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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I was playing in the car all day on the audio system. I had the negative battery terminal off and back on twice, and I removed the factory amplifier and the 2 black plastic harnesses that attach to the black part on the amp (part reads Siemens).

I put the black part (Siemens) back under the dash, with the harnesses back in place.

Since then I am getting the Engine light on during start, and if I am reading the system correctly (it goes like this: DOOR AJAR, then it is showing OIL PRESSURE 19 PSI (then when you hit the gas the oil pressure reading increases) and then it scrolls to giving the reading of the oil temp as well. I assume these are Codes saying probs possibly with the OIL Pressure or Temp?

Car was running a little hot I though, last night it was running 225 deg after like 5 min of idle. Then it came down to 212-214 after driving a short distance...

Did I mess something up by removing the 2 wire harnesses attached to the black device on the amp (by the way this item I do not think had any connection to the audio as far as I know it was simply attacched to the amp by 2 screws). Or is this a problem that will need to be addressed by the dealer?
 

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The fact you hit the gas and OP increases is a clue the system is working (how accurately is anyone's guess). I know several folks have had a CEL come on after various mods but TMK never a low OP reading. These CELs have generally gone off after a day or two. You may have triggered the light but certainly did not cause low OP. I would have it checked and be very careful on the sequence of events as to how this happened, DC is just itching to void warranties. I am not suggesting you lie but no point in giving a lot of info they don't need, your low OP needs to be addressed. They should check with an external OP guage to see if it is low, I imagine a device like this exists and I am sure they have never heard of one. Gluck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
II kings 9:20 said:
low OP reading. These CELs have generally gone off after a day or two. You may have triggered the light but certainly did not cause low OP.
So, 19 PSI at idle is low? I am not very savvy on autos but it is weird that I did not even drive the thing today and the light came on, I bet I messed something up with one of the multitude of computers in there...
 

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Just checked the manual, 4psi. minimum at idle! At 3000 rpm it should be between 25-110 psi. Quite the range I would say!
 

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My old 300E would drop to near 0 at idle. Your problem is you have a low OP warning showing up, not just a CEL. Maybe a fluke and if 19 is indeed not low then give a few days and allow it to re boot.
 

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To check your CEL, turn on the ignition - let the lights go out and then turn off/on 3 times, on the 3 time, leave it in the on position, it will flash your CEL code - you can then look it up on the FAQ for codes.
I've had a CEL 2x in the last 3 months - P0520 - oil pressure sending unit sensor. I monitored OP though and it was fine, and light cycled off...
No codes with dealer
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
5point7 said:
To check your CEL, turn on the ignition - let the lights go out and then turn off/on 3 times, on the 3 time, leave it in the on position, it will flash your CEL code -
I tried this and I could not do it. I actually started the car, let the lights clear, then stop and start 3 more times (turn the car off, then start it up again...).
 

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Here's the thread - see posts #25 and 27.

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377&page=3&pp=10

(from arnoldw)

If someone can check this, I think it would be cool. Note that "ON" is just far enough to turn on all warning lights, but not enough to start. "Off" is just far enough back to turn those off. This should be done quickly, maybe 3-5 seconds for the turns, door closed.

1. Insert key.
2. Rotate key to ON
3. Rotate key OFF
4. On
5. Off
6. ON

So it's on the third time that you stop with the key ON. Any applicable codes should be displayed. If there are none, it should display "dONE" in the odometer window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
arnoldw said:
Don't start it, just turn the key off/on really quick. On the third time just leave it on.
Actually I was turning the key all the way to the left... You need to start the car, then turn it to acc then on, acc then on, acc then on.

Thank you!

Says code U0101
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Canbus lost connection with TCM

This is an audio prob. I wonder if the dealer can just clear the code?

possible causes

CAN B or CAN C BUS Circuits open or shorted
DTCS Related to Battery Voltage, Ignition, or VIN Messages
FCM Not configured correctly
TCM
TCM Power and ground
Module that set this DTC
 

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Interesting..was your battery disconnected when you disconnected the amp? Maybe try disconnecting it and the reconnecting after a few minutes?

I hope you didn't fry anything...
Good luck on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
arnoldw said:
Isn't the TCM the transmission control module?
In the manual I have the u0101 code is related to the Can bus audio crap... The battery was disconnect when I hooked up my new amp, but when I discd the factory amp (there were no wires even connected to the amp, just the wiring to the black box on top of the amp) the battery was not discod. Maybe I will try to disco the battery till morning, think that would hurt anything?
 

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Wouldn't hurt to disconnect the bat overnight - just don't forget all of the battery disconnect reset procedures - windows, esp, and throttle recal.
If it's not flashing, and the car works, trying doing 3 to 5 short trips, turning the car off and then back on to try to cycle it off.
If that doesn't work..?
 

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Should be ok to disconnect the battery. Don't know if it will help though. You may need a scan tool to erase the code. Or it might erase itself after a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the help guys... I am going to drive by the dealer, see if he will simply clear the codes if that is all the prob is. On the way to work I will make a couple pit stops (coffee, paper, doughnuts, stripclub..) and see what happens after work.

I don't think I fried anything, I think all will be better tomorrow. Thanks for the support!

What is the throttle recalc? I will look it up here, I am sure it is on this site!
 

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Believe it or not 19PSI at idle with the engine hot isn't as bad as it sounds. So long as the oil pressure increases back between 50 and 60 when you blip the throttle you should be fine.

However, this varies from car to car and I cannot tell you if this is within DC specs for the Hemi. I would do further research or take it in.

Afterall, you didn't say the oil light came on right?
 
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