[hemiwife]

Hey all -

I was wondering if anyone has had any problems with their front right strut. I purchased my 300C new in August and within about 5 months I had to have my front right strut replaced. (I don't do any off roading with my 300C) :grumpy: My 16000 miles to date, most of the are freeway miles since my typical commute is 350 miles round trip from my home to office. So unfortunately this week on my commute I heard the familiar clunk in the front right side of my car and took my car in to a Chrysler dealer to have it looked at. They kept my C overnight and called me to tell me that yes it was in fact the front right strut that needed to be replaced yet again. But it's on national back order. Has anyone else had this problem with their vehicle? This will be my 3rd strut in less than a year. :yell:

Other than that I love my car - and my rental car.....a Nissan Sentra 1.8S.

I am waiting for the dealership near my house to get the part in and they said it could be a little wait.

 

[mmaloy]

Hey hemiwife!! Had to have mine replaced (front drivers) at only 500 miles on the clock. Mike uch:

 

[300CAWD]

One of my suspension bushings broke so might be having a problem just like yours.

 

[goddardzilla]

To all with the problem:

Which tires were you running while the strut problems occurred - Contis?

Also does your car have any suspension mods - lowering springs, 20 or 22" wheels with lower profile tires?

 

[ink]

my typical commute is 350 miles round trip from my home to office.

And I thought my 80 mile round trip was a long commute!! I havent had this problem yet and I am lowered on the Eibachs with 22's. How can you tell when just 1 strut goes bad?

 

[mmaloy]

And I thought my 80 mile round trip was a long commute!! I havent had this problem yet and I am lowered on the Eibachs with 22's. How can you tell when just 1 strut goes bad?

It will leak oil and if you're lucky it will be in a spot that you regularly park. The oil does not have any odor that you would instantly recognize and is light in color. Mike

 

[hemiwife]

To all with the problem:

Which tires were you running while the strut problems occurred - Contis?

Also does your car have any suspension mods - lowering springs, 20 or 22" wheels with lower profile tires?

I'm running my car strictly stock - and yes the Contis are still on my car :guilty:

 

[hemiwife]

And I thought my 80 mile round trip was a long commute!! I havent had this problem yet and I am lowered on the Eibachs with 22's. How can you tell when just 1 strut goes bad?

Yes 80 miles is a long commute in your hood - I was just down there and it took me 2hrs to go 30 miles. But at least you have a nice ride

Mine didn't show any signs of leakage but make the horrible clunk noises when driving on uneven surfaces. Driving it on cobblestone or brick inlayed parking lots was the worst - you could really hear it.

I have the feeling the hubbie is going to recommend upgrading my suspension/rims/tires - my spleen and any other vital organ to get this resolved. Now I just have to be patient to get my part in.

 

[JustForFun]

One month ago, I was also hearing a LOUD "clunk" noise in the right/rear area of the car when turning or on occasional bumpy roads. Just started out of nowhere.

Took the car in, and they said the rear shocks were bad.

Replaced them a week later (after the parts came in) and they showed them to me. BOTH shocks were losing gas as the seals had failed. You could push them down by hand and here air escaping.

I was really dumbfounded to think that both shocks could go bad and the car had less than 7000 miles on it. And I have NEVER hit any large potholes, curbs or run over anything.

I am running the stock Conti self sealers. Anyway, after they replaced the shocks, the "cluck" noise is gone, and I feel the ride is smoother.

JFF

 

[goddardzilla]

Built to a price

In general, most factory shocks are under-damped. There are financial and sales reasons for this. The sales reasons are that in general sedan car buyers - particularly buyers of large sedans - put comfort ahead of handling (though with increasing awareness this is gradually changing). The financial reasons are: engineering a shock that controls the suspension better, with longevity, means more cost. To optimize handling shocks have to control the suspension better, and that is felt as a stiffer ride. Certain shocks have elements in their design that try to extend the comfort area and retain handling, but generally the choice is either handling or comfort, or a compromise. Black - white - or shades of grey.

The average factory shock is designed with little margin to accommodate extra stresses that work the shocks harder.

Such stresses include

Constant driving over very poor road surfaces
Controlling stiffer than standard springs
Controlling greater unsprung weight that stock - such as heavier than stock wheel/tire combinations
Tires that have stiffer sidewalls that flex less, thus transfer more of the road impact forces to the suspension, and make the shocks work harder. Tires such as low profile, and run-flat tires (Contis).