Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

101 - 119 of 119 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
marlinspike said:
Even if it does, how would it know the difference between a pulled fuse and a blown fuse?
Your question assumes the fuse was re-inserted, Richard. :wink1: Assuming it had, and that the black box kept a lifetime journal, it most likely could not tell the difference.

Bottom line: Fuse 17 missing from fuse block + a crash = potential for serious deep doo doo, regardless of initial cause of the crash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,066 Posts
WhiteDiamond said:
The black box is continually recording in closed loop for some period of time(seconds, 5 to 7 seconds most likely). It stops recording when the air bags are deployed and you then have a snap shot of what the car was doing for the last several seconds before the deployment. If you pulled the fuse and a code was set, it may show up in the recording(the code, they would most likely find the missing fuse if it was a crash). It does not specifially enter data to record and store it indefinately.

Todd
Okay, thanks for the explanation, as I wasn't really sure how that 'black box' worked...thanks again. :wink1:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,262 Posts
Classy300C said:
Has anyone had the same problems I had with pulling this fuse?(see posts #55 and #60) I'm bringing my car in to be serviced tommorrow. I've created the CEL and the trouble codes, hopefully they will be able to find out why is does that. I was just wondering if anyone has run in to same problem since the last time I asked?

Sounds more and more like there is something wrong with my car because I can't pull this damn fuse and tear it up!!!!!
Well, today I thought, "what the heck, let me see what the fuss is about, and pull the fuse". I drove to a secluded road with two parking lots about 1/2 mile apart. I pulled fuse 17, got back in the car and see the brake, abs, etc lights on. I start to back up and get a message on the EVIC, like "service park assist" and the rear display beeped (nothing behind for 30 feet). I thought that was strange.. I pulled out on the street and let her have it. Same thing classy300c had, chugging, loss of power same thing except I only had drive. The car would not shift into a lower gear. I pulled into the other parking lot, replaced the fuse, see the check engine light is on. I check the codes on the EVIC, same as classy300c. I drive the car for 10 miles, wash her, and see the engine light is now off. I didn't check the codes again on the EVIC because the durn engine light is off, and was afraid it might come on again.
By chance, do any of you have OEM park assist that have tried this? On my next visit to the german dealer, I'll see what they say. Anyone have additional input?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
CUEBALL said:
Well, today I thought, "what the heck, let me see what the fuss is about, and pull the fuse". I drove to a secluded road with two parking lots about 1/2 mile apart. I pulled fuse 17, got back in the car and see the brake, abs, etc lights on. I start to back up and get a message on the EVIC, like "service park assist" and the rear display beeped (nothing behind for 30 feet). I thought that was strange.. I pulled out on the street and let her have it. Same thing classy300c had, chugging, loss of power same thing except I only had drive. The car would not shift into a lower gear. I pulled into the other parking lot, replaced the fuse, see the check engine light is on. I check the codes on the EVIC, same as classy300c. I drive the car for 10 miles, wash her, and see the engine light is now off. I didn't check the codes again on the EVIC because the durn engine light is off, and was afraid it might come on again.
By chance, do any of you have OEM park assist that have tried this? On my next visit to the german dealer, I'll see what they say. Anyone have additional input?
Hey Cue,
I got that same message "service park assist", also the speedo won't work either. When I try to accelerate, it almost seems like the esp kick on and stays on, passed 1/4 pedal position. Everything goes back to normal once you replace the fuse. The CEL will clear after 12 hours, quicker if you drive a lot. In order to clear the codes you have to pull fuse #11 or disconnect neg battery cable for 1/2 hour.(disconecting battery will cause you to lose all your settings-radio, seats,mirrors,etc.) I'm trying to get some answers why our cars do this. I definitely the same thing that is happening because once you mentioned the park assist message it clicked in my head that I had forgotten to mention that. I don't know if they changed the newer 300C, what is your date of manufacture(see driver door jamb)mine is 08/05.
ClassyC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Dunno if this has been mentioned, but per a reliable source, the ESP system on SRT-8's are based on a slightly diffrent computer system and if one holds the ESP button for 7 seconds, it will completely disable the system...keep in mind this is only for SRT-8's though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
I will be trying that GSM mod soon

qictrk said:
I don't know why you guys want to go thru the trouble of pulling fuse 17, putting it back, etc, etc. Just spend the $200 for GSM's override unit and, in addition, you can turn on the fan to cool off the radiator manually. I just installed it today and it is well hidden. I can spin tires at the flick of a finger. Cecil.........
Sitting in my garage waiting for install. Doies it really do what it says?

(BTW what wheels are those-they look like mine--In any event they are NICE)


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Classy300C said:
Hey Cue,
I got that same message "service park assist", also the speedo won't work either. When I try to accelerate, it almost seems like the esp kick on and stays on, passed 1/4 pedal position. Everything goes back to normal once you replace the fuse. - I'm trying to get some answers why our cars do this. I definitely the same thing that is happening because once you mentioned the park assist message it clicked in my head that I had forgotten to mention that. I don't know if they changed the newer 300C, what is your date of manufacture(see driver door jamb)mine is 08/05.
ClassyC
I think you hit the nail on the head here. The vehicle Meister tried this on is a 2005 300C. All the vehicles I have seen in this thread having this problem were listed as a 2006 model. On some of the other threads about the GSM modification, it was identified that the 2006 vehicles built after 7/31/05 have the new version of the ESP/BAS system with three possible ESP switch settings. I believe the fuse #17 trick will only work on the units with the early version of ESP/BAS. The old system had 6 hydraulic lines going into the control block (behind the passenger headlight in the engine compartment), and the new version has four hydraulic lines.

Mr Mopar
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,262 Posts
The question I have is:
Does the 2006 300c has the same ESP/BAS system as the SRT? I have the new 4 line ESP system in my August build "c", but no 3 way switch. Is there any way to install the 3 way option in the "C"....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
CUEBALL said:
The question I have is:
Does the 2006 300c has the same ESP/BAS system as the SRT? I have the new 4 line ESP system in my August build "c", but no 3 way switch. Is there any way to install the 3 way option in the "C"....

Okay, this is some excerpts from the other articles. Please note they discuss the SRT-8C and Police Package vehicles, BUT it also states the MK25E upgrade was made as a running change on the 300 line starting after 7/31/05. So if you have an August build, it is applicable to your vehicle. Also, the switch is not an actual "three position switch" with three distinct detents. You have to hold it depressed as mentioned below. Hope this helps.

""The ABS upgrade was planned some time ago, and has nothing to do directly with "brake/rotor issues". The upgrade is the new Teves MK25e system, replacing the prior MK25. The 25e system first debuted on the 2005 Grand Cherokee and is now being incorporated as a running change on 2006 LX models.

Three mode ESP

The new 25e system for the CSRT-8 incorporates the new "three mode ESP" feature that has been recently discussed in other threads. Service manuals are now being updated and will include the following description:

SRT8 (with MK25E ABS) and Police Package equipped vehicles have what is known as three-mode ESP. When the ESP Off switch is depressed and quickly released, the system turns off ESP like any other model, but if the switch is held down for a period of five seconds or longer before releasing, the ESP system further reduces the amount of torque management provided. The system can be returned to “normal” by briefly pressing and releasing the ESP Off switch.

Note that the description states that in the new "off" mode that torque management is NOT completely turned off, but is "further reduced"."

Mr Mopar
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
Three mode ESP

Somewhere I read that the default disengagement percentage with the three mode switch is around 20%, and that the "further disengagement" one gets by holding the ESP button down for a full 5 seconds is around 80%. Can anyone cite a reference for me.

And my recollection is that the approximate disengagement percentage with the ESP button pushed and the skid icon illuminated with our original two-mode ESP is around 40%. Same request. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
so i have a 2006 C and i have pulled the fuse wanting to hang the rear end out and smoke em off before i bought expensive tires. so i pull it and get going down the road its about 55-65 degrees and humid. well i let her eat and it spins about halfway thru first off the pedal so i am kinda like ok whatever lets launch it. i stall up to 2500 and let it go all the way thru first little bit of second. so i want to hang the rear end out and it rained today so i went to a huge parking lot to see what it could do. barely spun at all....i was expecting a 1-2-3 burnout not 1/2 of 1. and heres the kicker instead of hanging the rear it feels like its only getting one tire fires. i know it spins both during a powerbrake but when i just nail it coming out of a pull out or at an angle no sliding just one tire. also seems like the fans are coming on more. i want more power for less money any ideas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
72RATCAMARO said:
...i was expecting a 1-2-3 burnout not 1/2 of 1. and heres the kicker instead of hanging the rear it feels like its only getting one tire fires. i know it spins both during a powerbrake but when i just nail it coming out of a pull out or at an angle no sliding just one tire. also seems like the fans are coming on more. i want more power for less money any ideas
Your car's not broken or a wuss, RATCAMARO, you just need the GSM mod.

You didn't state your build date, but unless your car has a defect (unlikely) it appears you have a car built on or after 1 August '05. As such it will have the new MK25E ABS (four lines vice six visible at the top of the control module). You may wish to check to see if you have the 3-mode ESP button (hold the ESP button down for 5 seconds, it'll seem like 10, and see if you get an "ESP disabled" notice), but I believe that mod is available only with the SRT8s and Chargers with the equivalent of the police pursuit package. With the 3-mode ESP for sure, and most likely with any car with the MK25E ABS, pulling fuse 17 no longer disables ESP - the GSM mod (new, second-generation model only) is now the only way to fully disable ESP on these newer cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
i am not sure of the build date but it doesnt have the bogging liek the others have with this late bild date. the car sometimes steps out but most of the time i get what feels like a 1 tube scorcth. but i dunno. i do need a GSM with the big boost kit. but being as i am leavign for the mariens day after tommorow. kinda buts a delay on things. but have no fear i will be getting the 9 psi kit jet stage 2 chip and long tubes then no idea where i will go with it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
om sorry if this has been asked and its a noobish question, but all i see is a black box with tubes coming out of it, but I dont know how to get to the fuse, by fuse do you mean the massive cable with like 20 wires in it?:twak:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I read a thread on here the other day that said if you turned the key to start and held it there for about 3 seconds while going at least 15 mph, you could disengage the ESP/BAS. I've done it several times and it works great. Is that essentially the same thing that's going on here? The effect certainly feels the same as you've described.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
236 Posts
I know the dyno mode key trick is that not the same as this??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
236 Posts
Fuse 17

Ok as usual NR nice thread very informative :fing02: now I am not sure this works on all years and models but I use the key trick to put car in dyno mode :scared: and get the same results except the system goes back to normal next key cycle. I wouldn't do it if you are still riding contis since they can't handle all the torque I run BFG KDWS and have yet to find there limit I have hammered it in curves no give have even merged onto tollway at 110+ mph in moderate curve in rain no breaking loose! My car is hardly stock and once these tires warm up they will not just sit and spin on take off about 10-15 ft unless you brake torque it! I would try key trick first that way won't forget to put fuse back in.
I also wanted to comment on the comment about esp system not being as good in handling as with off...I grew up with high powered rear drive 0 computer cars and agree with the fact that things can be controlled well with gas and brake but that is in good conditions with proper parts on the car and experienced driver and yes the old systems are subpar but the system on this car is awesome specially if you are running a tune which backs it off it will react faster then you can and unlike the old systems this one can brake single wheels if needed and accelerate the car as well believe me it works when needed and I wouldn't think of having it totally off during bad conditions not with the torque of these cars! You just have to find the setting you like in each type of road condition like you wouldn't want it totally off on a sealed road or she will spin the wheels off regardless of tire type but if you want to drift or get sideways you do do you see what I am saying? I find if I hold my traction control button for 4-6 seconds at first start up is good for normal romping around she will spin pretty good and do doughnut but not allow getting real sideways at speeds thats how smart it is and abs still works then if I want to get radical or put on a show I do the key trick and put car in dyno mode which disables entire system including abs and it works I have gotten old school sideways!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Ok as usual NR nice thread very informative :fing02: now I am not sure this works on all years and models but I use the key trick to put car in dyno mode :scared: and get the same results except the system goes back to normal next key cycle. I wouldn't do it if you are still riding contis since they can't handle all the torque I run BFG KDWS and have yet to find there limit I have hammered it in curves no give have even merged onto tollway at 110+ mph in moderate curve in rain no breaking loose! My car is hardly stock and once these tires warm up they will not just sit and spin on take off about 10-15 ft unless you brake torque it! I would try key trick first that way won't forget to put fuse back in.
I also wanted to comment on the comment about esp system not being as good in handling as with off...I grew up with high powered rear drive 0 computer cars and agree with the fact that things can be controlled well with gas and brake but that is in good conditions with proper parts on the car and experienced driver and yes the old systems are subpar but the system on this car is awesome specially if you are running a tune which backs it off it will react faster then you can and unlike the old systems this one can brake single wheels if needed and accelerate the car as well believe me it works when needed and I wouldn't think of having it totally off during bad conditions not with the torque of these cars! You just have to find the setting you like in each type of road condition like you wouldn't want it totally off on a sealed road or she will spin the wheels off regardless of tire type but if you want to drift or get sideways you do do you see what I am saying? I find if I hold my traction control button for 4-6 seconds at first start up is good for normal romping around she will spin pretty good and do doughnut but not allow getting real sideways at speeds thats how smart it is and abs still works then if I want to get radical or put on a show I do the key trick and put car in dyno mode which disables entire system including abs and it works I have gotten old school sideways!!

:bigeyes: Slow down my friend....
 
101 - 119 of 119 Posts
Top