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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question regarding the eibach pro kit spring installation. A buddy and I installed a pro kit on my 300C this weekend and while the front turned out fine, the rear didn't drop but about a half-inch. Eibach suggests cutting 25mm off the rear bump stops which we didn't do (which leads me to believe that's where we went wrong) as I'm not sure where they are. Are they at the top of spring or inside rear damper?
To anyone who has installed a set, could you please advise as to what you cut, and how you cut. I'm not sure if that is the reason it didn't drop as it does not seem to be sitting on the bump stops now. Any ideas would be appreciated.Thanks! :confused:
 

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Allot of eibach springs require time to reach their predetermined drop. Give it about two weeks and it "should" drop the full amount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. Got it taken care of when I took it into the alignment shop. He loosened the rear links and then tightened them all while the car was sitting full weight on the tires. That did the trick...
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the install. A friend of mine did most of the work and if we had it to do over again, I think I'd have a shop do it...
 

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AJ Maggot said:
I have a question regarding the eibach pro kit spring installation. A buddy and I installed a pro kit on my 300C this weekend and while the front turned out fine, the rear didn't drop but about a half-inch. Eibach suggests cutting 25mm off the rear bump stops which we didn't do (which leads me to believe that's where we went wrong) as I'm not sure where they are. Are they at the top of spring or inside rear damper?
To anyone who has installed a set, could you please advise as to what you cut, and how you cut. I'm not sure if that is the reason it didn't drop as it does not seem to be sitting on the bump stops now. Any ideas would be appreciated.Thanks! :confused:
The REAR bump stops are located inside the dust boot at the top of the shock absorber. They are made of a foam type of product and all you need to do is chop off the top layer. I just installed them yesterday and was as confused as you until I was told by Eibach where the bump stops were. Good news is that getting to the bump stop now is a piece of cake, just remove the shock, the top of the shock, the dust boot and viola you will see the bump stop in each one. Hope this helps.
 

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What would happen if you left the bump stops in?

Why didn't the front hit the bump stops?

I'm interested because I don't want a 1 & 1/2 inch drop.
 

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Tornnight said:
What would happen if you left the bump stops in?

Why didn't the front hit the bump stops?

I'm interested because I don't want a 1 & 1/2 inch drop.
It probably would ride about 1" higher in the rear. The front does not require any cutting to the bump stops
 

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Is camber kit needed?

Hello,

I've read someting about an Eibach pro kit that lowers the 300c by 2 inches. I'm just wondering if a camber kit would be needed and if it does, will be included with the kit. Also, how much will the pro kit cost and if it doesn't come with the camber kit, how much will that be too.

Thanks. :cool:
 

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JDoubleU529 said:
Hello,

I've read someting about an Eibach pro kit that lowers the 300c by 2 inches. I'm just wondering if a camber kit would be needed and if it does, will be included with the kit. Also, how much will the pro kit cost and if it doesn't come with the camber kit, how much will that be too.

Thanks. :cool:
The LX does not have adjustable camber you have to move the carraige. After the 1.6" drop I am off +/-.04 on camber but dead on with caster and toe. Have not decided what I am going to do about it seems like moving the carraige is a PITA and may require some different bolts.
 

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I wouldn't suggest cutting bump stops. The only thing that will do is that wind up ruining your shocks/struts prematurely. By having extra compression on your struts you are over-pressurizing the fluid/gas in there. On the Eibachs definitely give them 200-300 miles to settle before aligning them as they will settle and then you'll need to re-align the car again.

-mike
 

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AJ Maggot said:
I have a question regarding the eibach pro kit spring installation. A buddy and I installed a pro kit on my 300C this weekend and while the front turned out fine, the rear didn't drop but about a half-inch. Eibach suggests cutting 25mm off the rear bump stops which we didn't do (which leads me to believe that's where we went wrong) as I'm not sure where they are. Are they at the top of spring or inside rear damper?
To anyone who has installed a set, could you please advise as to what you cut, and how you cut. I'm not sure if that is the reason it didn't drop as it does not seem to be sitting on the bump stops now. Any ideas would be appreciated.Thanks! :confused:
Hey AJ, am getting my springs put on tomorrow. Hows the ride? any regrets to lowering the car? Any hints in installing to avoid any problems?
 

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Paisan said:
I wouldn't suggest cutting bump stops. The only thing that will do is that wind up ruining your shocks/struts prematurely. By having extra compression on your struts you are over-pressurizing the fluid/gas in there. On the Eibachs definitely give them 200-300 miles to settle before aligning them as they will settle and then you'll need to re-align the car again.
I disagree. Anytime I've lowered a car (many times) I've always cut the bumpstops. It will help with "pogo" and make the ride nicer. Conversely, I've never placed lowering springs on OEM struts. The shaving won't compress the struts that much more, but I'd look into some struts for the near future. Just my $.02 :eek:
 

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Nobody has mentioned how much of an improvement in handleing they have gotten by lowering the car. I am going with the Eibach 1.6" pro kit (part# 2873.140) and the anti-roll bars (part# 2871.320). Has anyone else gone with both? and does it take out the body roll like I am hopeing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I should have checked this thread more often... :eek:

I am very happy with the eibachs. I must admit I did it mostly for aesthetic value as opposed to feeling it was necessary from a performance standpoint. I did think the ride was a little too soft though and now it leans and dives a little less. It "feels" like it handles better as it seems a little more responsive and quicker steering. I don't have any laptimes to prove it however. :)
The ride suffered a little, but not much. Only on some slow-speed road imperfections like potholes and expansion joints am I reminded I changed the springs. I have scraped bottom on a particularly nasty speed-bump in a parking lot however, so one must be careful.

By the way, we did cut the rear bumpstops and it still did not come down. The alignment shop finally got the rear to drop when he did the alignment. We apparently failed to loosen the upper links enough or something...
 

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Thanks for the info AJ. I was keeping in mind your previous post about loosening and then tightening on the ground. That might come in handy in case the installer has the same problem. I hope the heavier anti-sway bars give it that "riding on rails" feel that I am looking for. Of course the aesthetic value is not to be underestimated either, it is a great look on the 300C! Are you running stock Wheels and rubber? From what you said about the ride, perhaps I should be considering going 20" this spring instead of 22"
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have not done the anti-sway bars, but I'd guess you'll be happy with the results. I may do the Pro-dampers if/when they become available. I'm still running the stock wheels/tires.
I plan on going with 20's later, when the 245/45-20 tires are available. Of course that changes every week or so when I see pictures of 22's that look great...lol
I think I'm in the minority, but I'd like to do something in a "classic" or "vintage" wheel. Perhaps an American Racing Torque Thrust II, or something from Billet Specialties. A set of 20" Cragar S/S's would be nice...
 

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AJ We both might be in the minority but I was thinking the same way. With the chopped roofline hotrod look I thought Crager S/S's would be perfect, If they have the correct size.

Thanks for the lowering info!
 
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