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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This also will be submitted to the Tech section... but first again here. I would like to thank Aaron for another opportunity to work out an install pictorial with their top-notch HIDs. So here goes...


Installation of 6000K HID Fog Lights (H10 equivalent)
from Stealth Auto, Inc.,
into a 2007 Magnum SRT8


The package arrived by FedEx, a box labeled DDM in an over-pack. It looks so much like the package for their 9006-equivalent HIDs I didn't bother taking a picture of it.

Inside the over-pack were: two Capacitor assemblies

Inside the DDM box were:
No instructions (doesnt matter now that you have this)
Two 35W Ballast assemblies with connected 35W Ignitors
Two H10-equivalent HID assemblies with moisture seals and auxiliary power cords (both of which aren't needed)
Two ceramic-coated capacitors with OEM-like power couplings, one female and the other male.
One zip-lock baggie with
two foam core double-sided adhesive pads, (white/yellow). I could use one more of these for good measure)
and misc. small white cable ties

Here's the ballasts and ignitors:


Here's the way the lights come packaged with the other power cord and moisture seal:


After pulling the power cord OUT of the rubber seal, you can use it for whatever you want. You won't need it for this install!




The Magnum SRT8 Conversion Project, from Halogen fog bulbs to 35W 6000K HID Fogs:
Does it take gearhead skill/experience? NO!
Should you read these instructions? YES… Of course!!
If I can do it… so can you!!


Getting Started:
Layout the hardware, as in the image above and be sure
that you have everything, and know what each piece is. Throughout this install ensure that you never touch the halogen, or HID bulb glass with your fingers! I wore some latex rubber gloves (blue).

Removing the HID bulbs from their hard plastic protective enclosures is much easier than with the HID headlight bulbs because there is no thick power connector to go through the plastic base (IF you pull out the power cord before hand).

Carefully put the car up on some ramps so you have room to manuveur underneath. Set the parking brake once you've positioned the car, For extra security, place a chock behind the rear tires.

This is what my Magnum SRT8 looked like with 6000k HIDs, but regular halogen fogs. Now you know WHY I wanted to do this mod! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Remove the engine pan (or at least the front two bolts) and the fascia skirt…
Removing the entire engine pan is up to you. This can be done easily without removing the pan and only removing the fascia skirt.

For those that have never done this, the engine pan is held on with 4 10mm bolts, and the fascia skirt is held by seven 8mm bolts and a total of six plastic pop pins. To remove the pop pins pry up the center pin with a regular flathead screw dirver and you will be able to pull the push pin assembly out. Again, I did not take pictures of this because it is fairly self evident once you're under the front of the car.

NOTE: You do NOT have to remove the push-pin in the fascia under the brake vents. This pin holds a separate directional piece of the vent to the fascia skirt. If you do remove the pin, you will have to figure out how to position the vent piece upon reassembly.

Ok, here's how the driver's side fog looks after removal of the fascia skirt. Plenty of room in there.


I used a microfiber towel to wipe dust off the surface of the fascia underneath that orange sticker, and also from the steel bumper strips above the fog light. This was my pre-planning for positioning the ballast, ignitor and capacitor. You can see in the image than the installed position of the halogen bulb is with the right-angle base facing directly left.

The same is true for the passenger side fog, although it's a bit more crowded over there because of the windshield washer fluid reservoir.



Compare the H10 bulb with the HID bulb... to note the correct position of the "wings" relative to the insulated HID electrode. The HID doesn't have a right-angle base, so you much recognize which way to orient the HID insulator so that the "wings" are lined up for proper insertion back into the fog housing.


Some have reported problems with an O-ring that was too fat to allow for proper seating in the fog housing. In the picture above, the O-rings look identical and I did not have any problems. If I had, it is a simple matter to use the O-ring from the OEM bulb and toss the one that is too thick. Once you have the bulb inserted and turn 1/4 turn clockwise to seat in the housing, you're ready to install the ballast, ignitor and capacitor.

One thing you MUST remember with these bulbs, the first power connection between the male OEM connector and the femail OEM-like connector of the capacitor MUST BE REVERSED, unless you choose to rewire the capacitor connector. In other words, plug the two connectors together so that the safetly clip does not engage the clasp. If you do not reverse this connection you risk severe;u overheating the capacitor and creating a mini-explosion in fairly short order once the HIDs fire-up.

Here's the finished install on the driver's side. I used one of the cable ties to hold the OEM wire loosely to the hood release cable well above the capacitor (and out of the picture).


Time will tell whether the foam adhesive pads will hold, or let go. I'm hoping for a long-term hold. I didn't take a picture of the passenger side install because of the obstacles presented by the brake vent piece and the reservoir. But suffice it to say that it's not too difficult to get both hands up there (and I'm not a particularly small guy) and position the ballast, ignitor and capacitor is the same fashion as shown for the driver's side.

Reassemble the fascia skirt and engine pan and get ready to enjoy a bright future with matching HID headlights and HID fogs.



Ok... I think I'm done... If there are any errors, I'll try to catch them tomorrow. So... comment away!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Goofy, how did the tape hold up?
Assume you're talking about the adhesive foam tape that is supposed to hold the ballast, ignitor and capacitors to whatever you stick them.

I haven't been "under" the car since installation so I can't see what's happened to the fog items, but I haven't "heard" anything banging away under there.

On the other hand, for the low beams the ballasts still are in place on the wheel wells, but the ignitors and capacitors have fallen to a place of equilibrium down near the horizontal frame members of their respective areas. I "think" in those cases, some "automotive tape" similar to what is used for the 300C spoilers, etc., would do the job nicely. But with no problems other than they didn't "hang" in there... I've really no incentive to "fix" that asthetic of the low-beam install.
 

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Thanks for taking the time to write this up. It makes the whole process a lot easier to understand. When I saw pictures of the kits with the extra wires I figured there would be more to it and shied away. Now I'm looking for a kit. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks... I just did the fogs on our 300C as well. There's a new "kick" in the kit now... "HID Decoders" instead of the ceramic capacitors. Works the same way. Still have to reverse the power connection or rewire the first coupling, but otherwise. It's plug and play.
 

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Still have to reverse the power connection or rewire the first coupling, but otherwise. It's plug and play.
For the "non-electrically inclined", what exactly does that mean? How do you reverse the connection when it comes to a male/female connection?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
For the "non-electrically inclined", what exactly does that mean? How do you reverse the connection when it comes to a male/female connection?

Thanks
Although the pictures below are from my HID install of headlamps to the MSRT8 the initial power connections look the same for the fogs. When you disconnect the OEM bulb... the light gray connector coming from the car's electrical system will look like this...


The connection, itself is not "keyed" for the connecting prongs... only the security clip of the outer jacket provides a "key" so to speak.

This is the female plug on the "HID Decoder" (formerly a white ceramic capacitor) into which the above power connector goes... note the "tab" on the top side for the outer security clip of the other plug...


But the prong orientation is universal, i.e., it doesn't care whether you put the two plugs together so that the security tab mates with the security clip, or vice versa.

That's what I mean by reversing the connection. Push them together so that the security clip is on the other side from the security tab. That's the easiest way to do it. The water-proofing gasket (orange) on the male plug will prevent the connection from parting.

For those electrically inclined, one or the other (I suggest the HID Decoder) connector can be rewired so that the security clip and tab can be mated. For this one would have to pull the wires out of the connector and reinsert them in the opposite slot. Easy to do, but totally unnecessary in my opinion.
 

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Thanks for the info update...Makes more sense now.
 
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