[Mackinback]

Had my front clip off this weekend for some work that needed to be done, so decided to swap in my projector fogs that I purchased awhile back.

A little backround, I've had a HID fog setup installed on the factory fog housing for a couple years now. This past winter they went out on me. My ballasts came loose and were banging around for awhile and eventually stopped working. Also, the fog light switch never really worked right since installing the HID setup (couldn't turn it off).

While taking out the old equipment, I found I had 1 busted bulb and that same side had some corrosion on the plug that goes into the original harness (maybe shorted out).

Plugged up the new stuff, which included new fog housings & HID bulb/harness. Using the old ballast's. Not working.. Checked the fuse and that's good. Pressed the foglight switch many times.

Now I remember reading at some point that using hid fog's messes with the switch. Is this true? I'd hate to have to start buying random parts. Though in this case I guess it would either be the harness or the ballasts.

As I'm sitting here I also wanted to add, my side markers were not working prior to taking the frond end off. So while swapping out the bulbs I found the housings were melted. How long ago that happened? I haven't a clue. But I was able to get the old bulbs out and swapped in new bulbs and they do indeed work, but this is with no fogs working. Now if you don't know, there is only 1 harness for both the side markers and fog lights.

Any thoughts?
Sorry for the long post. But I think I got everything covered.

MacK

 

[therealfleen]

Mack, just to clarify, you have the stock fog housing still? If so, then they are not projector lens? I wonder if the ballasts are bad? Are the wattages for the bulb and ballast the same? e.g. 35w bulbs w/35w ballasts? I've read that non-matching will last a shorter time, and really not give the intended Kelvin.

 

[Mackinback]

No, I swapped them out with a pair of projector housings.
I will have to check bulbs and ballasts this weekend, they were purchased from HIDGate back when. All I can remember about them at this time is they are the slim style ballasts.


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[Fisch]

I think the old school HIDGate slim ballasts only came in 35w. Not positive.

As far as the fogs not working with the switch and presuming the ballasts/bulbs are good, then could be the switch itself. They are famous for going bad on most of the early builds. And when they go bad, they cause all sorts of different lighting problems - from the dash to the headlights. Do you have the old-school style that has the independent fog button? If so, replacements don't cost much - although they don't make that style anymore (because that style goes bad of course!). The new style gets rid of the independent fog button, and you know just push the large headlight knob in to engage the fogs. Still plug and play - they whole assembly just pops straight out and has one plug on the back. Worth a look - honestly could be the issue.

The side marker issue could be related to the switch as well. Just throwing it out there.

Switch to some LED bulbs for the fogs anyways - they don't get hot like the halogen bulbs.

 

[Mackinback]

I think you might be on to something Fisch! I do have the old style, and I do recall after installing the original HID's the fog button became jazzy (would work here and there).. And as some point, stopped working. For my sake it was stuck in the ON position.

I'll look for a replacement first, seeing as some of the LED's inside have stopped working.. I'll still check my bulbs and ballasts too so I can confirm they are compatiable.

MacK

 

[Mackinback]

Hey again - I'm noticing a lot of assemblies on ebay only have 3 options for head lights.. Off - Parking - All.. I assume these are for the base models with no auto-lights?

 

[Diode Dynamics]

The Canbus system on the Chrysler vehicles is likely causing your issues. You can either add capacitors or switch to LEDs for an easier installation

Nick C.

 

[typan]

I've been using HID's in the fog lights for years with no problems. the only thing is I used Canbus HID ballasts & not the standard type HID ballast, capacitors or relay setup. If I was you I would test if you got 12volts coming out of the original harness wiring plug first and then work your way back like fuse, relay, body control module. Maybe when the original harness plug shorted out it may have blown something up stream.

 

[Mackinback]

Well I'm bringing back this thread.. I'm finally going to get the front off and wrap this up.
I have a set of fogs similar to this:
2005 2009 Chrysler 300C 5 7L Halo Projector Fog Light Clear Pair Set | eBay

I disabled the halos and I am not interested in them. But it turns out I will be needing H3 bulbs.
So, I am just going to swap out my old ballasts and harness with that, as I do not know what is bad. I did notice my sidemarker housings were melted, I assume that was because I did not use and kind of capacitors? I do not know if my set was 35w or 55w. But they did work for like 2 years (I was unable to turn them off via the fog light switch).

So here's where I stand. I purchased a newer style light switch as Fish was saying. I can push the button in for the fogs and the dashboard light lights up. So I think it is safe to assume everything with the system is functioning properly.
Now on to the ballasts and lights.. typan was talking about Canbus systems..
So I am looking for input on which kit to get... I was thinking the Sun 55w digital slim kit. 55w giving more light output.. Slim so I can fit them in the bumper.. Get the H3 bulb and match my 8 or 10k headlights.

Here's the kit list HID Ballast Line - Canbus HID Kits | XenonHIDs.com

What do you guys think about it? I don't know what this Digital logic tech is or why I would have to worry about flickering???

Lastly, the kits offer warning capacitors and anti-flicker relay harness'... Any of that? I thought the system had anti-flickering in it.. Weird..

Thanks again,
MacK

 

[Diode Dynamics]

Mack,

I would strongly advise against a 55 watt HID conversion kit. Especially in the fog light housings. You are greatly increasing the risk of heat related damage and putting your expensive factory electronics at risk. If you run a quality 35-watt HID conversion kit you will have plenty of output for your fog lights.

Make sure you use an HID relay to protect your factory electronics and prevent flickering

Feel free to send us a PM if you have any lighting related questions!

Nick C.

 

[Mackinback]

Thanks for the reply Nick C @ Diod Dynamics.
Ok, if you are saying there would be enough output with 35w, then I can go with that. Would I still need to get the capacitors to go along with it?
As stated in my 1st post, I did notice my side marker housings were melted some.. Will the capacitors prevent this? Or maybe the melting happened when the fogs shorted out? I was able to swap out the bulbs, considering the housings were deformed, and they have been working fine so far. So I feel my wiring is fine.

Thanks,
MacK

 

[therealfleen]

I'm running 35 w HID conversions in my fogs. No capacitor. The kit comes with a ballast tho. Been a year no issues.

 

[Mackinback]

Same housings I have therealfleen. What kit are you using? I got my original one from HIDGate some years ago. I had some missing parts this past winter, so everything inside the bumper got exposed to a ton of salt.. So I'm just going to replace it all.

 

[therealfleen]

Kensun I believe. Held up well.
Here is a better pic of the lights on.


There are pretty bright. I initially went with 50w but switched. As Nick pointed out: way too hot for me. Some here run em at 50w and have had no issues. 6000k to match headlights.

 

[Diode Dynamics]

Thanks for the reply Nick C @ Diod Dynamics.
Ok, if you are saying there would be enough output with 35w, then I can go with that. Would I still need to get the capacitors to go along with it?
As stated in my 1st post, I did notice my side marker housings were melted some.. Will the capacitors prevent this? Or maybe the melting happened when the fogs shorted out? I was able to swap out the bulbs, considering the housings were deformed, and they have been working fine so far. So I feel my wiring is fine.

Thanks,
MacK

MacK,

You will have plenty of output with a 35 watt HID conversion kit

Our kit comes with a heavy-duty waterproof relay that has a built in Can-Bus system to prevent any bulb out warning issues

The heat damage to your housings is due to the heat from your bulbs. Capacitors won't affect the heat generated by the bulbs.

Feel free to give us a call if you would like to know more: (314) 205-3033

We also have a great research section here on our site: Research

Thanks,
Nick C.

 

[therealfleen]

Next time I need lighting, I'm going with #diodedynamics

 

[Mackinback]

I appreciate the input NickC, but I wanted to clarify on the melted housings..
It was not the fog light housings that were melted. Those were fine the whole time. What melted were the side markers, which are pretty far from the fog lights. I thinking if was wiring.. Too much power or something?
Is it possible I can get 10k bulbs with my kit purchase? I'm trying to matchy headlights (10k currently), and h3 bulbs?
I will have to do a little more looking around our site when I'm on my home computer.


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[RDT]

I appreciate the input NickC, but I wanted to clarify on the melted housings..
It was not the fog light housings that were melted. Those were fine the whole time. What melted were the side markers, which are pretty far from the fog lights. I thinking if was wiring.. Too much power or something?
Is it possible I can get 10k bulbs with my kit purchase? I'm trying to matchy headlights (10k currently), and h3 bulbs?
I will have to do a little more looking around our site when I'm on my home computer.


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I have those projector fogs that you bought. The standard bulbs that came with them (halogen) melted the LED rings that came in them stock - so heat will be an issue with these lights. 2 other problems with them is that they are open in the back, and you will get water and dirt in them, requiring periodic cleaning. The other issue is that compared to the light output of the stock fog lights - these things suck! I'm using the halogen bulb that came in them, so maybe an HID would give better light, don't know.'m switching back to stock fogs soon.

 

[Diode Dynamics]

Putting HIDs in a fog light with angel eyes (halos) is a guaranteed to melt the halos FWIW.

I'm not entirely sure why your sidemarkers had an issue. HIDs wouldn't cause that, but putting an LED in your sidemarkers will generate less heat and prevent heat damage

Nick C.

 

[Mackinback]

I have those projector fogs that you bought. The standard bulbs that came with them (halogen) melted the LED rings that came in them stock - so heat will be an issue with these lights. 2 other problems with them is that they are open in the back, and you will get water and dirt in them, requiring periodic cleaning. The other issue is that compared to the light output of the stock fog lights - these things suck! I'm using the halogen bulb that came in them, so maybe an HID would give better light, don't know.'m switching back to stock fogs soon.

I know, I was kind of like 'what the....' when they arrived.. But I've had them installed for 6 months (just no power to them) and haven't had any problem with crud in them. I think I will be even better off when I finally get my brake vents back in and the front end finally buttoned up, which I plan on doing when I get the fogs working. I went ahead and invested in the plastic rivet gun, which I swear by verses those generic body clips.
I wonder why the output blows? I think the H3 bulb is kind of crappy all together, but that style of fog seems to be the only real option.


Nick @ Diode Dynamics- Do you sell a kit I can get? Or do I have to piece together one? Pretty much just looking for a h3 bulb in 8 or 10K (preferrably) with some kind of slim ballast.

MacK