[Askham]

Hi,

I've been a happy owner of a 2007 300c CRD touring for a couple of weeks now

However the headlights are always on! The switch has no effect on the headlights whether in A auto, O off, park, or on! The dimmer dial works, but not the foglight button. Also the flash to pass (when I pull the wiper/signal arm towards me) does not activate the high beam. High beam works when I push the arm.

I found another thread here with the same problem, and they said the headlight switch unit was the problem. Well I ordered a new switch from moparamerica.com:

Headlight switch part no. 68019789AE

I couldn't find a diesel version so I tried the gas and hoped it worked out. I fitted the new switch today but exactly the same as the old one. The dimmer works, but not the headlight or foglight switch.

Any ideas for a solution?

 

[jackwalton]

If you have only had it a couple of weeks I would contact the previous owner. He may have modified the wiring for some reason.

Alternatively, the lighting goes through the Integrated Power Module (Front Fuse Box) and they have been known to be affected by moisture.

Could be a difficult one to sort out.

You could unplug the HIDT (Lighting Translator module) these have been known to cause all sorts of strange faults.

Jack

 

[Askham]

No modification, and the strange thing is that I tried the car a week before I bought it and actually tried all the light settings and everything was fine so something happened between then and when I picked it up :-(

Well I have booked professional help and hope they can plug a computer in and get some error codes which reveal what's wrong.

I'll report back

 

[steadyaway]

Do 2007 CRD models have the "A" position for auto headlights? I modded mine, but decided against changing the switch as I was led to believe they are different re fog light switch. It may be worth getting the original swich using your vin number and seeing if it works correctly then.

 

[Askham]

Yes mine has the A for auto. The one I tried as replacement has the foglight integrated in the headlight switch, so you push the headlight dial in stead of a separate button as the original in my car. On MoparAmerica.com webpage it says that it replaces a number of previous part numbers.

The offer from the repair shop is reasonable so I will wait for their suggestions before I try anything myself.

 

[Askham]

I got this suggestion from a professional which I think sounds valid:


If the headlamps are the only thing you're having trouble with then the problem is probably still headlamp switch signal related.

The headlamp switch is a MUX design where it receives a reference voltage and a ground, it puts the voltage through different resistors to vary the voltage based on switch position.

The instrument cluster reads the voltage and determines position, then sends a message to the front control module to turn on the appropriate lights.

If the communication bus goes down then you won't be able to control the lights but the wipers would come on by themselves and all warning lights would come on, which you don't appear to have.

If the instrument cluster doesn't see a plausible signal from the headlamp switch then they'll come on like you are having. You may have an open circuit in either the signal wire or ground to the switch. If no scan tool is available for deeper diagnostics then the next thing I would recommend is checking the ground and reference voltage at the switch and see if one is missing.

 

[DGO]

Have you checked:
1. the front control module fuse in the underbonnet fuse box
2. the faithful battery disconnect system reset

 

[Askham]

Have you checked:
1. the front control module fuse in the underbonnet fuse box
2. the faithful battery disconnect system reset

1. I checked the fuses, but will have a look again tomorrow at that specific one.

2. Do you mean just disconnecting the battery? Then yes I disconnected the battery when I changed the headlight switch.

Thanks

 

[Pappajohn]

1. I checked the fuses, but will have a look again tomorrow at that specific one.

2. Do you mean just disconnecting the battery? Then yes I disconnected the battery when I changed the headlight switch.

Thanks

check fuses with a meter, dont rely on a visual check alone.

Fuses dont always go with a flash, they can slow-blow causing just a minute gap at one end of the link and difficult to see.

 

[Askham]

I checked fuse no.6 for the front control module and it was ok. I don't have a meter but changed with another 15A and didn't help :-(

 

[jackwalton]

See post #2.
Have you unplugged the HIDT module ?
A 2 minute job to eliminate.

Its not forced to be it, but its possible.
Other than that I would check the new switch with a meter.

Jack

 

[Askham]

Where do I find the HIDT module, Jack? Is it in the fuse box?

I really appreciate that you guys are trying to help me

I just noticed now that there are a number of fuses for the Front Control Module (FCM)! I just double checked no.6 but I will check the others again. I see numbers 6, 9, 25, 27 all are for the FCM. And also in the rear fuse box numbers 29 and 44 mention the FCM?!

 

[jackwalton]

Where do I find the HIDT module, Jack? Is it in the fuse box?

I really appreciate that you guys are trying to help me

I just noticed now that there are a number of fuses for the Front Control Module (FCM)! I just double checked no.6 but I will check the others again. I see numbers 6, 9, 25, 27 all are for the FCM. And also in the rear fuse box numbers 29 and 44 mention the FCM?!

HIDT module is a small plasic box mounted under the bonnet just behind the drivers side headlight location.
All it does ir translate any error codes into a language the Engine Control module can understand. You can safely unplug the single connection and try lights with this unplugged.
At a guess the module is about 3inches by 3inches by 1 1/2inches

Other than that the FCM (front fuse box) hinges up and you could check for corrossion or possible shorts on the electrical plugs undeneath or signs of water getting in.

Jack

 

[Sonsarus Amaryllus]

HIDT module is a small plasic box mounted under the bonnet just behind the drivers side headlight location.

Jack, Askham is in Denmark so I would assume is driving a left hooker. I would imagine that they wouldn't mess too much with the wiring loom so the module could be on the right side of the engine bay as you sit in the car.

 

[Askham]

HIDT module is a small plasic box mounted under the bonnet just behind the drivers side headlight location.

Jack, Askham is in Denmark so I would assume is driving a left hooker. I would imagine that they wouldn't mess too much with the wiring loom so the module could be on the right side of the engine bay as you sit in the car.

Correct Sonsarus I found the HIDT module on the right side behind the headlight but no joy :-( I also checked all the fuses mentioned above with a meter and all were ok. I checked underneath the fuse box and no obvious damage or water.

So next step is the repair shop, and hope their computer can tell something.

 

[UK CHRYSLER 300C]

It'll be the switch.........

 

[jackwalton]

It'll be the switch.........

He has fitted a new switch, but i still suggested it is still poss. To be a faulty switch and i suggested the switch is rechecked.

jack

 

[jackwalton]

Correct Sonsarus I found the HIDT module on the right side behind the headlight but no joy :-( I also checked all the fuses mentioned above with a meter and all were ok. I checked underneath the fuse box and no obvious damage or water.

So next step is the repair shop, and hope their computer can tell something.

I've just realised. On your model I think there is a separate relay in the Front Fuse Box (FCM), for the headlights.

The relay contacts could be welded together, But the first thing to try is unplugging the relay and confirm the lights go out.

Drawing attached if this is same as yours.

EDIT
If drawing is the same as your just try swapping relays with any of the cooling fan relays to prove. Watch out though because if the relay is faulty the cooling fan could possibly run when swapped over.

 

[Askham]

I tried the relay now but still not working :-( The lights went out when I removed the relay but it didn't change anything when I swapped with another of same type.

So I agree with you guys that it probably is the switch or wiring to the switch. Also I'm not 100% sure that the replacement switch I tried is the correct one. I ordered it from MoparAmerica and for a 5.7L version. I haven't been able to verify that it fits the 3.0 CRD!

Thursday morning it's going to the mechanic. Any last advice still welcome - and thanks again guys

 

[[email protected]]

If you have this part number it fits all 04602349AD. There are three other switches available

ITEM PART
NUMBER QTY LINE SERIES BODY ENGINE TRANS TRIM DESCRIPTION
Switches - Instrument Panel
1 SWITCH, Headlamp
04602884AA 1 C, F, Z 48, 49 [LMG,LPG]
04602348AD 1 C, F, Z 48, 49 [LMG]
04602349AD 1 C, F, Z 48, 49 [LNJ,LPG,LMG]
04602347AD 1 C, F, Z 48, 49
1 C, F, Z 48, 49 [LNJ,LMG]

CHRYSLER 300 (STEYR) (LE)
SERIES LINE BODY ENGINE TRANSMISSION
X = SPECIAL
S = SPORT
C = CHRYSLER
Z = CHRYSLER (RHD)
F = CHRYSLER (AWD)
48 = 4 Door Sedan
49 = 4 Door Hatchback
EER = 2.7L V6 DOHC 24
Valve MPI Engine
EGG = 3.5L High Output V6
24V MPI Engine
ESF = 6.1L SRT HEMI SMPI
V8 Engine
EXL = 3.0L V6 Turbo Diesel
Engine
EZB = 5.7L Hemi Multi
Displacement Engine
DGV = 4-Spd. Automatic VLP 42RLE
Trans
DGJ = 5-Speed Auto W5A580
Transmission
DGU = 5-Spd Auto

I don't think anyone has had problems changing the old type switch to the new type before.