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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking into the supercharger thing for our hemi's and came across this "electric supercharger". I thought if they could generate enough CFM, it might work. It would be a lot cheaper, is available now, but wouldn't deliver the HP that a belt driven one would. I decided to e-mail them to see what they had to say. Here is their response, for what it is worth.

Hello,

Thank you for your interest in the e-RAM Electric Supercharger.

Short answer:
Due to your engine's larger displacement (over 5.0L), you will need two
e-RAM's mounted in parallel (one on each side of a "Y" intake tube), then
entering the single tube which then enters the throttle-body.

Now for the long answer:
The e-RAM normally provides roughly 5% HP boost for any engine up to 5.0L or
engines with a baseline hp of 300hp or less. Due to your engine
displacement, as your rpms reach closer to 5000 rpm, the HP gain realized by
the e-RAM will diminish (this is due to the lessening differential between
your engine's CFM requirement and the e-RAM's CFM flow). Also, there will be
slightly less HP generated by the e-RAM at lower RPMs as well (1000-2000
rpm). As the engine rpms increase, the engine develops a greater demand for
air (pressure differential between inside the engine cylinders and the
outside atmospheric pressure), then the resulting vacuum in the intake
system increases. Some of the gains from the e-RAM come from offsetting
this vacuum, which will be lower at low rpms on a bigger engine.

So if you were to use a single e-RAM unit, most of your engine's hp gains
will be between 2000 rpm and 4000 rpm. With the single e-RAM setup, we
would anticipate a gradual reduction in boost from 4000 rpm upward to
red-line. Your engine will have a max CFM requirement of around 550 cfm
at 6000 rpm, and the latest generation e-RAM can flow close to 1000 cfm, so
although hp gains will decrease as rpms go higher, there will be no hp loss
through the highest-end of your rpms. Long story short.... with the single
e-RAM, you may end up with 4% gains, mostly at the mid-range (2K to 4K) of
your RPM's from the e-RAM (instead of 5% gains through the entire RPM range
like on smaller engines).

This is what we saw during tests on our Porsche 928 S4 race car with the
5.4L engine pushing 400 flywheel hp (now configured with two e-RAMs mounted
in parallel feeding single intake).

SUMMARY:
The only way to get the full 5-6% HP gain from the e-RAM through the entire
RPM range on your size engine, will be to mount two e-RAM's in parallel (two
separate intake tubes with an e-RAM attached, then merged as a single intake
to the throttle-body), as that will double the potential flow rate to 2000
cfm, and assure the 1 psi delivery to your intake (we did this for the Dodge
Viper 8L V10, and got 25hp gain on the 450hp base with two parallel mounted
e-RAMs..one on each 5 cylinder, 4L side of the engine). We don't yet have
dyno results for your specific engine.

We know of one customer with a 5.7L Hemi that mounted two e-RAMs in parallel
to pressurize his stock air-box (made a custom mounting configuration), and
he
seemed to think that it was worth it. But again, we do not have any dyno
results.

Hope this helps -



Regards,

Mike Kibort
e-Racing Motorsports, LLC.
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/
 

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Before you install that make sure to change your blinker fluid to synthetic and up grade your muffler bearing while your at it... :rolleyes: ;) :cool:
Joey Molnar
05 300 C Silver
14.0 @ 99
01 Dak R/T
13.7 @ 98
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Actually, I was thinking of hooking a squirrel cage fan up to a lawn mower engine in the trunk and duct it up to the intake box. Bet I could get almost as much boost, without overtaxing the electrical system on the car. Lawn mower engine has to be at least 3 hp though. What they don't tell us is that you loose more than you might gain driving them, by having to run 3 alternators to keep the battery charged. Note their current draw X2 for the hemi.
 

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BWAAHAAHAAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA


IT - WON'T - WORK

scam. plain and simple.

What he's not telling you is that mere CFM is NOT the whole picture. The CFM requirements are created by your engine, not the supercharger. When you add a supercharger the CFM and fuel demands go up because...

...Here's the kicker...

THE SUPERCHARGER CREATES BOOST, or higher than -14.7 atmospheric pressure in the cylidners. You would have to invest a lot of money in very heavy batteries to create the rpm it would take to speed up and stack the air at +2-4 psi of boost instead of the -14.7 N/A motors see.

There's no shortcut. It takes about 10HP to create 1-2psi. This hair dryer kit won't cut the mustard.

I need to build a "seemingly" better mousetrap and sell it on ebay. There's a lot of money in suckering people.

I love how he said this kit will increase HP by 5% and then they say they made 10HP over the 450HP base......Wow, that's like, 2%....amazing :rolleyes: Anyone can get that gain/loss just by the weather changing.
 

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Telegram Just Recieved

From our emergency backup sucker-defense system, this telegram just in:


AT WOT VEHICLE SLOWER DUE PHYSICAL RESTRICTION MECHANISM STOP

SELLER SUGGESTS 2UNITS COVERUP DEFICIENCY STOP

"BOOST" NOT ABLE FEED TRUE AIRFLOW NEEDS ENGINE STOP

300C OWNER "GETS" PSEUDO PRINCIPLE BLAMES SELF STOP

SELLER SMIRKS ALLWAYTO BANK STOP

BEFORE EVEN CONSIDER THIS STOP

KARMIC FORCES SELLER EATEN BY SHARK IN CARIBBEAN DO NOT STOP

Zilla ;)
 

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My first electric supercharger was made over 20 years ago. I've also made electric rockets, electric hover crafts and hundreds of other weird inventions. I've made forced induction units using axial flow, ducted fan, centrifugal turbines, screw props to name a few. I've driven them using home built motors, brushless motors, neodymium boron iron magnets, Magnequench magnets. I've used spiral wound batteries, aerogel super capacitors, lithium ion, NiMh, even vacuum flywheel energy storage. I've also designed supercooled stored energy intakes using series stacked peltier junctions (Thermoelectric heat pumps) Those work very well for 1/4 mile runs but not climbing hills.

Many of these ideas/inventions actually work to some degree, but I do this mostly as a hobby. E-Racing Electric Superchargers probably work but not near as claimed. With his ducted fan inline motors you can expect "at most" 3-5 hp gain for every 800 watts of electric drive. His ducted fan is running under <70% efficiency plus the electric motor is running at 60-80% efficiency. This is adding inline heat. 50% of the energy "in" is heating up the intake air. If he moves the electric motor out of the air flow then his motor will overheat. When his electric supercharger is on then the alternator is also adding additional parasitic drag. You really can't say it doesn't work. More like it works to some degree but not as claimed. I would also be concerned about sucking in a motor brush or fan blade. Also the unit is going restrict the engine slightly when off if he has no bypass valve.
 

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I'm ready...I'm hooking up a 12v converter and my leaf blower to the new CAI hose on the Volant kit...it will fit perfectly, and the box on the leaf blower up to 160mph, so it has to work.

(you know I'm kidding....I hope....if not, then see my sig)
 
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