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My 2007 300 srt8 has about 137K miles on it. While parked in front of my house, the fuel pump failed. It started and then quickly ran out of gas and stalled. Then crank but no start. 1/2 a tank of fuel on the gauge.

Through research on this site, I narrowed it down to a fuel pump and finally towed it to my Dealer. They replaced the fuel pump and I am back on the road again. Total cost $993.

The car still smells from fuel. I think he splashed a little fuel on the floor mats. If it doesn't clear up in day or two, back it goes to check the seal. I would have thought a full price OEM fuel pump assembly would have included a new seal.

Thanks to all on this forum. The knowledge is really useful.:)
 

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I also just had to replace the fuel pump on my 06 300C SRT8 with 170K on it, but I wasn't lucky enough to have it fail in front of the house. When I stole the vehicle about 11 months ago, it was almost totally original with almost all original parts and components, but did need lots of "catch up" work and I knew it. I've been picking away at it since I got it, but the fuel pump failing left me stranded about 25 miles from home following a nearly 450 mile trip.

We were on the interstate, in a construction zone that was reduced down to two lanes. Traffic came to a stop and so did the engine of the SRT. A few construction workers finally pushed us off to the side and we ultimately had it towed home. I decided then to change the remaining things that were still original and could possibly cause us to be stranded. I ended up changing the cam and crank sensors (used Mopars), the starter.....new, not rebuilt (it had to come off anyway to get to the crank sensor), the fuel pump and, since I was under the vehicle, changed the fluid/filter on the transmission and installed a trans. pan with a drain plug.

All these parts ended up costing right at $500.....the starter (about $150), the fuel pump (about $160 with the special tool), and the cam/crank sensors from the stealer (about $130) and the trans.fluid/filter/pan were about $60. Fortunately, I have a drive on hydraulic hoist in the garage and most of the tools needed for these repairs. I can't stand to pay the outrageous labor fees some of the shops and dealers charge. Anyway, I've only have another couple more things that'll need work until I've gone through just about everything. I'll do the driveshaft in the spring, as I am starting to get a slight vibration above 60 mph and much worse at 85-90 mph.....typical sign of CV/U-joints going bad. In the mean time I'll keep my eys on it and "limit" my WOT runs. Then I'll hopefully have an almost like new 300C SRT8 to go along with my other LX and WK.

On yours, a new seal does come with the pump, but it sounds like they didn't follow the instructions in the FSM. It cautions about spilling on the insulation and floor covering. It also says you MUST have less than 5/8 of a tank of fuel or less, otherwise you'll spill IF fuel is not removed to that level. Mine had 7/8 of a tank and I had to pump about 3 gallons of fuel out of it before I could remove the pump. Also, removing and reinstalling the top metal ring that secures the pump (if it was previously installed correctly) is quite a PITA and requires a special tool.....not a screwdriver like one YouTube video shows.

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