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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This FAQ is currently in development. Please feel free to post any suggestions or comments.

I need confimation of proper offset for proper fender alignment on a 22x9 wheel setup. Anyone?

Tommy can you verify the information about the 27"s is correct? Thanks.

What bolt pattern fits my 300c?
5x115mm is proper for the 2005 Chrysler 300. The 2004 Chrysler 300m was 5x114.3mm.

What 22" wheel width is best for the 300c?
There has been concern in the past with 22x9" tires rubbing against the front upper control arm bolt at high speed. There are quite a few forum members running 22x9" with no issues so I will provide you the following links to allow you to decide. Link 1 Link 2 Link 3

What Offset is proper for a 22"x9.5" Wheel?
18-21mm will fit properly depending on the fit you want within the fenderwell. 18mm lines up nearly perfect with the fender lip.

What Offset is proper for a 22"x9" Wheel?
15-21mm will fit properly depending on the fit you want within the fenderwell.

Can I fit a 22x10" Wheel?
Only a few members have. With proper offset it should fit, but you will run into rubbing issues with more than a few people in your car and on bad roads. Most people running 22x10" are also using spacers, which is not recommended by most reputable shops.

Why shouldn't I use spacers?
My dad always told me if you can't do something right, don't do it at all. Spacers are a bandaid to a fitment issue. Get a proper sized wheel with a proper offset and you won't run into any issues.

What is the ideal 22" Setup then?
Most forum members are running 22x9.5" with an 18-22mm offset on a 265/35/22. This setup will cause no rubbing no matter how many dead bodies you care to stuff in your trunk.

Who makes a good tire in 22"
Pirelli P Zero, Continental SportContact 2, Nitto Extreme 555. Avoid cheaper tires like Hankook or Kumo if you can. Continental also makes a 265/30/22 and a 265/25/22 for show cars ONLY.

I can get a full set of wheels and tires shipped to my house for less than $1500. Is this a good deal?
You get what you pay for when it comes down to wheels and tires. The cheaper the wheel, the more likely it is to bend on potholes. Wheels CAN be straightened and repaired but only a few times before they become worthless and lose their strength. A fair price for a good set of 22" Wheels and tires will cost anywhere from $2500 on up. $3000 is a very common pricepoint for a reputable brand of wheel with nice tires. Pricing can go all the way up to $7000 for a set of forged multipiece wheels.

Can I fit anything larger than a 22" on my 300?
Not without relocating the upper control arm and redoing the suspension geometry. There have been a few showcars with 23", but they are showcars, and the control arm bolt/control arm assembly was most likely modified to fit them.

But I saw a car on this forum running 27" wheels!
TommyZ is the member and owner of this car. The wheels are actually 22" With a custom made Nitto 305-45-22/27 Tire. There is a 5" Lip on the wheel to make it appear to be 27". Custom spindles were made specifically for this vehicle for the 2004 SEMA show. The tires had to be grinded for it to be somewhat driveable. This is a show only mod.

Can I install the Eibach Sportline or Pro kit with 22" wheels?
Yes, a few forum members are currently running this setup. Be aware that most of these members have rubbing issues at some point, whether it be hard turns at high speed, speed bumps, or too many people in the back seat. Rolling the fender lip can further reduce rubbing to a minimum.

Do I need to get my computer recalibrated for my new wheels/tires?
The dealer is incapable of recalibrating your computer to any tire size above the factory 18". Keep your wheel and tire setup within 3% of the same overall diameter as the stock 18" Setup. Use this calculator Differences between stock and 265/35/22:

Factory 225/60/18
Sidewall: 5.3 inches
Radius: 14.3 inches
Diameter: 28.6 inches
Circumf: 89.9 inches
revs/mi: 704.0

Aftermarket 265/35/22s
Sidewall: 3.7 inches
Radius: 14.7 inches
Diameter: 29.3 inches
Circumf: 92.1 inches
Revs/mi: 688.0

How will my ride quality be affected going to 22"?
This is a hot topic that has been debated time and time again. I feel there have been quite a few inaccurate representations of 22" ride quality on this forum, and I think its very important that a realistic representation is provided for you to decide. Some people feel their ride quality is better with 22". Why? Their interpretation of ride quality is different than someone elses. Some people are used to harsh truck ride characterstics, others are used to Cadillac Smoothness. That said, my own automotive history has been filled with lowered vehicles, upgraded tires, and custom wheels on nearly every car I have owned. The following post was taken from this thread about ride quality which I highly recommend reading thouroughly.

I feel it important to reiterate the fact that ride quality and road vibration on 22" is not better than stock rims. I am posting this because over the past 3 weeks I have gained quite a bit of experience with my 22" wheels and have some observations. I have no intention of arguing with anyone, I just want the truth in MY situation to be stated. I see a lot of people claiming the ride is better than stock and I don't want anyone to be mislead.

While some of you may believe that your ride quality has improved, I think its a case of denial. I've driven many cars with upgraded rims and tires, and never once, has going to a larger wheel improved ride quality. Lower profile tires ride harsher, its reality. The suspension on my Audi A4 was trashed after 70k miles on 18x8.5" wheels.

Handling improved? yes indeed. More rubber on the road...

Lets do a few tests:

1. Drive with your pinky finger only on the stock tires. Then do so with your 22"s and post your results. You will see a noticeable difference in movement in the steering wheel. These cars tend to have quite a bit of bumpsteer with the stock wheels and tires. This is dampened by the higher profile and cushion of the stock 18" tires. I have had SCARY bumpsteer experiences with the 22"s. Had I not been gripping my wheel tightly and corrected the steering, I would have easily hopped over into the other lane or onto a curb. The bumpsteer is drastically magnified with 22" wheels and 265/30/22 tires. Please be careful where you try this. If you hit a pothole or imperfection in the road, your steering wheel WILL jerk and your pinky isn't going to be enough to handle the bumpsteer.

2. Throw your car into a turn way too fast. TRY and toss that rear end out a bit. With the stock wheels and tires, this will be controlled by ESP and be quite a smooth turn. The ESP system gives a lot of confidence to most drivers. That confidence is tossed out the window. Now try that with your 22" Wheels. Hop Hop hop. Scary isn't it? If you aren't experiencing this, you havent pushed the limits of you vehicle on the 22" wheels. (not that I endorse this) Find a large parking lot like I did and you'll see what I mean. The suspension and ESP was not designed with the 22" wheels in mind. It no longer feels 'right'.

All that said and done, its important to recognize a few facts.

Wheels don't get any lighter than a forged 3 piece design. Generally, 3 piece are racing wheels and I had assumed this would provide a slight performance increase over heavy cast wheels. I was dead wrong. The wheel and tire package is about 10 pounds heavier per wheel than the stock tires. I can't imagine heavier wheels would handle or ride better than a forged setup.

22" tires are expensive. I doubt any of you will be lighting them up too often or entering any drifting competitions any time soon I still like to know what the limits of my vehicle are, and there is no better place than an airport or large parking lot to explore those limits. Consider an autocross event if you dont want to have a meeting with a police officer. The limits of my car are downgraded with 22" wheels and tires.

Don't upgrade your wheels to 22" unless you want to adjust your driving style. Regardless of what anyone says, they HAVE adjusted their driving style to 22" wheels and their ride quality has changed.

I love the way my car looks, Love the extra rubber on the ground, and love the looks people give.

I hate the bumpsteer, hate the road vibration through the steering wheel, hate having to constantly avoid bumps, grates, and potholes, and I hate parallel parking next to curbs.

Stick with 20" if you drive a lot. 22" is fine on a daily driver, but prepare to make some sacrifices. I still have no intention of swapping mine out for 20"s but my opinions have changed since driving for 3 weeks. I'm willing to make the sacrifice to give the car "the look" but some of you may not.


Take my post with or without a grain of salt. I still love my 22" Wheels as much as the day I mounted them, but there are indeed sacrifices. Make your own decision on whether or not the sacrifices mean that much to YOU. ;)
 

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exactly right rogue, this was a serious undertaking ..and is only for show cars..also nitto just released the new nitto 420 tire, i just got a set and they are awesome ! 265/35/22 the pattern is kool and they handle like a rubberband. my friends at lexani have just finished a 300c with 22"8.5 front and 22x10 rear asanti 3pc obviously the fronts hae 3" lip and the rears have a HUGE 5" lip...this look is very kool and very unique... also 23"s will fit without modification for you young guys that want to stunt the "old men" in your area , with a 295/30/23 " tire....thats all for now but im planning on you rogue to do a wheel /tire section in the new C -magazine .....
tz
 

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I dont know if I should post this here but here I go.

First off, this post is the best information I have seen in this Forum. With that said. Could you or anybody do the same for 20" wheels? I know alot of people would appreciate it. Me being one of them.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Goose said:
I dont know if I should post this here but here I go.

First off, this post is the best information I have seen in this Forum. With that said. Could you or anybody do the same for 20" wheels? I know alot of people would appreciate it. Me being one of them.

Thanks
Planning on it. Just give me some time. ;)
 

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Rogue
seriously... THANK YOU FROM EVERYONE here for taking the time to post this. I have no intention on 22's but like Goose, I will be considering 20's. Whenever you get around to writing it, we will be ready to read it.
Thanks again,
KC
 

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My FAQ

Rogue,

I really appreciate the write up to the FAQs, but you did not touch the topic that has given me the most hesitation in ordering my 22" TIS wheels. Brakes. Everyone says that you will trash your stock brakes with a heavier wheel/tire combo and those must be replaced as well. I can see dropping 3K on rims and tires, but another 3K on BRAKES?!?!

Could you please comment on my FAQ?

Thanks again,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mikew2069 said:
Rogue,

I really appreciate the write up to the FAQs, but you did not touch the topic that has given me the most hesitation in ordering my 22" TIS wheels. Brakes. Everyone says that you will trash your stock brakes with a heavier wheel/tire combo and those must be replaced as well. I can see dropping 3K on rims and tires, but another 3K on BRAKES?!?!

Could you please comment on my FAQ?

Thanks again,
Mike
I plan on gathering some info on this subject for another FAQ, and have asked some professionals with some experience on the topic to help me out. I'll try and get it up soon.

FWIW my brakes are fine, I feel safe, and I've pushed them to the limit on a track with my 22"s, brake fade and all. Did the 22"s affect my braking distance and stopping power? Yes. Do I feel it is dangerous? No not in the slightest. If they were 24"s I would be downright scared.

22"s on the factory brakes should be safe for more people as long as their driving style is adjusted accordingly. For those shaking their head saying "But what happens during an emergency braking situation? You won't be able to stop in time!"

My response is simply, "Maybe I should have bought the touring instead of the C so I wouldn't drive so damn fast in the first place!!!" :D

You only live once...

I plan on upgrading my front brakes purely for cosmetic purposes.
 

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rouge

1) Thank You
2) Damn good info
3) As already asked, info on 20s please, when you have the time
4) Can you also explain tire width? I like wider tires and would like you to explain the positives and negatives.

Thanks
 

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rogue said:
I plan on gathering some info on this subject for another FAQ, and have asked some professionals with some experience on the topic to help me out. I'll try and get it up soon.

FWIW my brakes are fine, I feel safe, and I've pushed them to the limit on a track with my 22"s, brake fade and all. Did the 22"s affect my braking distance and stopping power? Yes. Do I feel it is dangerous? No not in the slightest. If they were 24"s I would be downright scared.

22"s on the factory brakes should be safe for more people as long as their driving style is adjusted accordingly. For those shaking their head saying "But what happens during an emergency braking situation? You won't be able to stop in time!"

My response is simply, "Maybe I should have bought the touring instead of the C so I wouldn't drive so damn fast in the first place!!!" :D

You only live once...

I plan on upgrading my front brakes purely for cosmetic purposes.
I'm just a little nervous about the long term wear and tear of the brakes. I will be looking forward to your post on the subject.
 

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mikew2069 said:
I really appreciate the write up to the FAQs, but you did not touch the topic that has given me the most hesitation in ordering my 22" TIS wheels. Brakes. Everyone says that you will trash your stock brakes with a heavier wheel/tire combo and those must be replaced as well. I can see dropping 3K on rims and tires, but another 3K on BRAKES?!?!
I think my post on this topic in another thread may answer some of your questions and put your mind at ease: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=36662#post36662
 

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DZeckhausen said:
I think my post on this topic in another thread may answer some of your questions and put your mind at ease: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=36662#post36662
Perhaps it would be better to simply paste the full text of my other post into this thread, since it does relate:

Northern Rider said:
That leads us to the second problem. The combined unsprung weight of the 22" TIS wheel and tire go way beyond the specs of the factory brakes. In other words, the brakes are prone to overheating and failure when trying to cope with a panic stop at high speeds.
The front brakes on the 300C consist of huge, 2-piston calipers with 345mm x 28mm rotors. The rear brakes on the 300C are the same diameter as the "normal" non-Hemi 300, but they are vented 22mm thick rotors instead of the solid rotors in the 300. There's no way the addition of a set of 22" wheels is going to cause you brake failure during a single panic stop. These brakes were designed for some serious driving. And they are more than adequate to handle the demands of a street driven 300C with 22" wheels.

As much as I would love to sell a set of Brembo or StopTech big brakes to everyone out there with a 300C and bigger, heavier wheels, I won't do it based on fear mongering. There are advantages to the bigger brakes, but preventing "brake failure" during a single panic stop is not one of them.

If you plan to put your car through some serious driving conditions, such as one might find on an open track day or a high speed driving school, then your stock brakes can be improved upon to reduce the tendency toward fade following repeated braking from high speed. If they were available, track pads such as the Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 10, combined with Motul 600 brake fluid, would be more than enough to take your 300C through the toughest high-speed road racing course with stock rotors and calipers. But the pad shape is new and race friction is not yet available. So for those who want to track their cars this year, the big brake kits are the best option. Perhaps next year, some race friction will become available for the Magnum RT, 300C, and 2006 Charger RT brakes.

Keep in mind that the amount of heat created during a given stop is a function of the mass of the vehicle and a function of the square of the velocity. So adding weight adds some stress to the brakes. But adding speed exponentially increases stress to the brakes. For example, a slowdown from 120 mph to 104 mph creates the same amount of heat as a complete stop from 60 mph. So it's the ultra high speed driving that creates real demands on your brakes, not the addition of a set of wheels that weigh, perhaps, 10-15 pounds more per corner.
 

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I really appreciate that response DZ. I'm starting to get much more comfortable with the idea of adding my 22s. I will mainly be doing it for aesthetic purposes and I don't plan on driving my C like a maniac, so I think I should be fine.

Thanks again
 

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Rogue: I haven't posted in a while but you truly are the man! I still have my sequence 22's....................waiting on some custom lug nuts and the weather to improve!
 

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now, i know that the proper bolt pattern is 5x115 but my wheel guy swears that 5x114.3 will fit just fine. he say's that the .7mm difference won't matter as long as the offset is correct they should fit. .7mm doesn't seem like a whole lot. just wondering if it'll fit. shouldn't it??
-brian-
 

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Discussion Starter #17
apbrian112 said:
now, i know that the proper bolt pattern is 5x115 but my wheel guy swears that 5x114.3 will fit just fine. he say's that the .7mm difference won't matter as long as the offset is correct they should fit. .7mm doesn't seem like a whole lot. just wondering if it'll fit. shouldn't it??
-brian-

Your wheel guy sounds shady. I would find a better shop. Do something right or don't do it at all. ;) :p
 

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apbrian112 said:
now, i know that the proper bolt pattern is 5x115 but my wheel guy swears that 5x114.3 will fit just fine. he say's that the .7mm difference won't matter as long as the offset is correct they should fit. .7mm doesn't seem like a whole lot. just wondering if it'll fit. shouldn't it??
-brian-
Run away!! 0.7mm is a lot when it comes to mating machined surfaces together.
 

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^^^ well i picked them up already, he told me that if i have any problems mounting them, that i'd get a full refund so i'm not too worried about it, i know where he lives. =)
-brian-
 

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apbrian112 said:
now, i know that the proper bolt pattern is 5x115 but my wheel guy swears that 5x114.3 will fit just fine. he say's that the .7mm difference won't matter as long as the offset is correct they should fit. .7mm doesn't seem like a whole lot. just wondering if it'll fit. shouldn't it??
-brian-


Fit??? Yes, they will fit. Is it Correct? NO You will get very unwanted vibration that will get anoying. It could potentialy mess up other parts of your car with time. I strongly DO NOT recomend it. Im sure 99.99% of other members would not recomend either. If you are going to spend all that money you want something to be done right. Go find yourself another wheel dealer. Dont trust that guy, he obiously only wants to make a sale. If he really cared he would have your best interest in mind and would have told you not to use the incorrect lug pattern.

Just my $.05.
 
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