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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!

I am having some problems with my headlights recently...

And I have discovered an interesting fact that if I disconnect the HID auto-leveling module it does nothing to the leveling regulation system. So, when I start my engine my headlights still move their bulbs up and down with no problem if I bounce my front end. In other words, unplugging this module does absolutely nothing to my car's lights!

Could you please explain me the need of that module in such case? What does it to the HIDs?
The part number on the sticker is 04806086AE and HID Translator Module is written on it.

 

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There is more than one sensor on the car so it will try and make sense of what to do with the lights from the signals that are available at a guess. It is only a guess though. Sensor at rear also.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #3
jackwalton, thanks for your comments!
That is not the sensor. There are two sensors which are located in the wheel wells: one in the front right and another in the left rear.

I always thought that this module is a control unit, or something like that. But once again the bulbs move even if I disconnect it.
 

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Yes thanks you are correct.

Just had a look at drawings and from what I can work out:
The headlamps do still drive up and down and go to fixed calibrated/set/fixed position even when the module is unplugged because the module does not supply the "drive" to the motor, it only supplies a "trim adjustment".
The module receives a signal from the sensors and would normally give this "trim" adjustment to the lights as the car is loaded/de-loaded. It is this "trim" function that will no longer work so if you load the boot up the lights will go up in the air and stay there. i.e. the leveling system does not work but removing the module hasn't affected the fixed/set position.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Jack many thanks for your help! Really! But I just can't understand the last sentece (sorry for my English).

It is this "trim" function that will no longer work so if you load the boot up the lights will go up in the air and stay there. i.e. the leveling system does not work but removing the module hasn't affected the fixed/set position.
Could you explain me in some other words, please!?

Just want to remind once again what I've done:

1) I disconnected this module;
2) Started the engine and turned the lights on (they moved up and down during start up as always);
3) I have disconnected the sensor arm in the front right wheel well to be able to move it full the way up and down;
4) I have moved that sensor's arm (with the engine running) full the way up and down and the bulbs moved very high and very low accordingly. Just as they always do.

And of course if I bounce both front and rear end (emulating loaded trunk) they also moved with the unplugged module.
 

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Your English is very good.

I have just read the manual and I was wrong yet again.

The system does still level OK without the module plugged in exactly as you said.
The leveling system itself (Not the HID translator module) is an old Chrysler system and if the leveling system (Motors and Sensors) gets a fault it produces old Chrysler error codes that cannot be sent over the CANbus.

All the module does is: If a fault on the leveling system occurs it sends a code to the module which then translates the code into a signal and error code that can be read on the CANbus. Its just an aid for fault finding and the system will work with it unplugged exactly as you said. If it develops a fault though no error codes will be available to be read on the OBD socket.


Jack
 

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Dimon, if you still got the flickering issue, its not this module. It would be either the bulb or the ballast itself that commonly cause the flickering issue :yup:

I seen your post over at LX
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thank you so much brother! That makes sense! I could never even think of that...

OK and I have another question:

I have noticed that when I turn my headlights on when the engine is not running the bulbs go up and then down as always and synchronously. But, if I first start my engine and then turn the lights on then my bulbs begin to rise very slow (like step by step) to the upper position from the bottom (not from up to down) and asynchronously. So, the passenger's bulb continues rising even when the driver's has already stopped in the upper position.
They do that instead of the usual up/down move! Is it normal, or am I having problems with the system?

badgx, glad to hear you! Thanks, I am just trying to figure out some interesting things to me I have discovered when I was trying to eliminate my flash problem...

P.S. Startech rules!
 
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Thank you so much brother! That makes sense! I could never even think of that...

OK and I have another question:

I have noticed that when I turn my headlights on when the engine is not running the bulbs go up and then down as always and synchronously. But, if I first start my engine and then turn the lights on then my bulbs begin to rise very slow (like step by step) to the upper position from the bottom (not from up to down) and asynchronously. So, the passenger's bulb continues rising even when the driver's has already stopped in the upper position.
They do that instead of the usual up/down move! Is it normal, or am I having problems with the system?

badgx, glad to hear you! Thanks, I am just trying to figure out some interesting things to me I have discovered when I was trying to eliminate my flash problem...

P.S. Startech rules!
Wonder if the battery voltage is slow to get up to normal when the engine is running and one mechinism is a bit stiff. I would put the EVIC into the section where you can display the battery voltage. Should be stable at about 14.7 volts anytime engine is running.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Voltage is OK bro! ~14... Please note that this happens after any time the motor is running. Even if I've drove for an hour it will turn on that way. As for the HID motor, I also thought of that first, but why does then it goes so perfect when the engine is not started?
And besides, the battery is used only when the engine is off, the generator runs with the engine, instead...
Plus, i want to correct myself that this strange move occurs when either ignition is on, or the engine is running. So, I suppose its neither generator, nor the battery. The normal move of bulbs is only when everything is off and I just switch the headlights on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK Jack, I have just monitored my voltage and I doesn't look so good to me!
It cycles between 13.8-13.7 all the time. If I step on the gas a little it first rises to 14.0 but then makes a drop to 13.5!
If I turn on all headlights and fog lights it cycles even between 13.7-13.6!
I have done two videos for reference and will post them a bit later today...
 

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OK Jack, first video is with the headlights and fog lights on:

IMG_0548_zps5548b8a5.mp4 Video by Levitsky | Photobucket

Second is just running engine with the light off:

IMG_0549_zps8390ea2f.mp4 Video by Levitsky | Photobucket
Charging voltage is definitely too low, and also unsteady.

I suspect you have an alternator which is about to fail. (Either that or a faulty battery, but I would suspect the alternator)

First of all I would check the alternator to make sure diesel isn't being sprayed onto it from a leaking fuel line.
Also check lubricating oil hasn't been dripped onto the top of it when topping up the engine oil. (Have you got a splash shield fitted over the alternator top ?)
You could check the battery connections, including the connection onto the chassis at the battery. You could also check the connection of the thick wire at the alternator, but I suspect your alternator will fail soon.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks Jack! I am always washing my engine with the special cleaners like "TurtleWax engine cleaner" every spring as I live near coast and we have solty air and I don't want my hoses to be corroded.
Perhaps, some cleaner, or water could get inside the alternator. But I always take away all the water out with the compressed air after the cleaning.
Besides, I didn't see any splash guard above it. I have that only under it (engine splash guard). Anyway, I always saw it clean of both diesel, or oil.
Are there original splash guards for the alternator on these cars sold separately?
 

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Thanks Jack! I am always washing my engine with the special cleaners like "TurtleWax engine cleaner" every spring as I live near coast and we have solty air and I don't want my hoses to be corroded.
Perhaps, some cleaner, or water could get inside the alternator. But I always take away all the water out with the compressed air after the cleaning.
Besides, I didn't see any splash guard above it. I have that only under it (engine splash guard). Anyway, I always saw it clean of both diesel, or oil.
Are there original splash guards for the alternator on these cars sold separately?
Shield can be bought at dealers. Because a lot of alternators failed because oil was being dripped on it when topping oil up. Chrysler designed a clip on shield to try and stop these failures. Alternators fail quite often on the 300c though and i think yours in on its way out. Poss also causing some problems with lights but im not too sure about that.

Jack
Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Didn't know that Jack! This is my alternator below:



As I see it doesn't have that guard you mentioned, does it?

And what I don't like of course is its cord that is naked. The Chrysler's corrugated hose turned out to be very low quality and it was falling away into pieces just when I touched it about two years ago. The heat has destroyed it through time.



P.S. Forgot to tell you that I have 2.7L, not the Diesel :frown: But I suppose those guards should suite all engine's alternators?
 

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Just realised from the photos, yours looks like the petrol version. I was assuming it had the diesel engine. The shield only applied to the diesel version and if you have the petrol engine I have given you wrong information, sorry.

But the alternator comments still are correct, unless you can find and cure a faulty connection I suspect you will soon suffer an alternator failure.

The cable covering shouldn't cause you a problem unless the cable insulation is also crumbling away which I doubt. The outer sleeve is only there to try and protect the cable from physical damage.

The alternator looks very clean as though it has been changed recently ??
I wouldn't recommend your cleaning method of spraying the alternator then blasting it out with air. I think you will find the brush holders, brushes and slip rings in a bad state.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Understood brother! Yes, I agree with you that I should do some service to my alternator (e.g. clean its brushes), so I should take some time and find out how its removed from the engine. Suppose its normal as it has already done 103000 km.
 

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OK Jack, I have just monitored my voltage and I doesn't look so good to me!
It cycles between 13.8-13.7 all the time. If I step on the gas a little it first rises to 14.0 but then makes a drop to 13.5!
If I turn on all headlights and fog lights it cycles even between 13.7-13.6!
These voltages don't look too bad to me and are not inconsistent with a fully charged battery and a functioning alternator. Is it possible that the voltage regulator settings may differ slightly between petrol and diesel engines? I notice from the photos that the petrol engine alternator is physically quite different from that in the CRD.
 

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The charging voltage tends to be dependent upon the ambient temperature as measured by the ECM rather than the state of the battery. Charging systems now tend towards a constant voltage system. Although its the erratic nature of the reading that bothers me rather than the voltage level.

The voltage should not be as erratic as shown on the display with the sudden dips and increases.

Devilmaycare: I must admit I've had another look at videos again and I'm not sure sure now. It was just the changes on the first video that looked strange.

Jack
 
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