuster" to the dealership just to confirm that you can't just buy the bearing.
I also have a 2016 300S AWD and it’s making some funny noises Did your car make any noises before knowing the carrier bearing was bad?
 

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You're welcome. I'm an ME and it's just a poor design from an engineering standpoint. Built to fail. Oh well
Wanted to give an update on this. I ended up buying a used Driveshaft off ebay for $300 instead of $1600 from the dealer. Just finished replacing it. You do not need to drop the exhaust, or touch the exhaust at all.

1) Place Car on Jack Stands View attachment 174585

2) I didn't pay attention if these needed to be removed - but I removed both support members - 13mm nuts, 4 on each one.

3) Remove the 8 T-50 Bolts on the back of the driveshaft. You will need to place the car in Neutral to turn the drive shaft for easy access to the bolts.

4) Put car in Neutral to complete previous step. You will need to remove the black plaster cell phone holder to access the bypass. View attachment 174586

Just grab the cord and pull up. There is a shiny piece of metal mid-way that will hook, you pull it and the metal will bend pass the lever. It then locks by the back with a black tab, to release you need to push the black tab back a bit, my finger was able to fit but you could use a screw driver if you have fat fingers. When you push the lever down it again will hook on the shiny metal and seem like it doesn't want to go any further, push it down and again it will bend the metal and go back into it's spot. I don't know if this is the correct way to use this by-pass, but it worked for me.

5) remove the center support bearing bolts - 13mm
6) remove the 8-T50 bolts from the front of the driveshaft. You can do this using a U-joint and extensions on your ratchet.
7) You may need to gently tap the driveshaft to loosen it from the differential and transfer case.
8) Once you have it loose, drop the back end of the driveshaft so it will pass below the differential and pull it out from the back.

Installation is the reverse of these steps.

The drive shaft is not 2 piece like previous models, the bearing can not be replaced.
View attachment 174587

View attachment 174588

View attachment 174589

Whats inside the dust shield. View attachment 174590
Is it a front shaft with the bearing or a rear shaft with the bearing or is it all one piece...
 

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Wanted to give an update on this. I ended up buying a used Driveshaft off ebay for $300 instead of $1600 from the dealer. Just finished replacing it. You do not need to drop the exhaust, or touch the exhaust at all.

1) Place Car on Jack Stands View attachment 174585

2) I didn't pay attention if these needed to be removed - but I removed both support members - 13mm nuts, 4 on each one.

3) Remove the 8 T-50 Bolts on the back of the driveshaft. You will need to place the car in Neutral to turn the drive shaft for easy access to the bolts.

4) Put car in Neutral to complete previous step. You will need to remove the black plaster cell phone holder to access the bypass. View attachment 174586

Just grab the cord and pull up. There is a shiny piece of metal mid-way that will hook, you pull it and the metal will bend pass the lever. It then locks by the back with a black tab, to release you need to push the black tab back a bit, my finger was able to fit but you could use a screw driver if you have fat fingers. When you push the lever down it again will hook on the shiny metal and seem like it doesn't want to go any further, push it down and again it will bend the metal and go back into it's spot. I don't know if this is the correct way to use this by-pass, but it worked for me.

5) remove the center support bearing bolts - 13mm
6) remove the 8-T50 bolts from the front of the driveshaft. You can do this using a U-joint and extensions on your ratchet.
7) You may need to gently tap the driveshaft to loosen it from the differential and transfer case.
8) Once you have it loose, drop the back end of the driveshaft so it will pass below the differential and pull it out from the back.

Installation is the reverse of these steps.

The drive shaft is not 2 piece like previous models, the bearing can not be replaced.
View attachment 174587

View attachment 174588

View attachment 174589

Whats inside the dust shield. View attachment 174590
Thanks for this
Much appreciated
 

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Hello everyone, new on the forum and let me tell you all.. there is a way of removing the Driveshaft Center Support Bearing but it was a bit complicated since there was no info on forums or youtube to do this. I pesonally fixed my 2015 Chrysler 300S reardrive "not the AWD" so i will not be giving details on how to remove the driveshaft but rather how I Managed to remove the bearing. firts of all i had to damage open the Metal cover where the 2 piece shaft joins together, and then in the inside there is a lock near the edge. with two picks remove it then pull on both ends apart to get the metal balls and position ring out. once removed cut the pressure clamps to remove the rubber boot. push back on the boot or attach bungee cords to retract the boot. on the end there is a star looking piece which is attached with an inner lock- it cannot be seen so when i removed it i broke it using a Posi Lock gear and bearing puller MODEL 104 and an impact hammer. not sure it pushing it In can give you access to that ring lock wire. after that pull the boot off and get yourself a long bearing puller I myself made one from two. The Center support Bearing was from a 2014 300S just made sure it had the same inner dimension. For me it was all a puzzle which i didnt know where or how to start but once you get everything apart youll know how to reassemble. Hope it serves at least as a guide.
 

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Hello everyone, new on the forum and let me tell you all.. there is a way of removing the Driveshaft Center Support Bearing but it was a bit complicated since there was no info on forums or youtube to do this. I pesonally fixed my 2015 Chrysler 300S reardrive "not the AWD" so i will not be giving details on how to remove the driveshaft but rather how I Managed to remove the bearing. firts of all i had to damage open the Metal cover where the 2 piece shaft joins together, and then in the inside there is a lock near the edge. with two picks remove it then pull on both ends apart to get the metal balls and position ring out. once removed cut the pressure clamps to remove the rubber boot. push back on the boot or attach bungee cords to retract the boot. on the end there is a star looking piece which is attached with an inner lock- it cannot be seen so when i removed it i broke it using a Posi Lock gear and bearing puller MODEL 104 and an impact hammer. not sure it pushing it In can give you access to that ring lock wire. after that pull the boot off and get yourself a long bearing puller I myself made one from two. The Center support Bearing was from a 2014 300S just made sure it had the same inner dimension. For me it was all a puzzle which i didnt know where or how to start but once you get everything apart youll know how to reassemble. Hope it serves at least as a guide.
Hey so we did this and were wondering how you replaced the inner lock ring on the star piece. We’ve gotten that far but can’t find that piece anywhere. Any help you could offer?
 
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