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So topside removal is not as simple as we thought? It doesn't seem to save any time compared to going below. At least your labour rate was reasonable. I had my alternator replaced by a Chrysler dealership (now defunct) - much more expensive labour rates plus a brand new (not re-con) alternator, so you can imagine how much that must have cost! At least it came with 2 yrs warranty. My old alternator is languishing in the garage; just needs new brush and slipring gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Apparently not. My first garage tried the underside removal and reckoned it couldn't be done. IN fairness, they are mainly a tyre bar but do suspension stuff as well. I use them as I trust them and have a good relationship with them , but they admitted defeat as they had no way to support the engine easily, but then they also reckloned there wasn't room to get it out even after mount removal etc.. My other local garage is also very good and as you say, they gave me a very good price- half what Chrysler wanted. Ah, for the good old days where you just slacken a bolt or two on the alternator and slide the belt off and remove it. Last one I did was a Pajero and probably took about half an hour. I hear the V8 is simple as pii...
 

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My driving experience pre-dates alternators and goes back to dynamos, with fan belt tensioning being achieved by adjustment of the mountings. I think you had to make sure that there was no more than 1/2" play on the longest run of the belt. I always carried a spare belt in the car, as replacement was an easy roadside job, although I never needed to do it. Until recently, I'd never experienced dynamo/alternator failure. So much for modern technology - new isn't always better!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My '47 Lanchester was similar... ;) And it had a preselector gearbox. Nothing's new... And if the starter or battery wasn't up to it, you'd pull out the starter handle, same on the '$7 Minx. And I remember changing a wheelbearing on the A205 at Lewisham at the side of the road in my old Spitfire. Those were the days!

I think it's all the electrickery in them. In my day, you could pour water or even WD40 in an alternator and it would still be fine (just keep away from the bearings). Nowadays, just sneeze near them and they're gone. So much for progress...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Just had a PM over this so this is the reply I wrote to add further info for anyone else:


I replaced the alternator and it cured all those problems. Voltage was again14.6 at idle. Got mine off ebay for £149 including postage of old one back and it's done nearly a 100k miles so far with no more issues. I fitted the oil catch tray bit that fits on top of the alternator to stop oil/diesel getting in which causes the issue. £12 or so from Chrysler. This is essential. And check the fuel pipes near the oil filler cap are tight and not leaking too. I also fitted the swirl flap motor resistor mod and later had to change the glow plug module. I bought 6 bosch glow plugs but STILL haven't fitted them despite 3 being dead...
I've had about 80k miles trouble free (except suspension of course, which proved that cheap parts were a false economy and only fitting the Moog parts stopped them re going again in no time) until recently when I blew a rad and an aircon pipe, both jobs easy to do at the same time, but the whole front bumper HAS to come off to remove 2 bolts holding the intercooler on so the rad can come out. And a bit of brainstorming to work out that the fitting on the bottom rad hose has a funny circular bayonet type fitting. There's a grey plastic sleeve that needs rotating about 5 degrees to release the hose which I found absolutely no reference to anywhere. A little while after I got rid of the ever leaking charge pipe resonator/silencer (black plastic kidney monstosity) and replaced it with 2 bits of 2.5" silicone hose, a 90degree 2.5" stainless steel pipe and a load of T Clamps. This stopped the leaking but very quickly threw up more nasty fault codes relating to a knackered turbo/EGR (P0403 P0046 iirc). Turned out to be a knackered Turbo Actuator which is dead easy to change and send off for £80 to be reconned. No more troubles since..
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just done this lovely job again, this time I did it myself. Alternator just gave up out of the blue.




Used this guide to do mine. Got a garage to do it last time and took them 5hrs. 100k miles later it took me 6hrs including a couple of other jobs while there. Found it easier to remove the ABS pump wires and push the intercooler hose down under the radiator support. First one failed from oil and diesel ingress, second was a recon and just gave up. Was slightly oily but no diesel. Got another recon from the same supplier (oddly £120 instead of £150 3 years ago) and will ask them if they can tell me why it failed this time. Yes, there is a major oil leak from the oil cooler but not anything much around the alternator area. Not too hard to do myself just annoying that it's always when it's bloody cold! At least it wasn't raining like the lower rad hose job last weekend....
 
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