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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

My situation started last night. I pulled out of my garage and my car stalled! It was only running for about 10 seconds. I simply started it back up and drove off about 20 miles with no problems.

Well, this morning I went out to my car to goto work and tried to start my car. I heard a click-click-click but the engine will not start. Granted I live just north of Detroit (5 miles from Chrysler HQ ironically) and the temp was 13F this morning but cold weather has never prevented my car from starting.

Here are a couple key notes which might help to diagnose the problem:
  • I have been getting the 'RKE Battery Low' warning for a few weeks now but I used my keyfob to unlock my car this morning.
  • The issue is not a low battery/alternator issue as the radio works just fine along with all the lights in the car including my headlights.
  • Car stalled once the night before.
  • The fuel level is at 50% or half tank.
  • When I try to start it, the instrument panel zeros out for a second (Mileage reads 0mi, Temp reads 0F).
  • EVIC displays no errors.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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I would clean the battery terminals and connectors if you are confident that the battery is not weak. How old is your battery.
 

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the "click click click" noise is the classic sound / symptom of the starter not having sufficient voltage. In other words, your battery is in fact low.

The fact that the radio and headlights work fine is not surprising; they require far less voltage than the starter does. Check your voltage with a voltmeter at the charging post under the hood or at the battery itself. Full charge is around 12.7 ; I'll bet you are under 12 volts. If you don't have a meter you can check voltage in your EVIC diagnostic screens.

Now WHY it's dead is another story. Most likely one of the many computer modules didn't shut down for one reason or another when you shut the car off; could just be a fluke. I would get the battery load tested after you recharge it, and have the charging system checked out. My car did this a couple times and the dealer could find NOTHING wrong to draw the battery down. But the battery died while in their shop, so they replaced it under warranty (even though it tested "good") and I've had no problem since.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for your helpful suggestions. I will check the voltage as I am unsure how old the battery actually is (I bought the car in Dec '06 and never replaced it myself).

Although I am still unsure why my car stalled last night.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All fixed.

The voltage was reading 10.6V in the EVIC menu. I simply jumped my 300C and the voltage returned to 14.2V.

Now to figure out what was drawing current while my car was off.
 

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Do you know how to do an "ignition off draw" test. Do you have a volt/milliamp meter. It could just be that your battery has reached the end of its life.
 

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All fixed.

The voltage was reading 10.6V in the EVIC menu. I simply jumped my 300C and the voltage returned to 14.2V.

Now to figure out what was drawing current while my car was off.
I don't think its all fixed. I believe you have a bad cell within your battery.
with the car off, turn on the headlights and see if the voltage drops rapidly on the battery. If it does, new battery time.
 

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Hey everyone,

[*]I have been getting the 'RKE Battery Low' warning for a few weeks now but I used my keyfob to unlock my car this morning.
Thanks.
The clip within your keyfob that holds the battery may have popped its solder joints. It has happened to both of my keyfobs. In my case the alarm would sound when I unlocked the door with the key until I started the engine. Embarrassing!

You can open the keyfob (as you would if you were to replace the battery) and repair it yourself if you have a soldering gun/iron, some solder, and a modicum of soldering ability.

I have written a Word document "how-to" article (with pictures) I can e-mail to anyone who PM's me with their e-mail address.
 
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