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Discussion Starter #1
So car recently had a rod knock issue and I was sitting on it to weigh my options whether to sell it or fix it. Its definitely an expensive repair. My love for the car got the better of me so it's being repaired.

Well the engine is open. Is there any key things I should possibly do for a little more power?
 

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IMO, $$$$ would be the only limiting factor to what you can do, depending on what your goals are for the vehicle. Cam for sure though, and stroker, head work, power adder(s), etc. depending on your preferences.
 

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There are many to choose from, again, depending on your goals for the vehicle. In any case, whatever direction you go in, be sure to do lots of research FIRST and, if it is going to be a daily driver, don't go too radical. Personally, I run Comp. cams in all three of my Hemi's....two 5.7's and a 6.1, and all the cams are relatively mild so as not to adversely affect driveability and low end performance too much. This is just my opinion on what works best for me on the street with an occasional trip to the drags..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I was looking at the comp cams too, was really liking the 273. I'm not trying to make it a crazy drag car. Just trying to make wake the 6.1 up so more. It's going to be a daily.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Crank couldn't be saved. Its basically impossible to find a used one. Anyone know a budget friendly way to solve this issue.
 

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If it were me, I'd bite the bullet and get a stoker kit and call it good. Is the crank beyond the ability to be turned and use oversize bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I came across a camshaft from a family member of mine and we've been trying to find specs on it for a few days now.

225/235 @ .050
.576 .584 lift w/1.6 rockers
116 LSA.

Should I get some 1.6 rockers? And which are recommended?
 

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IMO, those sound like pretty good specs. The higher LSA moves the power curve to a higher RPM, but the 6.1 makes enough power so it probably wouldn't matter that much. The one I have in my 6.1 has a 113 LSA and is noticeably stronger on the low end than the stock cam was. Also, IIRC, the stock rockers are either 1.6 or 1.7. All of the cams in mine run stock rockers, 6.1 pushrods, PAC1235 valve springs on both 5.7's, and stock 6.1 valve springs on the 6.1.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So GREAT NEWS!

Engine is in and running with new cam and pushrods. Clearance is great. Sound is eargasmic.

Buuuuuttt.....

The car won't stay on unless I gas it a little. I'm able to get as low as ~1000rpms and it stays on but once it drops lower it bogs out.

Any solutions?

Car is completely stock besides Pushrods and Cam.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Did you adjust the tune? I had that issue with my startup tune but a quick log and email emap fixed it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took to a tune shop, they said they couldn't help me. They kept getting readings of no throttle response.

I purchased a new throttle body and new gas pedal. Still no throttle response.
 

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If the old throttle body worked before the engine work, it should still work afterward. If you're getting absolutely no throttle response, something else is going on andy you'll need to stick a diagnostic scanner on it to see what'going on. Check all wiring at the PCM and the TB first to make sure everything is hooked up properly. That cam is not overly radical to the point where is shouldn't run.....above idle, as long as it's installed properly. Generally, the more radical cams have idle issues, but you should still be able to drive it down the street if everything is set up correctly. What kind of valve springs are in it? Also, are the pushrods for a 6.1? Ultimately you'll definitely need to have some sort of tune for it though. I stayed away from the more radical cams so I wouldn't have these issues. I run advanced FRI Sidewinder cams in both of my 5.7's and a Comp XFI Series No. 112-500-11 in my 6.1. The cam specs. for all of them is nearly the same......good low end/mid-range, good idle with a slight lope and slightly lagging on the top. Power really starts coming on at about 2500-2800 RPM
 

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Discussion Starter #16
They're new springs OEM spec.

I used my Predator to check codes and all I get is gas pedal codes. And lightning bolt light on dash also.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I got a tune emailed to me from Diablotoona, idles better and what not but still have no gas pedal response at all. I hit the gas, nada!

Red lightning bolt in parentheses is on too
 

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Glad you got it to idle. Lightning bolt is the throttle system....the throttle body and its circuitry. Have you checked all the connections and wiring between the PCM and the TB?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, all connections look good, no damages visible.

Throttle jumps around when idling so the actual throttle body seems good.

I've swapped the gas pedal as well but get no response. Made a video but cant upload it.

Got a while lot of codes now tho. I ended up putting back old throttle body and it ran even better but got more codes.

Refer to pic
 

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Have you put a "high quality" diagnostic scanner on it to check all engine management modules? That's one of the first things I'd do. A cheapo scanner won't have the capabilities you need to check, test, and set up most of the components. I have an Autel MS906BT and it pretty much does it all.....more than I know what to do with for sure.
 
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