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Discussion Starter #1
Time to change my tranny fluid again. Last time I had to do it at the dealer, but this time I want to do it myself. Dealer's invoice said "6.5 quarts" of oil was put in last time. Does this sound about right? Should I put the same amount in again? Since our cars don't have dipsticks, I have no way of knowing, and cross referencing the fluid level on their graduated stick taking into account the temperature sounds like way too much hassle.
 

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Do it your selfers must have the dip stick tool. Temp cross ref chart is not as critical as checking the level with the Miller 9336 tool. Just using common sense that hot tranns fluid expands. So measure fluid 30mm cold, 50 mm warm ,80 mm hot.This method is just like using a dip stick on any traditional transmission. Refill procedure if the pan is dropped is to add 7 quarts, then warm car and check level with 9336 dip stick and top of wih addtional fluid if needed.Use mopar ATF-4, or VALVOLINE ATF-4 the only approved after market fluid right now. Valvoline Also makes the only approved coolant ,Zerex G-05. Must be a deal Chrysler Has with Valvoline.
 

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For the NAG1 transmission - If only the fluid and filter were changed add 7 litres (7.4 qt).

If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was drained or replaced add 8.1 liters (17.1 pints).

I think if you're going to be doing this yourself it might be wise to invest in a Miller tool so you can accurately determine the ATF level.

This is from the Service manual:

EFFECTS OF INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid pressures to be low and develop slower than normal. If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing the same conditions occurring with a low level. In either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation, and varnish buildup which interferes with valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.

Bernie
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dou It your selfers must have the dip stick tool. Temp cross ref chart is not as critical as checking the level with the Miller 9336 tool. Just using common sense that hot tranns fluid expands. So measure fluid 30mm cold, 50 mm warm ,80 mm hot.This method is just like using a dip stick on any traditional transmission. Refill procedure if the pan is dropped is to add 7 quarts, then warm car and check level with 9336 dip stick and top of wih addtional fluid if needed.Use mopar ATF-4, or VALVOLINE ATF-4 the only approved after market fluid right now. Valvoline Also makes the only approved coolant ,Zerex G-05. Must be a deal Chrysler Has with Valvoline.
Amsoil's Tranny fluid states "compatible with Chrysler ATF+4". Is this ok to use, or should I go with the Valvoline? Is it synthetic?

For the NAG1 transmission - If only the fluid and filter were changed add 7 litres (7.4 qt).

If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was drained or replaced add 8.1 liters (17.1 pints).

I think if you're going to be doing this yourself it might be wise to invest in a Miller tool so you can accurately determine the ATF level.

This is from the Service manual:

EFFECTS OF INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid pressures to be low and develop slower than normal. If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing the same conditions occurring with a low level. In either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation, and varnish buildup which interferes with valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.

Bernie
Thanks Bernie. I'm doing the filter and the fluid, so 7 litres (7.4 qts) and then check. With the car idling in the garage for say, 5 minutes or so, would you consider that "warm" or "cold"?
 

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Here's what the Service Manual says...

CHECK OIL LEVEL
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
WARNING: Risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine running. Risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch hot or rotating parts.
3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling.
5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push the Oil Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out again, read off oil level, repeat if necessary.

TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3. Add following initial quantity of MoparT ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 7.0 L (7.4 qts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
b. If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 8.1 L (17.1 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC - NAG1/FLUID AND FILTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECK OIL LEVEL) and adjust as required.

FLUID/FILTER SERVICE
1. Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating temperature.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and retainers holding the oil pan to the transmission.
4. Remove the transmission oil pan and gasket from the transmission.
5. Remove the transmission oil filter and o-ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.
6. Clean the inside of the oil pan of any debris. Inspect the oil pan gasket and replace if necessary.
7. Install a new oil filter and o-ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.
8. Install the oil pan and gasket onto the transmission.
9. Install the oil pan bolts and retainers. Torque the bolts to 8 N·m (70 in.lbs.).
10. Lower the vehicle and add 7.0 L (7.4 qts.) of transmission fluid to the transmission.
11. Check the oil level (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC - NAG/FLUID AND FILTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECK OIL LEVEL).

Bernie
 

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Valvoline is the only one Chrysler approved right now. They also make the only approved coolant. Zerex G-05, this must be a deal that they have with Chrysler. Don't use any universal fluids which, say compatible. Valvoline ATF-4 is full synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's what the Service Manual says...

CHECK OIL LEVEL
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
WARNING: Risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine running. Risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch hot or rotating parts.
3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling.
5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push the Oil Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out again, read off oil level, repeat if necessary.

TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3. Add following initial quantity of MoparT ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 7.0 L (7.4 qts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
b. If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 8.1 L (17.1 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC - NAG1/FLUID AND FILTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECK OIL LEVEL) and adjust as required.

FLUID/FILTER SERVICE
1. Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating temperature.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and retainers holding the oil pan to the transmission.
4. Remove the transmission oil pan and gasket from the transmission.
5. Remove the transmission oil filter and o-ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.
6. Clean the inside of the oil pan of any debris. Inspect the oil pan gasket and replace if necessary.
7. Install a new oil filter and o-ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.
8. Install the oil pan and gasket onto the transmission.
9. Install the oil pan bolts and retainers. Torque the bolts to 8 N·m (70 in.lbs.).
10. Lower the vehicle and add 7.0 L (7.4 qts.) of transmission fluid to the transmission.
11. Check the oil level (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC - NAG/FLUID AND FILTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECK OIL LEVEL).

Bernie
Valvoline is the only one Chrysler approved right now. They also make the only approved coolant. Zerex G-05, this must be a deal that they have with Chrysler. Don't use any universal fluids which, say compatible. Valvoline ATF-4 is full synthetic.

Thanks guys.:grouphug:
 

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What is a miller tool and what does it look like? Thanks. Mike
It's a special tool used to check the oil level in the 5-Speed auto transmission. The transmission does not have a dipstick.

Bernie
 

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Where do you add transmission fluid? I want to top mine off before I take it in for the o-ring service (just as a precaution - seems it's been low for a while...). The only thing I could find says "dealer only" - it's a small tube which is bent 90 degrees for the last few inches, then capped.

Does anyone know where I add the tranny fluid?
 

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Where do you add transmission fluid? I want to top mine off before I take it in for the o-ring service (just as a precaution - seems it's been low for a while...). The only thing I could find says "dealer only" - it's a small tube which is bent 90 degrees for the last few inches, then capped.

Does anyone know where I add the tranny fluid?
just stumbled upon this thread... seems your question went unanswered... yes, that is the spot to add transmission fluid. it's very small, so u can use a funnel to fill without spilling.

debating on doing the flush myself and just reading up on it...
 

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just out of curiosity, how many tics are on your car's clocker?
(how many miles on the odometer? )that you need to change the tranny fluid already....?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
just out of curiosity, how many tics are on your car's clocker?
(how many miles on the odometer? )that you need to change the tranny fluid already....?
I like that...."tics on the clocker"....can I use it?

I finally did the change myself. The first time I did it, the car had 46,000 or so of your miles (75,000 kms or so). I now have 92,000 miles (147,000 kms) on the car, so it was time, imho, to do that bit of preventive maintenance. I fashioned my own dip stick and took a reading of the car cold, marked it off, then drove to my buddy's shop. Took another reading of it hot and marked that off (this was the dealer's fill from the 1st flush). The shop manual says to remove the 5 torque bolts and 1 10mm bolt holding the pan. What the manual forgot to say was that there is the tranny supporting brace over 2 of those bolts, so I had to get creative with a jewler's pliers and a torque bit.

In the end, it was a simple matter (after getting the bolts behind the brace). I swaped the filter, bolted it back up to 71 in-lb and filled it with the 6 quarts the shop manual says. Ran the car and took out my dyi dipstick and took a reading, comparing it to the marks I put there. I was bang on.

So in the end, it wasn't a chore (except for those freagin torque bolts) and with the syntetic stuff I put in, I'll be good for a long time.

Sorry, I forgot my camera, so I don't have any pics
 

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Heres what I did, I bought a Cry933 transmission fluid gauge, Look it up on google shopping youll find em for aroung 50$ I have a slow leak so it was at 30 on the Gauge, Then I took it to the dealer to check it, they checked it for free I had a few quarts of tranny fluid for them (ATF +4) to add if needed. I then drove it home after they added what was needed and left it running in the drive way on a level surface, Then I checked it with the dipstick I bought again and scribed a line on the reverse side so I know where to fill it next time.
 
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