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First off, several stellar "how tos" on the fog lights here. Check them out. Maybe my post will add a bit to the great list of information on the fogs.

Fog light replacements from a Jeep Grand Cherokee, with projector lenses off ebay $24-30
70mm halo rings off ebay $10 (buy 4 so you have backups just in case)
RTV clear sealant $7
Various wire taps and butt joints
Electrical tape
Gorilla tape
Zip ties
Chrome spray paint for halo rings
Some kind of HID conversion kit with H3 6000K 35 watt bulbs and ballasts. I used Kensun brand off Amazon. $70. Very happy with them and great customer service.

Note: I initially bought 55watts and after installing them, they ran too hot for me so I swapped them out for 35watts. The 55watts were definitely brighter though.

Razor blades
Philips screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
Crimping pliers
20 gauge wire
10mm socket
7mm socket
trim tool
Torx (star tip) screw driver T20
Jack or ramps
Jack stands

Step 1
Get front end up in the air and put in jack stands, set parking brake, etc.

Step 2
Remove underside covers: 1) below oil pan, and 2) the one connected to the front fascia/bumper. You will need your 10mm and 7mm and Philips screwdriver to remove all this.

Step 3
Unplug stock fogs and remove housings using your T screwdriver.

Step 4
Take your new fogs and disassemble them. This will take some gently finagling. Remove the two screws hold the bulb housing and gently tug on this to get it out. You will then need to remove the ring that holds the existing halo ring by turning it sideways and pulling on it until it pops out of the outer housing.

After the ring is removed, take out the existing halo ring.

Step 5
Prep your 70 mm rings by putting a couple of coats of chrome pain on them. No need to tape off the me: when the paint dries, you can flake off the paint very easily. (Thanks for the tip, Fisch.) Use a heat gun to speed up drying time.

Take ring from aftermarket (AF) fogs and clean out the inside where the halo ring was and get your clear RTV sealant ready.

Once the paint is dry, test fit the 70mm ring into the housing prior to sealant. I had to trim a bit of the "lip" off on the inside of the halo ring housing - used an razor blade.

Apply RTV and seat 70mm ring with wire running out the back of housing.

Repeat on second unit.

Add butt joints to all wires on the 70mm ring.

Let this dry, preferable overnight.:sleeping: But a few hours will work.

Test your halo rings throughout this process and be careful to not pull to hard on the the halo wires; there's not much connection to them. I just test them on the negative and positive posts under the hood.

Step 6

Remove the H3 light bulbs from packaging.. you will note that the bulbs actually fit into the AF bulb housing rather well. Test fit and then secure with the screw provided.

My HID kit came with with rubber grommet that easily slide down the wires and replaced the metal cap that covered the bulb housing. I used RTV sealant to secure this grommet and water proof the housing.

Be careful to not touch the bulb or projector lens in the housing.

I taped the two metal parts of the bulb housing together with electrical tape. This will help when you put all the guts back in the outer fog housing.

Step 7
So now it gets a little tight getting this all back together. You need to carefully put the halo ring back in the AF housing first, then zip tip it up to where the mounting screws go to hold the metal bulb housing in place.

Once both sides are zip tied, you can start working the bulb housing in. I used some needle nose pliers to help hold the halo housing in place and then to pull the clips up over the bulb housing. It will work, just be diligent. This was the best way I knew to get this back together rather then cutting the front lens off of the outer housing.

I suggest adding heat shrinking to the halo wires coming out the bottom of the fog housing to protect the wires from the heat generated by the H3 bulbs; it's more heat than the halogen bulb for sure.

When its done, it should look like this:

I completely covered the back of the halos with electrical tape to seal them. I did this to hopefully keep the water out. This is what killed my first set of halos. The inside dries out quickly, but I wanted to eliminate all water in there. I didn't snap a pic of this but don't be dutch on the tape. I also put some RTV sealant around the tape where the halo wires came out.

Step 8
Mounting the ballasts are next. You do not need any relays or anti-flicker or resistors for this; it's plug and play.

Stock halogen fog plug -----> ballast female plug-----> two male plugs coming out of ballast----->into two female H3 plugs.

I mounted the ballast on the drivers side to the outer plastic rim of the headlight housing. I used a self-tap screw. The ballast is suspended in the air by a bracket:

Laying under the car, looking up, on the driver's side:

Please NOTE:
For some reason, I needed to flip the stock plug in the ballast. The lights didn't work with them plugged in the original way. It's like the hot and grounds where switched on the kit. After I did this they worked fine. I used electrical tap to seal them up.

The passenger's side ballast I mounted to the bottom of the washer fluid tank. There is some plastic flange piece you can screw it into to suspend it in the air. No pic of this. I taped most connections good as it gets pretty wet in there. Unfortunately, it's tight on that side of the car due to the tank, so I got lazy and didn't attach it up to the headlight, but you could do that....

Zip tie wires together, up outta the way where ever you can.

Step 9
Insert the fog housing into the fog openings and push them as far back as they can go. Make sure the halo wires are toward the ground. You will need to maybe cut a slot in the tape from sealing the halos backs, for the mounting screws to fit through. Tighten them down with the T20.

Plug in your ballasts to the car and the H3 bulbs and give it a test.

Step 10
There are several ways to hook up the halo rings. I already had wiring run for my headlight halos so I just tapped into this wire. I have them run to a hot lead--under the hood positive jumper post-and then to a switch in the car. I can turn all six halos on without other lights on. Some run halos to the parking lights but remember the parking lights will be on then with the halos. A wireless remote would be the optimum option though.

You can wire-tap into just about any lead and ground but be mindful of when power is to it. I will most likely move mine to a power source that isn't always on, rather driven by the ignition being on. That's for another day tho.

Don't forget to reinstall the two bottom covers!

Enjoy, Randy :D
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