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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I assume most people are gentle during the break-in period just like the manual and dealer specify. The author of this detailed article says that's the worst thing to do: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
He sure sounds like he knows his stuff, but I'm no engine expert.

What do you guys think?
 

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I dunno...I mean the guy says he's a motorcycle guy, but that his info applies to all engines...meh

Some of the things he says make sense, like not doing anything till you reach operating temperature, the only really contraversial thing is going WOT in the first 20 miles.

I mean, it seems to be accepted practice to operate throughout the entire RPM range during break-in, but not to go 0-100-0 as fast as freakin possible like he says. He seems to think his ideas are more contraversial than they really are.

Oh, and he says to drain the synthetic and use dead dinosaurs till it's broke in cause "synthetic's so slippery it will prematurely terminate break-in". Can't agree with that one.
 

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Humm at no plaqce in my manual does it say baby it. It said no 1st Gear WOT for first 60 miles ( Diff gears are breaking in ) and with in the first 300 miles try to avoid WOT in first gear OTHER than that WOT runs are suggested to help make the rings seal better.

IN general out side of first gear drive it like you stole it, 300 miles goes quick :) My mangum was broken in after 1 weekend of driving.

Avoid long runs at the same speed, use the auto stick to keep the RPM's in differnt areas as you drive.

Most of all HAVE FUN !

-Robert
 

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If they are like GM, performance motors are pre-broken in at the factory. You are really breaking in the transmission and more impotantly the rear end. It clearly states you can go to any rpm with the motor from mile 1, it is the burnout you want to avoid in the forst 60 miles for the rear and tranny.
 

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330toSRT8 said:
I assume most people are gentle during the break-in period just like the manual and dealer specify. The author of this detailed article says that's the worst thing to do: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
He sure sounds like he knows his stuff, but I'm no engine expert.

What do you guys think?
I've often had people call me crazy when I tell them that I try to do my initial oil change at <300 miles. This guy makes me look like a slacker!
While I don't consider myself an expert, I've rebuilt a good many engines in my day, and I agree with everything he says. Unfortunately, unless you are running an engine you just rebuilt, you may never be able to avoid having the engine idle for long periods. Even 'tho the car may not have a lot of miles on it, there's no telling how long it idled (i.e factory, getting it off the transporter, dealer prep, would-be customers sitting in it as they play with the gizmos, etc.).
At any rate, I think that I'll be doing the dino oil, 20 mile change bit with my next new car.
Good article, thanks!
-Steve
 

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manual sez ful throttle

manual for srt8 sez full throttle is good... recommend full throttle! Lots of full throttle. Hell yeah!

More full throttle for everybody!

Steve
06 CSRT8
all stock all original
everything but DVD
waiting for software
 

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I think as long as the engine is up to temperature, you are not going to hurt the engine in the first month. As far as changing the oil right away (<300 mile), I've heard that the engine does have some special additives added to the oil for break in. Don't you remember test driving a new car on the lot? I think hammered is pretty much the SOP. Its real nice to have a car delivered with less than 4 miles on it!
 

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stevesrt8 said:
manual for srt8 sez cowbell is good... recommend cowbell! Lots of cowbell. Hell yeah!

More cowbell for everybody!
Couldn't have said it better myself :silly:
 

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I agree with mr mototune 100%. My car got lots of 2nd and 3rd gear wide open throttle and vacuum decel in the first 200 miles. LOTS OF IT, and it runs very strong today at 8330miles.
 

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...except I don't remember mr. mototune saying anything about avoiding WOT in first gear...
 

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I had a friend in the late 60's, (engines were a bit different then), who believed that you break 'em in like you gonna drive 'em. He beat his Mustang pretty good from day one. That was the best running stock Mustang that I ever saw.
 

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keep the good parts

being an active tuner/enthusiast/mechanic for the past 35 years Has led me to believe that there are a lot of changes going down.

We used to never recommend synth oil for break in. Now cars are shipped with it! This is just one example.

If you are smart and read the instructions provided with your car the engineers who designed your motor suggest full throttle is good. These nice gentlemen are highly knowledgeable and may have some wisdom on this subject.

You will find that the higher gears are better due to the greater load on the engine. Also, hitting the rev limiter is not harmful, per SRT engineer at Track Experience. PCM adapts to driving style and thus there are small gains for "briskly driven" vehicles!


Steve
06 CSRT8
all stock all original
everything but DVD
waiting for software
 

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Break On

In the olden days we had long break in periods (2500 miles or more). Used to be synthetic was a no no for break in. The newer engines have a lot closer tolerances and a lot shorter break in periods (300 miles). My SRT-8 has gotten progressively quicker as I rack up kiles (over 14,000 so far). While I didn't crank ner up to 173 mph on day one, I damn sure didn't baby her either. My last car (Q45) also came from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic. I disected that motor after 182,000 HARD miles, with me pushing it to the red line every day repeatedly. That 4.5 liter was pushing 278 HP (used to seem like a lot) and had her up to 154 mph. When I disected the motor I found a beautiful honey gold color throughout with NO brown or black residue and NO sign of wear on anything! Cylinders, Main Bearings etc all looked spankin' new. That car got new Mobil 1 every 5,000 miles and looked new inside.

Ferraris, Infinitis, BMW's, SRT-8's (and I'm sure lots of others) come from the factory with full synthetic. I think anyone who drains it and puts non-synthetic in for break in is making a mistake. I trust that the engineer boys at these companies probably know a thing or two about these engines.

The motor is tight from day 1. The rear end has a little bit of breaking in to do and there are seals and bearings and such that do need to seat themselves but none of it really benefits from babying the car.

I say drive it as you wish from day 1. If you are someone who never really pushes your car (RPM and High Speed wise) then you should push it during break in to seat the rings etc. The SRT's are meant to be driven hard. The guys at the SRT Track Experience were all really impressed with how durable these cars are, They let groups of strangers flog the hell outta those cars repeatedly, and they report that these drivetrains are bulletproof. With all us "Spirited Drivers" pushing these cars, I have yet to hear anyone report an SRT motor folding under pressure!

Dan
 

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DanRealtor said:
...Ferraris, Infinitis, BMW's, SRT-8's (and I'm sure lots of others) come from the factory with full synthetic. I think anyone who drains it and puts non-synthetic in for break in is making a mistake. I trust that the engineer boys at these companies probably know a thing or two about these engines.

The motor is tight from day 1. The rear end has a little bit of breaking in to do and there are seals and bearings and such that do need to seat themselves but none of it really benefits from babying the car...
I hear what you say, and maybe you're right, but here's my opinion:
The engineers who design the car and engine get together and write a document containing certain specs and their recommendations on how to operate the vehicle, including break-in. This document goes thru the channels: lawyers, finance people, environmental folks, sales and ad people, and who knows who. By the time it becomes the owner's manual, it may look quite different than the original document. They are trying to cover their asses for any contingency..
The engine is filled with Mobil 1 from the factory. There may be several reasons for that besides the superior properties of synthetics.

1.- DCX and Mobil have a deal worked out where DCX must promote the
Mobil 1 name (both in the manual and on the oil fill, etc).

2- With the above being true, it would be a sticky situation for the factory to fill the car with dino oil, and then require a Mobil 1 change at 20 miles. This change may have to be free, since synthetic is what DCX requires, resulting in financial loss to DCX and inconvenience for the customer. In my opinion, this is one reason why engines no longer use a break-in oil.

3- Synthetic oil does provide better fuel mileage, which counts toward DCX's overall EPA rating (average for all cars sold must meet a certain figure). This is one of the reasons why the recommended viscosity of 10W-30 has become 5W-30 for most engines. DCX's EPA number is probably based on the car's fuel efficiency as it leaves the factory. My basis for this is the fact that EPA ratings are almost always less than real life, as documented on this forum. We all know that the worst economy is in the first few tankfuls. It would be difficult for car companies to use an "after break-in" figure. The amount of Gas Guzzler tax is also based on fuel efficiency.

It is true that the tranny and rear end require a more gentle break-in than the engine. If DCX didn't mention the 300 mile break-in, people would be doing hole shots out the dealers' lot, seriously compromising the life of the rear.

My point here is that everything isn't always as it appears to be. The manual tells you what to do in the best interests of DCX. While I wouldn't totally disregard what's in the manual, I think there's room for leeway in some areas. Lets face it, the manual tell us to always obey local speed laws... how many of us follow that rule?

Of course, all this is just my opinion, based on my good common sense that has served me very well the last 50 + years, but I could be dead wrong on all counts!

In any case, this is a good topic for debate.

-Steve
 

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I didn't even read the article, nor did I read a lot of posts in this thread. (I don't usually do that)

But I think it's a safe bet to just DO WHAT THE MANUAL STATES and nothing different. Besides, the manual isn't exactly telling you to "take it easy" or "baby it" like some people say. It state brief periods of WOT which to mean is stressing the components.
 

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Break it in hard. Drive it like a stolen rental car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
5point7 said:
Break it in hard. Drive it like a stolen rental car.
That's my plan!:evil:
It's an automatic so what harm could I possibly do as long as it's warmed up, right!?!
My friend's engine in his Z4 died with less than 10k miles. BMW checked the computer and said he downshifted to 2nd gear at too high of a speed causing it to over-rev to 7700 RPM. They made him pay the 8 grand to repair it. And that was on a leased car!

The good thing about following the manual is they can't come back later and blame me if something goes wrong.
 

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330toSRT8 said:
That's my plan!:evil:
It's an automatic so what harm could I possibly do as long as it's warmed up, right!?!
My friend's engine in his Z4 died with less than 10k miles. BMW checked the computer and said he downshifted to 2nd gear at too high of a speed causing it to over-rev to 7700 RPM. They made him pay the 8 grand to repair it. And that was on a leased car!

The good thing about following the manual is they can't come back later and blame me if something goes wrong.
I agree that you should drive it like a raped ape, but don't do it until you've at least followed the proper break in period. It's quite difficult to do trust me. ;) It's only 500 miles, and I'm guilty of not following the rules......but at least try.
 
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