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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys hoping someone has used any of these and can give me some good decision making info! I have a 300c SRT with the Kicker system and I heard these all will do the trick for me.

I will be using this item one of 2 ways and I am not sure exactly how yet.

The first way will be for just 4 channels - first the front 2 channels will control a 3 way set from either Dynadio, or DLS with a passive xover with 2x 6.5" midbass, 4" midrange and 2 tweets. The rear 1 or 2 channels will run 2 Image Dynamics ID10s in the rear deck.

OR option 2 I will be using 6 channels one for a pair midbass drivers in the doors and a 2 channels for 4" component set in the dash and a 3rd channel for sub.

I really like my nav deck, and I dont really want to replace it. I like the look of the MTX piece but I bet its noisy. One thing I care about only is that I get no noise from engine whine, round noise or anything that will annoy me.

If anyone has some input on these items I would love to hear from you! I think I might go with the JL but you never know with me.

JL Audio: Products

MTX Audio reQ-5 (re-Q<sup>5</sup>) - Bass Restoration & Signal Processor • Auxiliary input • Input Channels: FL, FR, RL, RR, Sub • Output Channels: FL, FR, RL, RR, Sub • Can be installed before or after stock amps - , Factory Stereo (OEM) Integration

Rockford Fosgate® - Signal Processors
 

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I think metalmancpa (JL) and mr.incredible (360) have and both seem
happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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For our cars, you'll need the CL-SSI module in addition. This is
to create a full range signal from the door and dash amp outputs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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That will work without any additional pieces.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can get the AC piece for $325.00 used, and I can get a 360 for $200.00 shipped.

Hmmmm anyone have suggestions for me?
 

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depends on what you feel is easier, not sure how to manipulate the DQ,
but for the 360 you need a bluetooth enabled PDA or laptop with
the proper cabling and software download.

Both of them are capable of summing, but the 360 only if you don't have
all inputs connected, or so it seems.
 

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If you have questions about the 360, I'd suggest PMing Mr. Incredile here
or on the lxforum.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can tell already this is going to get expensive... From what I am gathering I need 2 pieces from JL. One is the summing device, then I need the DSP to eq everything, then I need to get all the speaker leads from the front of the car to the back where the amp is, then need to re run all wiring to the speakers in the stock locations.

OK so...

How impossible is this to do myself as the dealer will want an arm and a leg to do it.

This is how I think it should be wired am I correct?

First there are leads going into the factory amp under the dash now. Those leads will need to go to the rear of the car where I put the JL parts or the audio control.

Then there are leads under the dash on the amp that actually go from the amp to the factory locations. I will need to figure out which are which and runs speaker wire from the amp that I am adding back up front to the leads that are were in the factory amp connect them so they run back to the factory speaker locations. (I assume that is easier than re running the leads to the factory spots?
 

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Which amp are you referring to, the memphis?

The stock amp is in the front of the car on the driver's side. You could
run your wiring there to the 360/cleansweep/DQ/etc and run RCA
cables back to the memphis and speaker leads from the memphis
up to the front.


Now my car still uses the stock speaker cables, meaning I'm running
speaker leads from my amp to the crossover up front, then the tweeter
out goes to the stock dash leads, and the midrange/woofer out goes
to the stock door leads. For the rear leads, those are directly to
the rear crossovers which are attached to the top of the shock towers
adjacent to the 6x9s in the rear.

It's not really as bad to do as you think it is.

Ranking in difficulty starting with easiest:

1. PAC C2A-CHY plug and play, run RCA cables and remote wire to the
memphis and speaker leads back from the memphis

2. AC DQ-8 (not sure of the interface, but taking speaker feeds from
the output of the stock amp and input directly to the DQ-8, RCA
from the DQ-8 to the memphis)

2a. JL similar setup to the DQ 8, but running the stock amp outputs
to the summing device, the summing device to the main DSP unit.

3. 360 the setup is similar to 2/2a but you need an external device to
run the tuning software.

Frankly with what I know about the stock radio, I would start with option
1 and work from there. I don't even have a loc as good as the pac unit.
I have a generic loc, which only gives me 1 stereo output. From that
I run it to an in dash EQ (a four.1), which gives me fader and a few
eq bands, from there I have a Y-connector on the front out that goes
to the sub amp and front input of the mid/high amp. The rear out goes
to the rear input on the mid/high amp. From there to the speakers.

The only real reason to use the other options is if you have Uconnect
or NAV voice. That's because you have to retain the stock amp to
get the audio for those. Since you have to use the stock amp (or
upgrade), that would bring with it some frequence response changes.

I'm sure folks that have used the cleansweep are happy with the results,
and likewise with the 360 and others.

But if I were eliminating the stock amp (or the upgraded one), I would
not go beyond adding the PAC unit as those others would be overkill.

Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.

Disclaimer: these are only my opinions after working on this car to try
to improve the overall sound quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I sold the C2A CHY because I decided I was not going to use the stock amp at all.

Earlier I remember someone saying you cannot use a PAC piece if you dont have the factory amp?

ON the back of the PAC it says if the vehicle does not have a stock amp use part AOEM- CHR2 ? So they do make a piece u can use with no stock amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
AS slow as I am, I think I am getting it.

If I use the pac part my amps will get the full signal, then they will work as the xovers, and the component set I get will do the crossover for the front.

Now I get it I think... If I get the pac part, its much cheaper say $80.00 per some sites. Then, I will have no equalization at all. If I add an EQ later it will prolly cot me about $180-300 and up!

Or I can get the 2 JL parts, or the Audio control part ($300 new at my dealer for the 2 JL parts his cost, and $320 used for the Audio control part) both will then act as a DSP, crossover, eq and LOC.

HMMMMMM
here is the PAC piece.

AOEM kits
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Back to the drawing board... I am being told now from Aud control that u MUST KEEP THE FACTORY AMP IN THE CAR TO USE THIS piece...

WTF?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I called PAC

They are recommending that I use a AOEM CHR2 (like you were saying Coolv300c) and then run that to an EQ of some kind then to the amps.
 

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But remember what I said about the frequency response of the radios in
our car. It is extremely flat. The response issues seem to be added by
the amp. If you are not using the amp, you should not require an EQ
unless you have to have one.

I have a small 5 band in my car, but it was more to have fader capability
than to do eq, plus it has a line driver in it, which is something else
that is not necessary with the stock radio.

you may surprised once you add the AOEM piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Surprised when I get the PAC part?

Good or bad ? LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cool v, can I use the audio cont 3.1 for an eq after the PAC part?
 

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The 3.1 is an interesting piece because it has a sub out. I have
the 4.1 which doesn't have a sub crossover, so I can vouch for
audiocontrol.

That may be all you need.
 
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