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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I am having some issues with my C, its an 05 BB C with 134 000 kms. I bought it used with 97000km, I Have had the brake, coolant, diff, tranny and steering fluid changed at around 115000km with all synthetic fluids. Which I am not sure was a good idea but thats what the guy at firestone said I should do. I also had the fuel system "cleaned" at around the same time, I vaguely remember the process but the guys poured something in the engine, let it idle for a while, then attached some contraption between the steering wheel and gas pedal and slowly raised the RPM until a thick cloud of white smoke came out the exhause. I have not replaced the spark plugs or fuel injectors. I have not really had much of a tune up.

Heres whats happening, my transmission is not shifting as smooth as it used to, where it would rise and then shift without you really noticing unless you looked, I hope u guys know what I mean, it used to be just smooth sailing driving, Now it shifts a little higher Id say and i get this slight vibration after the shift. Especially from 1st to 2nd, but only sometimes. The fuel economy sucks. Ive tried the fuel injector cleaner stuff that goes in the tank. but it did nothing. Its just not smooth. I am wondering what you guys think this could be. Ive also got the check engine light on with the code. Exhaust - a circuit high, something like that. I went to the dealer and they said I had to change some part that relates to the exhaust that is in the engine bay and that it would cost me 800 bucks, If someone knows this part or code I could probably pin point it out, but as of right now I am just frustrated and really dont know why the ride is so rough and not smooth. I am sorry that this is so general and vague. I do not know too much about my car. Anything helps guys

Thanks
 

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It could be as simple as the computers need to be set back to factory settings. If that is not it, the fact that you took your car to the facility that you refered to may? be the problem as they potentially have no clue as to what they are talking about.
 

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Usually when your car starts producing codes you are at the mercy of the dealer to find the fix. What is the trouble code number with the exhaust error? Could it be P0473-EXHAUST PRESSURE SENSOR 1 HIGH ?

² Set Condition:
The Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor Signal circuit voltage is below 0.25 volt for 2.0 seconds.
Possible Causes
INTERMITTENT DTC
(F858) EXHAUST GAS PRESSURE SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(K35) EXHAUST GAS PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(K934) EXHAUST GAS PRESSURE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(K35) EXHAUST GAS PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
(K934) EXHAUST GAS PRESSURE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
EXHAUST GAS PRESSURE SENSOR
ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM

You may just have a faulty sensor.

On the shift vibration, there is a TSB for water in the transmission that causes vibrations. But the symptoms are supposedly noticed more in the 3-4 shift. So maybe this is of no help.
http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/TSB/TSB_2100604a.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input guys. The code reads something along exhaust - a circuit high, thats all I can remember. The bigger issue right now is the rough ride, I do not think its the transmission, I feel its more in the fuel system as I have had the car stall a few times at low speeds, the rpms just drop and the car turns off, I was wondering if this could be a sign of the spark plugs needing to be replaced as I said I have never changed them. What do you think?
 

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Per the US owners manual, plug changes are supposed to be done every 30,000 miles, or 50,000 kilometers. If you bought the car around 97k km, that was about the time a plug change was due. If you don't know the service record of the car than you should probably have the plugs changed, replace the PCV valve, change tranny fluid, oil, at a minimum.
Below is the recommended maintenance at 100,000Km.

Here is a link that you can download the owners manual with the maintenance schedules.
My Chrysler: Chrysler Owners Service Manuals - Chrysler Cars, Minivans, SUVs, Convertibles, Crossovers

60,000 recommended service
Change engine oil and engine oil filter, if not replaced at 3 months.
Replace the air cleaner filter.
Replace the spark plugs. 5.7L Engine.
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors.
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve.
Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter.
Replace the air conditioning filter.
Flush and replace engine coolant at 60 months if not done at 102,000 miles.
Rotate the tires.
 

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First thing to do is change the spark plugs; I don't know what 134,000km is, but the plugs should have been changed at 30,000 miles so I'm sure you are WAY overdue. That could be why it is not "smooth" and it needs to be done anyway.

You are pretty vague on what the dealer told you the "check engine" light code is, but you mentioned something about the exhaust system. Are they saying your Oxygen Sensors are bad? If that's the case, can they pinpoint which one(s)? They are not that hard to change yourself, they simply screw into the exhaust system and there's a wiring harness that plugs into them. Make sure to spray some penetrating oil around the threads and let it soak in for a while before you attempt to remove them.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay the spark plugs were changed, the originals looked okay, no major gap or anything but I changed them anyway. The only improvement is gas mileage. The shift thing is still happening and today I even had the shifts hold themselves for quite a long time. I gave some gas and let off and it just held at 2000 rpm for some reason. I had to play with the auto stick and gas pedal again to get it to shift. I had this similar problem before I changed all the fluids. Do you think Id have to change the tranny fluid after only 20000km? I think thats like 8000 miles
The problem was much worse before, the shifts would just hold for a long time and never upshift and even when i let off the gas, the RPM would just slowly decrease holding that gear. I just went through a ROUGH winter here in toronto. I also have the winter tires still on, Do you guys think this could be a reason the ride is rough considering the tread is apparently softer on my Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25 Winter tires? I am out of ideas now:dead1: . Would the fuel injectors need to be cleaned or replaced? I plan on going for a Pedders street II suspension swap in a couple months along with the Viper 22 Replicas
. I am afraid more about these problems now but I am too nervous to take it to a dealer. I always leave upset and ripped off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As for the check engine light, this is the code:

P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit High

Any takers?
 

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Hi guys,

I am having some issues with my C, its an 05 BB C with 134 000 kms. I bought it used with 97000km, I Have had the brake, coolant, diff, tranny and steering fluid changed at around 115000km with all synthetic fluids. Which I am not sure was a good idea but thats what the guy at firestone said I should do. I also had the fuel system "cleaned" at around the same time, I vaguely remember the process but the guys poured something in the engine, let it idle for a while, then attached some contraption between the steering wheel and gas pedal and slowly raised the RPM until a thick cloud of white smoke came out the exhause. I have not replaced the spark plugs or fuel injectors. I have not really had much of a tune up.

Heres whats happening, my transmission is not shifting as smooth as it used to, where it would rise and then shift without you really noticing unless you looked, I hope u guys know what I mean, it used to be just smooth sailing driving, Now it shifts a little higher Id say and i get this slight vibration after the shift. Especially from 1st to 2nd, but only sometimes. The fuel economy sucks. Ive tried the fuel injector cleaner stuff that goes in the tank. but it did nothing. Its just not smooth. I am wondering what you guys think this could be. Ive also got the check engine light on with the code. Exhaust - a circuit high, something like that. I went to the dealer and they said I had to change some part that relates to the exhaust that is in the engine bay and that it would cost me 800 bucks, If someone knows this part or code I could probably pin point it out, but as of right now I am just frustrated and really dont know why the ride is so rough and not smooth. I am sorry that this is so general and vague. I do not know too much about my car. Anything helps guys

Thanks
First of all, you got the tranny fluid changed at a non-chrysler dealer which means they probably didn't use ATF+4 and that is why you are seeing your tranny not shifting right.

Take it to a dealer and get the fluid swapped out ASAP to get the non ATF+4 out of the system. Also, your place probably didn't have the proper dipstick for testing the tranny fluid amount so they probably didn't put the right amount in.

the rough ride is from the tires being over-inflated seeing the warmer the outside temp gets, the higher the pressure gets in the tires. I just checked mine and they were overinflated 5psi.
 

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Take a look at this info:
Troubleshooting driveability problems can be a challenge on late-model computer-controlled vehicles because
there are so many possible causes to consider. Is it a conventional fuel, ignition or compression problem? A bad
sensor? A computer glitch? A low-voltage problem?
The first thing to look for is a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). If a code is found, it narrows down the list of
possibilities to a specific circuit or component. But if no codes are found, then it’s back to the basics: ignition
checks, fuel pressure and delivery checks, and checking compression and engine vacuum.
On OBD II-equipped vehicles, adaptive strategies can sometimes prevent a fault code from being set as long as
an outright failure of a sensor or other component has not occurred — provided that the system can
compensate for any changes that have occurred to keep tailpipe emissions from exceeding 1.5 times the legal
limit. In other words, you might have a vehicle with a bad coolant sensor that reads low. Normally, this would
prevent the computer from going into closed loop. But in many instances, the OBD II system will still go into
closed loop and no code will be set. To diagnose this kind of problem, you may have to use a scantool with realtime
sensor readings, such as AutoTap, to look at individual sensor inputs to see if they make sense.
One item that’s often overlooked in the diagnostic process that can cause a variety of driveability problems is a
low battery or charging voltage. Electronics as well as electric fuel pumps must have the correct dosage of volts
to function properly, so if the battery or charging system voltage is low it can cause a variety of driveability ills
such as hard starting, hesitation, ignition misfire, etc. If voltage isn’t up to specs, the fuel pump may not deliver
enough pressure or volume to meet the demands of the engine. Likewise, low voltage can interfere with the
operation of the injectors, sensors, actuators and ignition system.​
OXYGEN SENSOR​
Another component that often causes driveability problems is the oxygen (O2) sensor. This sensor is the master
switch in the fuel control feedback loop. The O2 sensor monitors the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust
and produces a voltage signal that varies from about 0.1 volts (lean) to 0.9 volts (rich). The computer uses the
O2 sensor’s signal to constantly fine-tune and flip-flop the fuel mixture so that the catalytic converter can do its
job and clean the exhaust. On OBD II-equipped vehicles, a second O2 sensor after the catalytic converter is
used to monitor converter efficiency.
If an O2 sensor circuit opens, shorts or goes out of range, it usually sets a fault code and illuminates the Service
Engine Lamp. But many an O2 sensor that is badly degraded may continue to function well enough not to set a
fault code — but not well enough to prevent an increase in emissions and fuel consumption. The absence of a
fault code or warning lamp, therefore, doesn’t mean the O2 sensor is doing its job.
The performance of the O2 sensor tends to diminish with age as contaminants accumulate on the sensor tip and
gradually reduce its ability to produce voltage. This kind of deterioration can be caused by a variety of
substances that find their way into the exhaust such as lead, silicone, sulfur, oil ash and even some fuel
additives. The sensor can also be damaged by environmental factors such as water, splash from road salt, oil
and dirt.
As the sensor ages and becomes sluggish, it may not allow the computer to flip-flop the fuel mixture fast enough
to keep emissions within acceptable limits. If the sensor dies altogether, it will cause the feedback control
system to go back into open loop with a fixed, rich fuel mixture. Fuel consumption and emissions go up, and the
converter may suffer damage if it overheats.


Hope this is helpful,
Jeff​
 

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Hi guys,

I am having some issues with my C, its an 05 BB C with 134 000 kms. I bought it used with 97000km, I Have had the brake, coolant, diff, tranny and steering fluid changed at around 115000km with all synthetic fluids. Which I am not sure was a good idea but thats what the guy at firestone said I should do. I also had the fuel system "cleaned" at around the same time, I vaguely remember the process but the guys poured something in the engine, let it idle for a while, then attached some contraption between the steering wheel and gas pedal and slowly raised the RPM until a thick cloud of white smoke came out the exhause. I have not replaced the spark plugs or fuel injectors. I have not really had much of a tune up.

Heres whats happening, my transmission is not shifting as smooth as it used to, where it would rise and then shift without you really noticing unless you looked, I hope u guys know what I mean, it used to be just smooth sailing driving, Now it shifts a little higher Id say and i get this slight vibration after the shift. Especially from 1st to 2nd, but only sometimes. The fuel economy sucks. Ive tried the fuel injector cleaner stuff that goes in the tank. but it did nothing. Its just not smooth. I am wondering what you guys think this could be. Ive also got the check engine light on with the code. Exhaust - a circuit high, something like that. I went to the dealer and they said I had to change some part that relates to the exhaust that is in the engine bay and that it would cost me 800 bucks, If someone knows this part or code I could probably pin point it out, but as of right now I am just frustrated and really dont know why the ride is so rough and not smooth. I am sorry that this is so general and vague. I do not know too much about my car. Anything helps guys

Thanks
This problem that you have is an EGR Valve. They probably did a seafoam on your engine, which fried the EGR Valve. Part costs 90$- 100$ and takes 15 minutes to replace. Located in the engine bay, at the front, on the passenger side. If I remember right its 3 bolts, 2 gaskets. Peice of cake.
 

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goodjob bumping a 2 yr old thread :)

btw, i dont think its the EGR Valve thats causing the rough shifting...
 

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The code he was throwing was the EGR valve. I know, I had the same problem, replaced it..problem solved;) I did not say anything about his shifting issue. Also this is a common problem, so whether or not I bumped a 2 year old thread. It might help someone researching the code.
 

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The code he was throwing was the EGR valve. I know, I had the same problem, replaced it..problem solved;) I did not say anything about his shifting issue. Also this is a common problem, so whether or not I bumped a 2 year old thread. It might help someone researching the code.

then be more specific in your post cause u stated "THIS PROBLEM" ....the problem is the shifting, thats the problem...


This problem that you have is an EGR Valve. They probably did a seafoam on your engine, which fried the EGR Valve. Part costs 90$- 100$ and takes 15 minutes to replace. Located in the engine bay, at the front, on the passenger side. If I remember right its 3 bolts, 2 gaskets. Peice of cake.
 

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There could be more than one problem. His EGR valve might need replacing, but I can't stress how much people need to get their transmission fluid flush at the dealer. Not only do they need to use the right fluid and dipstick, they have to heat the fluid up to a certain temperature before putting it in, so it expands to fill the area.

I've heard of more than one case where a transmission fluid flush wasn't done right on our cars, and the torque converter blew and took out a whole bunch of other stuff (engine, transmission, exhaust). And if your car's not under warranty, you're outa luck :/
 

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Do we not have a mercedes Transmission!? I was planning on having the flush done at mercedes. My Local Dealer is full of unskilled idiots. I had a part of my car painted, and they messed it up. So Its going back for the 3rd time to be repaired. The parts guys dont know **** about our cars, and the service guys cant tell the differance between a 3.5 and a HEMI lol. I have to educate them everytime I'm there.

For the record, anyone who has minor vibration in the gas pedal when driving, and has done everything they can think of. I solved the problem today, Wheel bearings. They wont move when on the car, but if you take them off, and wiggle them..if theres play, they are toast. 38mm Deep socket, and takes 10 minutes to check, and replace if needed. At least for the fronts.

Also for the unknown suspension clunk. Strut mounts, and the strut bushing is something not many people check. Replaced them. Clunks gone. I did he sway bar bushings, Tension struts, Endlinks before coming to this conclusion.
 

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Okay the spark plugs were changed, the originals looked okay, no major gap or anything but I changed them anyway. The only improvement is gas mileage. The shift thing is still happening and today I even had the shifts hold themselves for quite a long time. I gave some gas and let off and it just held at 2000 rpm for some reason. I had to play with the auto stick and gas pedal again to get it to shift. I had this similar problem before I changed all the fluids. Do you think Id have to change the tranny fluid after only 20000km? I think thats like 8000 miles
The problem was much worse before, the shifts would just hold for a long time and never upshift and even when i let off the gas, the RPM would just slowly decrease holding that gear. I just went through a ROUGH winter here in toronto. I also have the winter tires still on, Do you guys think this could be a reason the ride is rough considering the tread is apparently softer on my Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25 Winter tires? I am out of ideas now:dead1: . Would the fuel injectors need to be cleaned or replaced? I plan on going for a Pedders street II suspension swap in a couple months along with the Viper 22 Replicas
. I am afraid more about these problems now but I am too nervous to take it to a dealer. I always leave upset and ripped off.
Tell the dealer to check your transmission fluid levels. Never assume they put the right amount in there, several members over the years have had techs not put the right amount of fluid in there only to have their tranny act up.
 
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