Sorry Ruppstar,Ruppstar said:Put in an amp before anything else. Trust me.
JDoubleU529 said:Sorry Ruppstar,
I disagree on the amp first. In order to have a great system you need clearity first. If you don't, then your just goin' "getto." So many people start off with the amp and run the stock speakers to it's limit resulting in distortion.
Step 1. Upgrade your stocks to high quality speakers, something that'll handle you max wattage goal.
Step 2. Install a sub with an amp.
Step 3. Install an amp for your speaker upgrade.
This is just a start, but a must if you're going for more wattage.
All I have now is the stock SGII. Spent over $5000 on audio equipment on my previous car. Now, I'm just old and don't have the urge to "bump" any more.
I don't think so. If you push more wattage into the stock speakers, no matter what type of brand, you'll end up pushing it to the limits = blown speakers = shitty sound. The stock speakers will not be blown instantly but soon. Buy the way, most stocks are 8 ohms each and after markets are mostly 4 ohms each = 30w instead of 15w toward the speakers + room to upgrade to an amp in the future. And most stock audio systems are 4 ohm stable.LAIDBACKC said:ACTUALLY!..... the number one reason why stock speakers dont sound as good... is not the speakers (to a point) - its because the factory deck is sending out a whopping 15 watts to them... you can by a set of 600 dollar boston accoustic 6 x 9's and if your still putting 15 watts to them.... guess what.... still sounds shitty.... its the clarity and amplification the speakers receive that makes the difference..... if you want the BIGGEST difference right off the bat... trust me amp first... then go with speakers... ive done so many stereos from small to big... I now have 7 amplifiers going in my C, and have spent realistically over 10 grand on my entire system.... ive done both the amp first, and the speakers first... go with the amp first, if you want a realistical better upgrade...
Now if you already had the factory amp... which is like 300 watts or something.... you could still use more power, but my answer might be different.... but if your workin with the 4 speakers, no amp... just deck power.... an amplifier in your car WILL make the biggest difference... (remember) if you upgrade your speakers first and spend all that money... there still only getting 15 watts, and its not clean, its from the deck...
after the amp install, then i would look at upgrading your high end speakers
keyword = "think"JDoubleU529 said:I don't think so. If you push more wattage into the stock speakers, no matter what type of brand, you'll end up pushing it to the limits = blown speakers = shitty sound. The stock speakers will not be blown instantly but soon. Buy the way, most stocks are 8 ohms each and after markets are mostly 4 ohms each = 30w instead of 15w toward the speakers + room to upgrade to an amp in the future. And most stock audio systems are 4 ohm stable.
I had to post this due to sooo many people driving around with thier audio system playing nothing but bass without the highs and mids to balance it out.
LAIDBACKC said:i would agree speakers blow not from over powering but from distortion... now overpowering CAN CAUSE distortion.... but clipping and/or distortion definitely causes speakers to blow.... so im not saying you should buy a 5000 watt amplifier for your stock speakers.... but something of the same level...
CottyGee said:Alright, I wanna know the answer with SGII! I've got SGII (with the dinky "sub"). I replaced the front 3.5"s with Infinity Kappas, and have given thought to replacing the 6X9s. I may do a sub/amp at some point - nothing too extreme but good sound quality. But for now - something on the cheap - what say ye about the 6x9s??
Should the rears be 3-ways?? How 'bout them front 6x9s??? 2-ways okay for there??
Speak, oh wizened ones!
I don't see how that could happen as, by definition, a crossover network is analog. The sole job of crossover is to create a low pass / high pass filters which ideally divert the analog freq. to the correct driver. There are active and passive designs with multiple "orders" (how they filter) of these designs. A digital version of this would need to be seperated in the DSP. How that would work - I don't know. It would require Bi-amp or multi-amplification for each driver in each "channel" or "speaker".CottyGee said:The cost difference between 2-way and 3-way Infinity Kappa 6x9s in negligible, IIRC.
I thought the "big deal" about the factory amp was that IT did all the cross-over stuff in the digital domain, sending post-cross signals to the different channels of the amp. ??
The Reference and Kappa series tweeters are a bit too harsh for my liking. Make sure you audition them first and like the tweeter. If they seem too harsh, look for something with a silk tweeter.kcrnmale said:How does the Infinity's sound? Is it worth the time and hassle to replace?
I don't have any experience w/ memphis components. I reccomend listening to them first and then making your choice.LAIDBACKC said:hey wess... do you think the high end memphis 8" components will sound good in the doors and in the back.... ive never heard of 8" components until lately.... im gettin pretty anxious... cuz i love the way mid bass sounds.... but i dono maybe too much? or maybe awesome..