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Hi all, I am a Chrysler mechanic working at a dealer for 16 years. I had a member contact me asking about his flickering aftermarket xenons, I don't really frequent the forums here so I was unaware of the problems but was asked if a tech could use the StarScan to tell the car that it had xenons in order to prevent the flickering. I looked through the StarScan but did not come across anything so I did some more investigating as to what the problem everyone was having. The member informed me that the kits were of good quality and are basically just plug and play. My initial thoughts were the kits were not up to any sort of standard and may have required different transformers, etc for the higher operating voltage.

I quickly viewed the wiring schematic for a 2007 300C SRT8 to see what would be different from one with HID's and one without. I see that according to the schematic that the only real difference (besides one or two wires) was a relay. The front control module (FCM) recieves a signal from the headlamp switch telling it that the headlamp mode has been selected. The FCM will then send a power signal out. Now if you have basic headlamps power goes from the FCM to the headlamps. If you have HID's power goes to a relay in the power distribution center and thus turns the relay on. This relay then feeds power to the HID lamps which will turn them on. This protects the FCM from any high current drawn by the HID's.

My thoughts here are that the aftermarket kits are plugged directly into the regular headlamp connector and the added current of running the xenon's is causing the FCM to attempt to protect itself by cycling the power to the bulbs or turning them off altogether. My recommendation (if it was my car) is I would set up the system like the factory HID's and add the relay in the PDC and run the wires from the FCM to this relay and a power wire from the relay to the aftermarket xenons. I see that several companies sell harnesses with capacitors in them, I would assume that this works but still may cause problems with the delicate circuitry of the modules in the circuit. I have not tested my theory so I can't comment on if it works or not. Please see attached schematic as it should clear up any confusion from my descriptions. I hope this helps someone down the road and helps create an alternative to purchasing more parts to make the lights run properly.

Mike

 
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