Even if it does, how would it know the difference between a pulled fuse and a blown fuse?
Your question assumes the fuse was re-inserted, Richard. :wink1: Assuming it had, and that the black box kept a lifetime journal, it most likely could not tell the difference.marlinspike said:Even if it does, how would it know the difference between a pulled fuse and a blown fuse?
Okay, thanks for the explanation, as I wasn't really sure how that 'black box' worked...thanks again. :wink1:WhiteDiamond said:The black box is continually recording in closed loop for some period of time(seconds, 5 to 7 seconds most likely). It stops recording when the air bags are deployed and you then have a snap shot of what the car was doing for the last several seconds before the deployment. If you pulled the fuse and a code was set, it may show up in the recording(the code, they would most likely find the missing fuse if it was a crash). It does not specifially enter data to record and store it indefinately.
Well, today I thought, "what the heck, let me see what the fuss is about, and pull the fuse". I drove to a secluded road with two parking lots about 1/2 mile apart. I pulled fuse 17, got back in the car and see the brake, abs, etc lights on. I start to back up and get a message on the EVIC, like "service park assist" and the rear display beeped (nothing behind for 30 feet). I thought that was strange.. I pulled out on the street and let her have it. Same thing classy300c had, chugging, loss of power same thing except I only had drive. The car would not shift into a lower gear. I pulled into the other parking lot, replaced the fuse, see the check engine light is on. I check the codes on the EVIC, same as classy300c. I drive the car for 10 miles, wash her, and see the engine light is now off. I didn't check the codes again on the EVIC because the durn engine light is off, and was afraid it might come on again.Classy300C said:Has anyone had the same problems I had with pulling this fuse?(see posts #55 and #60) I'm bringing my car in to be serviced tommorrow. I've created the CEL and the trouble codes, hopefully they will be able to find out why is does that. I was just wondering if anyone has run in to same problem since the last time I asked?
Sounds more and more like there is something wrong with my car because I can't pull this damn fuse and tear it up!!!!!
Hey Cue,CUEBALL said:Well, today I thought, "what the heck, let me see what the fuss is about, and pull the fuse". I drove to a secluded road with two parking lots about 1/2 mile apart. I pulled fuse 17, got back in the car and see the brake, abs, etc lights on. I start to back up and get a message on the EVIC, like "service park assist" and the rear display beeped (nothing behind for 30 feet). I thought that was strange.. I pulled out on the street and let her have it. Same thing classy300c had, chugging, loss of power same thing except I only had drive. The car would not shift into a lower gear. I pulled into the other parking lot, replaced the fuse, see the check engine light is on. I check the codes on the EVIC, same as classy300c. I drive the car for 10 miles, wash her, and see the engine light is now off. I didn't check the codes again on the EVIC because the durn engine light is off, and was afraid it might come on again.
By chance, do any of you have OEM park assist that have tried this? On my next visit to the german dealer, I'll see what they say. Anyone have additional input?
Sitting in my garage waiting for install. Doies it really do what it says?qictrk said:I don't know why you guys want to go thru the trouble of pulling fuse 17, putting it back, etc, etc. Just spend the $200 for GSM's override unit and, in addition, you can turn on the fan to cool off the radiator manually. I just installed it today and it is well hidden. I can spin tires at the flick of a finger. Cecil.........
I think you hit the nail on the head here. The vehicle Meister tried this on is a 2005 300C. All the vehicles I have seen in this thread having this problem were listed as a 2006 model. On some of the other threads about the GSM modification, it was identified that the 2006 vehicles built after 7/31/05 have the new version of the ESP/BAS system with three possible ESP switch settings. I believe the fuse #17 trick will only work on the units with the early version of ESP/BAS. The old system had 6 hydraulic lines going into the control block (behind the passenger headlight in the engine compartment), and the new version has four hydraulic lines.Classy300C said:Hey Cue,
I got that same message "service park assist", also the speedo won't work either. When I try to accelerate, it almost seems like the esp kick on and stays on, passed 1/4 pedal position. Everything goes back to normal once you replace the fuse. - I'm trying to get some answers why our cars do this. I definitely the same thing that is happening because once you mentioned the park assist message it clicked in my head that I had forgotten to mention that. I don't know if they changed the newer 300C, what is your date of manufacture(see driver door jamb)mine is 08/05.
CUEBALL said:The question I have is:
Does the 2006 300c has the same ESP/BAS system as the SRT? I have the new 4 line ESP system in my August build "c", but no 3 way switch. Is there any way to install the 3 way option in the "C"....
Your car's not broken or a wuss, RATCAMARO, you just need the GSM mod.72RATCAMARO said:...i was expecting a 1-2-3 burnout not 1/2 of 1. and heres the kicker instead of hanging the rear it feels like its only getting one tire fires. i know it spins both during a powerbrake but when i just nail it coming out of a pull out or at an angle no sliding just one tire. also seems like the fans are coming on more. i want more power for less money any ideas
Ok as usual NR nice thread very informative :fing02: now I am not sure this works on all years and models but I use the key trick to put car in dyno mode :scared: and get the same results except the system goes back to normal next key cycle. I wouldn't do it if you are still riding contis since they can't handle all the torque I run BFG KDWS and have yet to find there limit I have hammered it in curves no give have even merged onto tollway at 110+ mph in moderate curve in rain no breaking loose! My car is hardly stock and once these tires warm up they will not just sit and spin on take off about 10-15 ft unless you brake torque it! I would try key trick first that way won't forget to put fuse back in.
I also wanted to comment on the comment about esp system not being as good in handling as with off...I grew up with high powered rear drive 0 computer cars and agree with the fact that things can be controlled well with gas and brake but that is in good conditions with proper parts on the car and experienced driver and yes the old systems are subpar but the system on this car is awesome specially if you are running a tune which backs it off it will react faster then you can and unlike the old systems this one can brake single wheels if needed and accelerate the car as well believe me it works when needed and I wouldn't think of having it totally off during bad conditions not with the torque of these cars! You just have to find the setting you like in each type of road condition like you wouldn't want it totally off on a sealed road or she will spin the wheels off regardless of tire type but if you want to drift or get sideways you do do you see what I am saying? I find if I hold my traction control button for 4-6 seconds at first start up is good for normal romping around she will spin pretty good and do doughnut but not allow getting real sideways at speeds thats how smart it is and abs still works then if I want to get radical or put on a show I do the key trick and put car in dyno mode which disables entire system including abs and it works I have gotten old school sideways!!