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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was planning to replace the front pads on my wife's 2016, however when I removed the old pads, the inner one showed unusual wear. In checking the inner side of the rotor, it had a large ridge on it, and the inner pad was only being half worn. So, I guess I have to replace the rotors also. Does anyone know the torque setting for the caliper bracket bolts? And does an anti seize need to be used. (My old Buick called for anti seize) One more question, can someone confirm that the caliper bolts are torqued to 44 lb/ft. Thank you for any assistance you can offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was planning to replace the front pads on my wife's 2016, however when I removed the old pads, the inner one showed unusual wear. In checking the inner side of the rotor, it had a large ridge on it, and the inner pad was only being half worn. So, I guess I have to replace the rotors also. Does anyone know the torque setting for the caliper bracket bolts? And does an anti seize need to be used. (My old Buick called for anti seize) One more question, can someone confirm that the caliper bolts are torqued to 44 lb/ft. Thank you for any assistance you can offer.
Sorry, not anti seize, I meant a thread lock liquid.
 

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Uneven pad wear is an indicator of a caliper issue as well. At the bare minimum make sure to disassemble, inspect, and lube the slide pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for your reply. I have had numerous Haynes manuals over the years. They were helpful to say the least. I am an old fart now, probably my last brake job. I like my wife to be safe, but we might trade the 16 in, and she can have my 19, and I will buy a 21/22 and she can bury me in it.
 

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Thank you for your reply. I have had numerous Haynes manuals over the years. They were helpful to say the least. I am an old fart now, probably my last brake job. I like my wife to be safe, but we might trade the 16 in, and she can have my 19, and I will buy a 21/22 and she can bury me in it.
5X5 BF. I'm 82 and my last brake job as 10 years back. I evan sold my floor jack so I wouldn't forget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to you all. Front pads and rotors are done. Test drive beautiful. I have done this for myself, family, and friends for 50 years on non Chrysler cars, (not a mechanice but a suit and tie bean counter) but I have never worked so hard taking the caliper bracket bolts out... ever. All four of them never stopped fighting me until the last thread. Yes I had a bar, but even with that I had to take a rest half way with each bolt. I know I am older,(70) but never had that issue with a GM. Most GM I worked on had a torque around 120,(Chrysler 70) and once it broke, you could almost thread them out with your finger. Anyway not complaining. i was always a GM guy. Bought my first new 300 in 13. Loved it. Traded for a 16. My wife drives it now, and I have my black 19 gorgeous garage queen. Thanks you you all.
 

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here's another thing to pay attention to when you find the inner pad wearing more or unevenly. Every time you find those pads going bad and you replace the rotor's, pads and caliper's , you should also replace the rubber flex line to the body hard line. !!! Why you ask !!! because the hoses degrade internally and a lot of times that internal hose collapse is what cause's the caliper to not retract when the foot is off the brakes !
 
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